92_rugby_subie

Does it make that sound for just a few seconds...? Mine does the same thing (86 GL sedan) and my 92 Loyale & 85 DL did the same thing... I kinda figured it was the sound of the system turning off and expelling pressurized air... So unless you think you have a boa in your dashboard, I think its nothing to worry about, at least in my experience of 3 Subarus that have done that...

OOOOOO Got it, so while parked and on all 4 wheels I should try and move the tire in and out? Like just shake it back and forth and attempt to hear a clunk? If this clunk does happen, then I need to replace my struts?

Okay so to a near complete noob... I need to replace my strut and steering rack boot?

Alright I will try. There is a walmart just up the road.

So this has been a mystery issue with GD and I. He has torn the front end apart multiple times and hasnt seen anything. Ned, my 1986 Subaru GL 4WD has these symptoms: Uneven tire wear front right tire. Knocking when turning (very quiet once warm) Feels loose when driving and accelerating to the left (weight on that tire) When at full lock to the left, feels like the tire is flat (but its at 40psi) I know my steering wheel boot is torn on that side, but that is not the cause of everything. Tread is now eating into the wear line, and although Ill have new tires put on soon, I obviously dont want the new tires being eaten This could possibly be an alignment issue, but what about the noises and the full lock to the left thing...

Is anyone close to Portland Oregon that has access to a tire machine? I need to mount 15 inch tires on my Peugeot wheels, but Les Schwab wants to charge $108 and I dont have that. Maybe could work out a trade? I clean floors or something, or help you work on your Subie? I have some experience that I have learned from GD (that Im very thankful for) that could apply. Let me know, I could chip in a few bucks, but nowhere near what Les Schwab expects

Aww rat fink I think I will stick with my original plan to do it through a friend for $35 a wheel.

Schwab said 20-25 (per wheel) if they are steel, and 70-75 (per wheel) if they are aluminum... Please tell me my peugeots are steel... Heres a picture:

Well these wheels will have 15 inch tires when I have the money. But Imma call schwab.

Dont the EA82 wagons sit higher though? My friends EA82 sedan has wagon struts in the back and its lifted up, but thats the only lift that car has.

Ill have to get a closer look at these 50 series tires... Or 55. Just 60s seem sooo big.

Yea I will call them tomorrow and see what can be done. Im hoping to find a set of used 205-40-15s to put on them, at least for awhile, but I keep seeing 205-50(and up)-15 and I dont want rubbing issues lol

My only issue with Les Schwab is that I called to ask how much to switch my wheels over ( I have a different set of tires ) and they quoted me 118... I think thats a bit ridiculous for switching tires... and they wont let me keep my original tires...

Thats whats gonna happen here sometime when I have more money than bills again, I must refer to my tickets from that stupid mitsubishi

I plan to get them powder coated, but I was thinking I should remove the stickers and the old paint first... So I figured I might as well blast them, make them look perfect.

The other thing Replace the terminals that got bent and make sure they are tight... bad terminal connection could be an issue... they are about 3 bucks a piece ~ 6 bucks total.

Get a multimeter, put it on DC 20V and put the cables on the terminal (pos to pos/neg to neg) Check your battery voltage... When not running, the battery should have 12.5 volts, a little less wont hurt. Then have someone check the voltage while you crank the car to see how much it drops. Also, if it does start, test to make sure that you have power from your alternator (same process) when running, a healthy alternator should give over 14V to the battery (mine registers in at 13.5 but I have a sub and amp hooked up) The lights dimming tells me that the battery is running low unless your on the accelerator, which makes the alternator speed increase and thus charges your battery and you get better head lights. If everything checks out, it could be your starter. But I think youre right, battery or alternator.

The hard part is that I spent about 8-10 hours per wheel on the wagon wheels off my 84 GL wagon awhile ago, sanding them and washing them and drying them, then primering and finally painted them, and my garage got too cold and the paint cracked. So I was looking at just paying someone later on to get them done where they might warranty their work so I dont have to worry too much. Id have it done now if it werent for stupid tickets from that Mitsubishi:banghead: I wrecked :banghead: Mitsubishis Suck but we all know this Subaru --> <---Mitsubishi

Also I apologize if this is in the wrong area. I put it here because the wheels are Peugeot wheels (4X140) which is for the older gen Subaru.

So I have been looking for offers to paint my wheels super cheap, but done right Sandblast Primer Paint Clearcoat etc. I got a quote of $30 for all of this per wheel, and told him Id have to wait because I have no money currently, but he said that it would be cheaper if I didnt sandblast the wheels, and it would be better because in his 12 years of powdercoating, he has seen wheels just warp from sandblasting... What am I missing? Isnt sand blasting just high pressured sand? No water included...? So why will it warp the wheels... or is this just unheard of?

Im thinking I will get it. Could just be spark plugs and the coil pack. Sad thing is, he says hes received 20 - 30 emails on it, so if anyone is willing to raise their offers. I told him my offer was his asking price $300 cash. No more no less.. Not going to play the "oh craigslist is now an auction site" game.

Go with a dealer. They give you the metal separator plate, which doesnt crack..

Thank you so much for the responses. These seem like easy fixes! I will look at the radiator overflow because I dont want to learn headgaskets yet. From what I know, it should restart, but I have to wait until Wednesday to pick it up since hes outta down. Im allowed to go look at it, but the car is locked

PS I have searched: Legacy Motor Shake Motor Shakes Then Dies (apparently skipped the term "then") I did not come up with anything.

So I have first shot at this Legacy (according to the guy whos selling it) http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/2171815305.html $300... With an aftermarket stereo, looks clean, has different colored hood, but thats no big deal. 167k miles and has this issue: Starts and shakes (motor does) Will drive but shakes, especially when stopped at lights. Motor dies. He didnt say whether it will start right up afterwards. Gonna try and limp it about 5 miles home. My question: What is this? Valve adjustment needed? Timing is off...? What could it be? And how much am I looking to go into it. I figure with the low miles, and what other people sell them for, probably 1400-1600 here in Portland, and if I make only $500 thats fine with me, I will be able to put more money on my Daily driver.