92_rugby_subie

Neds still having fuel issues... trying to get him up and running but honestly puzzled with it

For anyone interested in an update: Still puzzled. Getting fuel the FIRST time... I had my fuel line off in a container and had my mom crank it, shot fuel into the cup pretty quickly ( right?) I put the car back together and started it up, he lived! up to 2500 rpms then died and wouldnt fire back over other than for about a half a second. I guess next test is to get under there with the volt meter and see if maybe the pump is running and then decides to stop running... Which could be fuel pump problem, but could it also be ECU related? Also, the gas dribbles that came out of the car yesterday (battery died, couldnt crank) were in a container in the engine bay... the gas turned into a gel... Trying to research, either something was added OR its diesel... :/

Well I pulled fuel line off, and it of course dribbled into the little cup I have for it... didnt see anything come out while cranking, but it cranked for about 2 seconds before the battery gave up... Its on the charger. I found a used SPFI and a used carb pump for $20 both off wrecked cars, but the "How to keep your subaru alive book" says the pumps outlive the cars Im hoping maybe a loose wire or something... but its been an issue for awhile that went away when I got the car back... Once battery charges, off to go crank away.

Pretty sure we have a winner... Wont even run now, but it doesnt smell like fuel after trying to crank it so much, so this leads to the belief that its not getting fuel. Doing some research on changing fuel pumps, checking them and also SPFI fuel pump vs carb fuel pump (could get my hands on either)

Bump... had to drive the Hyundai its so... quiet.

Do you do this by dumping it into the Carb? I was gonna ask if this might help my issue...

I don't know what fuse blew but Id assume it was that one. Car runs after warmed up but can't stay alive til then.... need to figure this out ASAp as its my transportation... I feel like this is a craptachi issue on a Weber some how... first winter its done this...

Answer, I blew a fuse... WONT be doing that again Car is running right now, no weird start up or anything... so guess we shall see, its probably warming up so it shouldnt do it anymore... Video is here: Shuts off at I think 2:15 and YES YOU CAN WATCH IN HD IF YOU WANT

Video will take apparently 10 minutes to upload... But I disconnected the choke wire to see if that changed it, and at first it didnt, then the RPM gauge got really haywire (bouncing up and down at 2-3K RPMs and then car died, tried to turn it over again, nothing. Connected the wire again, and STILL the same "no turn over" just cranking... So now I have gone from a car that wont idle to a car that wont start :cool: GRRRR... So new question, what did I do by disconnecting that? How do I fix it... and then we will get back to why it wont idle correctly.

Problem: Cant get the car to idle or warm up. Car: 1986 GL Sedan, EA82, 188K miles with Weber 32/36 DGEV. What happens: When starting the car, Ive always pumped the gas a few times, turned the key and the car fires up, and the RPMs rise to 1500-2000 and slowly rise (can get to 3000 RPMs in about 5 mins) and at about 3000, I tap the gas, RPM drops to 800ish and the car is just at the hash mark above the cold line temp wise... I let it idle a few more minutes, and then I drive off.. havent had an issue until now... Itll run up to about 1800 RPMs and then cut off and die... pump the gas, starts up and goes to 800 RPMs, idles for maybe 5 seconds then dies. Same story on next turn over (and the next and the next....) touch the gas during this time it just dies... everyone once in awhile itll go up higher, about to 1500 with the gas being pushed then die. I tried getting it to drive home after it finally would let me rev it with the gas pedal... about 1/3 of the way home, doing 45 it shudders and hitting the gas does nothing to help accelerate, put it in neutral and the engine just dies.... and you get to coast to a stop. Possible ideas I have/received: From GD: Electric choke could be malfunctioning/not working - How do I check this? Frozen fuel lines (since the car will run for a few minutes, maybe it doesnt continue getting sufficient fuel?) but this did happen before it got really cold out. I will be recording this process tomorrow morning and posting it in hopes that someone can help me figure this out...

I think definitely, as long as its a Subaru it should be allowed to go... but I agree with pushing it as an "Old gen" meet. I think Sporadically would be best too... maybe as often as monthly? or a few times a year, as Im sure the Old Generation population will grow. Think cruises too, everyone seems to love them...

As a member of several Facebook Subaru Enthusiast groups (PNW, SA, SV, ORAWD etc) I see a lot of meets coming and going. I also recommend this site to damn near every new member that has an issue with their Subaru or just wants to see what else is out there. There have been countless meets and greets where usually the Impreza/WRX/LGT etc overpower and dont even notice the old gen sitting there alone... Now its time to get back! I know there are several people out near Portland that would enjoy a meet and greet that was designed for us all to get together and talk about something other than whos BOV is louder... Lets figure out a good time and place. Probably weekends are better for everyone... Mornings? Mid mornings? Portland Members, when giving suggestions of meet places/times, please let me know if you want to invite the newer generation folks, we can keep it specific to just a few that know what a BRAT/GL/DL/GL-10 and Loyale are...

Hey Kevin. Its Marshall off PNW. I know what you mean about going to those meets and being the only old gen... I was going to go to Cars and Coffee but I worked until 12 the night before, got home at about 1 and so when 7am rolled around, I just shut the alarm off and thought "next time"

No press is needed, you can do it with the hub on the car but I find its a lot easier to remove the hub off the car so you arent trying to hammer a bearing back into the hub. You can use a press if you want to... But its rather easy honestly.

This is a USA Industries alternator from a 1985-1994 Maxima 3.0L V6. I think the specific one is supposed to be a 1986-1994, but this one appears to be doing its job just fine... I would honestly go with a 1986-1994 3.0L V6 Nissan Maxima. Theres a thread about it... search Nissan Maxima Alternator to get the thread... Rick (GeneralDisorder) did a fantastic job on the write-up and doing my conversion...

Well guys, went to GeneralDisorders shop Made it there with the bad alternator. Was toast. He did this: And Ned also shifts a ton better with Subaru Super S in the transmission!

Could it be the gap? When I first tried swapping to a maxima alternator the hole wasnt big enough, so I took wire cutters and cut the connection and opened it... do you think its been arcing in the cap on the wire connection?

When everything goes up. Must come down. Got a ride from my sister home last night... She leaves Ned... This morning took my moms truck to get insurance and my license reinstated, drove home () and then hop in Ned, let him warm up... I drive around town, getting my maxima alternator for tomorrows swap... Got stuck behind a truck doing 35 in a 45 I ALWAYS check my gauges, constantly... just for heat, oil pressure etc... Im very aware of my surroundings and what is going on with my cars, always have been, always will be... I noticed the gauge wasnt at 12V exactly... and my wipers on INT were kinda dragging themselves... Then about 20 mins later I notice Im well below the 12V mark about 1/2 way... I pull over immediately, get out, check, the belts a tad bit loose (texted GD) turns out cant be causing drop in volt cuz not that loose. Hop back in, shut off radio, heat, wipers etc and told Ned to get me home. He did. I check the alternator, 12.3V with engine running (FFFFFFUUUUUU) and no electronics on. So I take a look at the alternator and see the rubber boot is cracked and basically came off in my hand to reveal this: So for those that stuck along to read my story... thanks... If you skipped... What happened? Why has he been doing fine for so long then all of this happened? Hoping the solution is: Get a new wire for that section (replace it basically) and get a new alternator (MAXIMA ALTERNATOR FTW) and have no issues?

Looking pretty kickass at the moment! Did you get those Euro corner markers?

Year, Model? Also, from what Ive heard in doing HIDs... 35W and 55W isnt much different... but 55W *could* fry your wiring... Hence why I stuck with 35W... much cheaper as well.

Gonna be purchasing another cluster, just in case I dont do it right (the sanding) I wont end up having an inoperable car (at least not accurately operable) I have the LEDs and a slight modification planned, hopefully will be doing this within the next week (gotta have the new cluster sent to me)

Glad its home! I bet your butt dyno already says "EA82s aint got nothin on this ish" lol

If you search GeneralDisorders original post, he does have some pictures in the posting.... Im 99% sure the maxima alternator was first done on his EA81 Hatch.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2954641/1982-subaru-gl/