92_rugby_subie

Continues looking better everytime I check on it good work! If I had my 04 STI in aspen white with some mods... Id be good to go with a 2 inch lift... but sadly that day is not yet here and I drive the ol' EA82 another day....

Calipers were taken off the hub, not fully removed, but Im sure air got in them somehow... fluid was icky anyway.... Hopefully I get to fix him tomorrow, but until then I get to drive around in a girly SWP WRX Black and purple wheels with an "Import Sweethearts" Sticker on the windshield FTW Thanks for your help guys! I appreciate it, scared to death about another surprise repair

Thanks for the quick reply! Should I keep the engine running while I do it? It was super stiff before I started the car, then, it softened up quite noticeably.

After a scary situation on the highway (high speeds + braking quickly with warped rotors) I decided that the axles, wheel bearings, and rotors should be done. My diagnosis was as follows: -high speed braking caused wheel shaking -- WARPED ROTORS -when passing obstructions (cars, buildings, fences etc) heard rattling while rolling and in gear driving -- WHEEL BEARINGS -axle boot on right side was torn apart, grease everywhere and speed matched thunking when compression breaking -- AXLE Parts list: 2 low mileage (basically new) axles from marcusgl10z28 (thanks, I appreciate it) 2 new centric rotors ($8.99 each) 4 new 6207 2RS C3 bearings from McGuire bearings (12.97 each) Got the car up, removed the wheels and tore apart the brake stuff.... pads had lots of cracks and a chunk fell off... hmm, NEW PADS (nice little $40 surprise right there... Tore down more, removed axles, hammered out the bearings and put the new bearings in... Parts list addition: Brake fluid Wagner thermoquiet brake pads (supposedly "WORLDS BEST" -- from the TV show) $29.99 so why not. Tried prying the axle through the hub... axle nut flys off end... Oh crap, I stripped axle... Luckily no, just the castle nut... TO THE YARD... Got 5 axle nuts, all in great shape (just in case) and a few cone washers to compare lips. Didn't wanna risk it, so I used Milesfox's video and hammered with a block of wood until the axle was 90% through and started reassembly. First the DS tie-rod end stripped out (kept turning with the nut and wouldn't allow me to tighten it (bummer, those had just been replaced less than a year ago) -- so Ned sat like this for a day... Another Parts addition: DS Tie Rod End (outer) -- $15 and a day using the parents truck ($15 in gas) Got that part, got it together WHOOT WHOOT... Then the same thing happened on the other side (why didn't I think that would happen) Last parts addition (I hope) PS Tie Rod End (outer) -- $15 and another day of using the parents truck ($15 in gas) Ned is back on the ground after I bled the brakes a bit up front until clear fluid came out (question on end) and drove him around the block... Ick... I prefer the WRX... but I love my little car... Thanks for sticking through this (at least I included pics) here are my questions: I just bled the front brakes, and since the car was on jackstands my helper (girlfriend) refused to get in the car and just pushed on the brake pedal with her hand as I bled them. The brake pedal now goes to the floor with pressure, and the car stops... but not like I want it to... how do I tighten that up more... or is that ANOTHER surprise broken part (master cylinder Id presume)... If I need to bleed it more... should I do a FULL bleed (all four wheels) or is just the two fronts okay? Can I do it on the ground somehow so the car isn't on jackstands (girlfriend less sketched out) Thanks, 92_Rugby_Subie and Ned

Been doing a lot of meets in the Portland area with Ned since I got my license back, also gone through several sets of wheels trying to find out what I like best since I chose not to do the 5lug swap yet... Think the AA wheels in black will be my best bet, everyone seemed to like them, Ned is too tame looking now... but he hangs with the WRX/STIs with no issues... also gets to bark louder than most of them... One from the Clackamas meet: As for what Ive done... Im more likely ABOUT to do a major overhaul on the front... ordered Centric Discs for $8 a piece... those arrived and are ready for install picked up a set of the ThermoQuiet brake pads picking up 2 used but new front axles picked up (4) 6207 2RS C3 bearings for $12/each to solve my wheel bearing issue Gonna be tearing it down

Still going strong? Im about to take my EA82 into my friend who does alignment and hes done 1000s of alignments but this is his first on an EA82 and I told him I want to lose the wear on the rear tires after I lower it (although the idea of a stanced ea82 is funny, Id never be allowed in a Subaru group again)

Amazing build so far! Are you by chance on the FB group called PNW Subaru Enthusiasts? I feel like Ive heard of this swap going on a few times when discussing old gen stuff on there...

Yes Jonas, I saw that... LOL As for getting the nut off, your best bet has already been stated... I would try first with a 1/2 breaker bar and a pipe, if you cant get it (which you should at that point) then I would do as 175eya said, Ive used that trick once only I used it on a downhill and put it in reverse. If you are on soft ground it may not work, so put a board or a rock down where it will make contact... If you don't wanna do that, you could stand on it... Make sure to use a good socket... 2 broken sockets later, I found out that the axle nut is on TIGHT and I should have used a 12.99 socket, not a 2.99 socket X2.

Bump -- want to order wheel bearings shortly... Sealed bearings this time (just did wheel bearings 15K ago and already rattling and need replacement) Which sealed bearings are best? Is there REALLY a difference?

Thanks for having this issue! I did wheel bearings on my car not too long ago, but I hear them rattling, thinking I will be going with a 6207 SEALED bearing this time, maybe I didn't pack them enough... who knows. Thinking of having Les Schwab use a press to stick them in, I know my friend works there, so he could probably press them in after hours no problem... need a new axle and new brakes anyway... Is there a particular sealed bearing I should use? 6207 RS, but theres lots ranging from $8 to $21 dollars... whats the difference and is it REALLY worth the difference?

Helped the girlfriend do her wheels on her 2013... Just plasti-dipped the wheels black and then over the black plasti-dip on the centercaps did purple... added a nice touch. Yo-beezy, Im a hovercraft? Finished! Up-close: Then I had fun with the plasti-dip on Ned... I wanna spray a few parts black but for sure I wanted to try this... Id like to introduce Mr. Angry Eyes... Headlights on:

Thank you! I do love him a lot... Everytime I look at him Im like "Nah, cant sell him" At Albertsons today a guy was taking pics... said he'd give me a grand to sell him... Ugh, I hate money. Hes got a bad DS headgasket... for the last 30K miles hehe... Leaks oil on start-up and I can hear the coolant bubble when I shut him off... but they aren't mixing and the coolant doesn't really disappear... itll be low after about 4 months but takes maybe a half a container to fill it. The oil also leaks from the valve covers and probably the rear of the engine as well... easy fixes. I have an SPFI engine that will get the carb manifold (higher compression) soon to fix the headgasket problem. 175EYA - nice looking sedan! I love these EA82 sedans... 10x more than the wagons for sure. I need a new axle... mines bad for sure... clicks and knocks on accel, clutch braking, turns... still drive it like I stole it though... PS. I want your trunk.

Done a lot to Ned recently (I guess you could say) Each time it gets harder and harder to think that I may not keep him for long -- the GF got a 2013 SWP WRX and makes me really wanna pursue (one) of my many dream Subarus... a 2004/2005 STI wagon in Aspen White. I gave him an oil change... to slow the leaks I switched to Valvoline 10w-40 synthetic blend Gave him a bath because I followed a Mercedes that was leaking something (blue/gray smoke all down the highway) and when I got home I had greasy splatter EVERYWHERE... decided it had to go. (*Also note I don't have the AA wheels anymore... hoping to switch back soon as I do miss the black look already) On that note... Non-Pug lugs seem to be going strong... stock ones backed off almost immediately after I swapped them, but these upgraded acorn ones from Autozone have held tight for over 1000 miles already Started him up yesterday after the oil change, oil pressure was higher... but knew that would happen because of the thicker oil... but gauges still look normal to me... Unfortunately I started him today and got the TOD until he was fully warmed up Can also see I swapped to the LEDs... but I think 2 aren't working correctly as it doesn't even look like they are illuminated... I used the correct bulbs, but oh well, could be worse. Its all love... hopefully Ill find a better job in a few months that will allow me to keep Ned and get a newer wagon... (although he wont be an STi swap plan... he will likely be a camping rig -- 2" lift, 15" wheels, semi-aggressive tires, roof basket, offroad bumpers and lights... but not be a beater still... we will see... I do love my little Ned...

Do you have an Ikea near you? Some people use their cutting boards... maybe search nasioc for a how-to on it... but they cut them and all that Did the search for you: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=28098641 More intensive searching may be necessary

I know of a set of WRX headlights for 02/03 from a local Subaru group Im on... he may ship them (brand new bulbs too) and they are SUPER nice... Ill see if I cant get him on here. Other option is JDM lights off Ebay or Morettes (super expensive though)

Would you do that in car? Like zero-ing them out, just leave the plastic cover off until its all connected and then start the car and if the gauges dont read then adjust them? or just when you put the needles back on you just hold it up-right and see if they read at zero?

I will have to take a look at this tomorrow, hopefully it all goes well or it has to go back together unmodded so I can drive the car Tuesday

How do I remove the needles from my gauge cluster without breaking them? I dont want to use too much force...

+1 Agreed, mines kinda tucked up... I love starting it and watching people "casually" walking by it and looking under the car haha...

Just an update. Sikend667 came over on Sunday, and Ned fired right up.... kinda sucked, needed him to show the issues I was having... we BS'd for a bit then headed to the junkyard (painful experience as I saw the Legacy I put a lot of time/work/money into that was sold to be rebuilt for the daughter of the purchaser.... Anyway, found the PERFECT GL to take the fuel pump off of.. an 85/86 GL that had a "Support Your Local Hookers, PLAY RUGBY" sticker on it... (See my username) and took the fuel pump and some fusible links too... Got home, my fusible links were toast... so we put the newer/nicer ones in and still, Ned fired right up.... so we left it alone... next morning (Monday) I went to go to work and Ned ran, then died... and in a panic I grabbed the tools and used fuel pump and swapped it out... cleaned my hands, got a jumpstart (bad battery) and Ned fired up... and been running fine... as some can recall, I have the issue when hes cold, Monday night was a bit chilly, still fired right up... pretty confident that the fuel pump was the issue... I plan to drain the tank and get rid of the crap thats been collecting on the bottom so that it doesnt get into another fuel pump and muck with the reliability of little Ned. Thanks everyone for the helpful replies! I appreciate the board everyday

Bump - is Ned really the first EA82 to experience this?

I think this should be noted as well... Last night he died on me. I had to have my mom come give me a jump because I kept trying for a few minutes and the battery died. I charged the battery over night and hooked it all back up... as he was cranking, my rpm gauge was bouncing up and down as high as 1200 and back to zero and then rose when the engine kicked over. The RPMs rose up to 2000 and climbed for about a minute to about 2500, then the engine died and the symptoms of starting and then dying came back, finally after maybe 10 minutes of starting/dying and re-cranking, the battery died... Kinda worries me that I just had a brand new maxima alternator installed and less than a week later had a brand new Interstate battery installed, that 10 minutes of trying to restart the car killed the battery already... But the bouncing RPM gauge didn't ever seem to happen UNLESS he was having this issue. Heres the video of when he died on me awhile back... I also don't seem to have this issue until Im below half a tank, and I know the wiring for the fuel level sensor is messed up in the trunk (water damaged) but apparently those are not related (according to the shop)

Ned decided he didn't wanna start again... Took him to a shop 3 weeks ago, and they had him for two weeks with my phantom no start issue. He wouldn't die for the first few days, then he finally died, and they confirmed it was a fuel delivery issue. Then they needed to get my permission to run additional tests on him but I was at work. I called them back a few hours later and gave permission for him to be hooked up to a "scope test" which would pinpoint WHICH part of my fuel system had failed... Ned for over 10 days wouldn't die on them while hooked up to the scope test... So they dropped the additional fees and told me that he was running fine and to bring him back in when he died... They gave me a list of what was done: Notes: Isolated all subsystems to verify source of problem, but vehicle has started and ran as it should since. Verified that when cranking, RPM sensor sends message to PCM to activate fuel pump. Vehicle starts and the sensor is no longer involved (disconnected sensor and did not affect vehicle running) Problem could be: PCM Ignition Switch Pump Relay Fuel Pump Where should I start? My idea was to start with the ignition switch because I can remove the key while driving and turn it off with a screw driver ---- although the car requires the key in the ignition to start Where is the fuel pump relay located? I had read it was under the hood, and labeled, but mine was not labeled to my knowledge? Vehicle is a 1986 Subaru GL Sedan. 5 speed D/R. 190k miles on EA82 engine with weber carb minus emission systems/vac lines

Allied Armament/SOSFab wheels. 15" http://sosfab.com/Testimonials.html

Been awhile since anything on Ned. Began parting out the XT6, but then sold the 5 lug stuff to another member. Neds coming along great, hes had a mystery issue with fuel (sometimes he wont run) which he just got back from 2 weeks at a car hospital where they couldnt get him to mimic his symptoms more than once so they could run tests... So for now hes back in my possession and he got a treat for coming back. From this: To this (Thanks OBK25XT) And as he sits today (Thanks to P2THC) Im not worried about ground clearance... I dont want him lifted though. As soon as I can afford it, hes getting brand new 205/50/15s all the way around which are about the same overall size as my stockers were. Then Im looking into the Miata lowering modification and an RX body kit to finish the visuals (for now). For those wondering, the tires are 215/65/15 Bridgestone studless snowtires. They are about 26" and I do rub on turns and over hard bumps. I will get some ground clearance pictures in the morning and hopefully post them soon.