suberdave

if you look around not many manual tranys use 80/90 any more. quite a few FWD and some RWD tranys are going to ATF -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

sorry i have been going thorough hell trying to get the right motors for the rear. i have taken them back and gotten a new set. but keep getting the wrong ones. i have the front motors in and working properly but not the rears. but i love the way it rides. with it on the softest setting it rides almost the same as stock, then with it on the hardest setting it corners like it is on rails. looking forward to next spring, im going to take it and do some auto-X. but i a word "AWESOME" -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

sounds like you need to swap you XT to AWD. you will have all the parts you need. i hope they are both 5sp's that would be awesome -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

the XT uses a serp. belt and the GL uses a V-belt. but as long as you take all the accs. this should work fine. and the wiring on the XT intake manifold is much longer than that on the GL. also check the connectors on the intake to body wiring harness. make sure they are the same, IE: both round, one round one squair, one black one white... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i have 80's nissan wheels and the off set is just about right. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

remote starts are very easy to install. but i would caution you not to if your wagon is a manual. if left in gear it could start and drive off on you.( <=== this = No good) but easy enough to do... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

im going to guess you did you test in this order: #2, #4, #1, #3, and you did not unplug your cold start valve. as you did the test every time you turned you ign. from off to start. the cold start valve shot a little fuel into the cyl's. thus washing down the cyl. walls a bit with fuel and alowing som compression by the rings. this is why you should unplug the cold start valve. i bet if you would have checked #2 again at the end it would have been lower. you may have no problems... my thoughts, take them for what they are worth... about $0.02. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

one of the biggest problems with the twin turbo, is no one can find a good wiring diagram for it. the twin turbo setup has a mess of solonoides and relays for the turbos to switch from one to the other. and without knowing the wiring it will be a PITA. however minus the whole turbo mess. that is a very easy swap. i have done 2 EJ20G swaps into EA cars. not bad at all. most is plug and play minus the wiring. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

here is a video of a leaf blower on a civic and a GMC sanoma. it did add HP http://videos.streetfire.net/video/ab544e3b-5dff-416d-9cfd-a1ad23ca9564.htm -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

this is the pump i have used on both of my WRX swaps. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WALBRO-255-LPH-GSL-392-EXTERNAL-INLINE-FUEL-PUMP-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQihZ011QQitemZ320043574591QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

sounds like a lot of work for "a few more MPG" and you can buy a lot of gas for $2400. like a 1000 gallons. thats good for 25000-30000 miles. just my $0.02 -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i need a justy hub. a friend of mine has one with a striped hub (right front i beleave, but sould be the same as the left)... let me know what you can do... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

let me tell you it is worth the money to find the right stuff. if you can afford the EJ20 converson you should be able to afford the right brake upgrade to keep you alive. i have an EJ20 in my 88 wagon and did the WRX front rotors and calapers with the XT6 rear rotors with 200SX calapers. it is worth the extra $150-$200 to make the car stop as well as it goes. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com P.S. why are there no prices on that webpage with the brake convereson stuff?

+alot -=Suberdave=-

+11-D-Billion -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

the adapter plate would work. but if you are going to run a 240+ HP EJ20 you may want to go with the EJ trans. i think the EJ will distroy any EA trans. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

sorry all my stuff is for a gl/loyal. :-\ -=Suberdave=-

i think that only counts as one question... i say go for the 2.2l swap if you are looking to gane power. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

just to conferm it is a legacy or a loyal? your name may make one think it would be a loyal but you said legacy. if so i didnt know that tht legacy had air ride. if it is a loyal i think i could come up with some springs and top hats front and rear for you. say $75 shipped to cali. if thats what you need. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

i just turned over 10K on my EJ20G swaped wagon. i have not had a single problem. i havent even put new spark plugs in it yet. (need to do that soon). i love it couldn't be more happy. best thing i have done for my little silver wagon. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

with the high comp. MPFI engine you will eather need to turn boost down (witch may be hard. since the wastgate is at 6.5-7 PSI with no controler) or remove the turbo, or just run stock boost and run high octain fuel and hope for the best. if you go with removing the turbo, shoot me a PM. i have a spider intake from a N/A MPFI XT. should be plug and play. then you will just need to have a custom peace fitted to go from the up pipe to the down pipe, to take place of the turbo. i could be wrong but i dont see why your turbo ECU would care if there was no turbo. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

yes but it is very easy to make the turn signal cancel switch work with the new wheel. i have a 96 JDM WRX wheel on my car and had to make it work. you just have to drill 2 holes in the coller around the shaft. 180* at 12:00 and 6:00. then press some small role pins (pull the ones out of your stock wheel) into the holes. make sure they are stright and it works perfict -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

true just use the inner cup from the diff and then mate it to your GL axels. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

that gives me chills. thats some ugly stuff. i hate to see a rust spot the size of a dime. but thats just nasty. i hope you have all your shots before you work on that thing... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

thay make this really cool tool. it pulls a vacuume on the whole cooling system so there is no air in it. then you hook a hose up to it and it pulls the coolant into the system. no air bubbles ever. here is one from Mac tools. but you can fine them elsewhere https://www.mactools.com/portal/site/mactools/menuitem.6c9db894a3743751f735c110f070c3a0/?vgnextoid=fdd183c3ee04d010VgnVCM100000426fa8c0RCRD&vgnextchannel=231221e5315fc010VgnVCM100000104d840aRCRD&vgnextfmt=default i wont do a cooling system repair without mine... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com