biggreen96

Good news. This company in Connecticut has 2 left! I just bought a couple from them @ 90$ http://www.curvedglassdist.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=2D067D80AC584DB386AFDFEDC11A65BD

Dang. I got excited when I found this thread but no go for the wkt 499 trim pieces at Jegs anymore. Has anyone replaced a windshield and found these moldings lately? In black or chrome?

The wiper stopped wipin', I can't hear any relay click when I hit the switch so I thought I'd look for that first. Is it under the dash somewhere or do I need to look in the trunk area? Does anyone have a good wiring diagram/FSM for 88-89? Thanks!

Just put the BRZ radiator in. It was really easy. Just needed to drill new lower holes, and slot the upper support. You can reuse the lower rubber bumpers too. Haven't got it running yet, needed to order the upper inline filler neck.

Go for it. No problems there.

Right on thank you! I was hoping you would chime in, you have some knowledge! I am amped to get a bit more torque, but I'm saving my 93 Sport Sedan ej22 turbo motor for something else. Some would say that's Subaru's best block they ever made! Slapping the 97 heads on to the ej25 would certainly be doable since I'd be doing the HGs too of course. Do you suggest the head swap for the ease of reusing the 97 exhaust? I do have access to a wrecked 02 Forester that still has all it's drivetrain and exhaust. So I'm not opposed to using the dualport ej25 exhaust manifold if dropping the whole ej25 longblock is "plug and play". EGR wont match since the 97 ej22 is a manual trans car, and all ej25 have EGR IIRC?

A few years back I did a lifted 89 GL and put a 1997 Impreza 2.2 engine and 5mt into it. Engine is knocking now and compression is low on a couple cyls. Being that it's has a 97 2.2, I should be able to put a ej25 in there without much trouble. I'm having trouble clearly finding the answer to which years are the best "easy" swaps. I'm not concerned with HG issues or anything, it's just a fun car, non-daily. 1997–1999 EJ25D plugs right in? Maybe some slight rewiring/repining of connectors? 98 - 05 EJ251 is a map based engine and needs the Ej22 intake manifold and cam sprockets? I know this is the 34,254th thread about this but sorting through them all is I appreciate any insights.

Thanks for those pics chux!

So last week I drove 300 miles for the weekend to help put a 4'' Allied Armament kit on a friends ea82 wagon, but the tires had not got shipped to him yet.. now that they have arrived they rub in the back (27'' grabbers!) I wish I was in Seattle still to give him a hand... What is different between a 4'' and 6'' in the back end of a ea82? Has anybody had this issue and trimmed to make it not rub? Dont mind the damage, thats been bashed away but I guess it's rubbing both sides on the body here.

I'd crawl under there myself but the car is 300 miles away and far from my buddies house at a garage. Helping a friend lift his wagon, and I need to make a couple lift blocks for the trans. It's got a EJ trans so I'm loooking for the hole spacing of the rear most xt6 crossmember piece.

Hey Skylar did this setup with the 195/75-14s and strut blocks rub at all?

So I went about wiring in the fuel temp sensor just now and.... There is no pin on the ecu plug to wire it to. A quick search confirms my year impreza donor does have the sensor on the fuel pump assembly(I actually have it here on the bench), but it isn't actually wired in. Cool. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-7578.html Same deal with the Fuel pressure sensor. Sooooo find a 97 impreza ecu. PN# 22611ac830 (or ac831, there are 3 pn's for this ecu, ac400 expects the sensors to be present I believe) I have not got the car running yet so I'm not 100% percent sure. BUT there are no wires in the harness for these sensors.

Standing here looking at the car and the engine bay I had an idea. Why not just wire the fuel temp sensor up and drop it into the windshield wash bottle? Seems like it would stay the same temp as the fuel in just about every situation. Especially in seattle where it's never super hot or cold. The pressure sensor could be tricked by being put into some sort of canister than you squeeze slightly to have it register some pressure. But I'd love to see resistors work too. I'll leave you to it then

I'm curious about getting the fuel codes sorted too. I see in my FSM for the 97 2.2 i have in the car that the ecu wants to see 2.3 -2.7 volts for the temp sensor and 2.5-3.8 for the fuel tank pressure. I have never wired resistors into anything so I'm unsure of what to do. But it seems like it would be easy just to wire one in to change 12v into 2.6 volts(if that is possible) and that would satisfy the ecu for both sensors.

We plan to lift it sooner than later so we can deal with the tight fit for a lil bit longer. Thanks!