suberdave

last time i went i bought 2 rear struts, frist off the lady asked me what they were. i told her they were struts, then she charged me 21.50ea for the struts and another 10.50ea for the springs. again, would you want me pulling a strut apart in the yard? someone is going to get hurt... i tryed telling her that the strut was an asmbily and the spring was from a car with shocks that the spring was seperate. i told her i have bought many struts before there. and she said "sorry prices are changing, we dont like it eather" i would have just left but i realy needed struts that day. and they were adjustable. i think sometimes it depends on who is checking you out... -=Suberdave=-

same one i got for my swap... havent had any problems with it. but its kinda noise. -=Suberdave=-

i dont think it will matter. but make sure that all the tires are the same size. if you buy one 170 then buy 4. -=Suberdave=-

someone set something up and ill show up i can. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

been there done that, and im only 20 min from you... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

you guys are making this way over complacated. heres is how you do it... pull your 3.9:1 D/R and diff... i will pull my 3.7:1 D/R trans and diff... no put it in your car or truck and drive north... and i will do the same but drive south... we now swap tran's and diff's... revise process... done. -=Suberdave=- PM me if interested.

here is my A-piller pod -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

body kit front sides and rear (has to be cut) and grill -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

if you can get it to work it wont be easy. the Loyale ECU controls the cruse, if you go EJ you wont have the Loyale ECU. you will have to find a doner car that also has cruse and try to build a hybred cruse system. the Loyale uses a vacuume system on the gas pedal to control the cruse, the EJ system dose not. not impossable but would not be real easy. my doner car did not have cruse control, so my GL-10 now has no cruse. but i had to swap out gas pedals and everything, so i had nothing to work with. -=Suberdave=-

i am pretty sure i have a few around. i will look later. pay me shipping and they are yours. -=Suberdave=-

i live about 25 min north of Tacoma, and have an 87 with 3in' BYB kit on it. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i would guess... yes...

like this these ones are sitting on the side of my house. -=Suberdave=-

i wouldnt even mess with it if it has 300K on the clock. you can find them with less miles for only a few more $$$ -=Suberdave=-

where about in wasington are you? i live just south of Seattle. maybe we could talk subaru some time. lets see. for an intake you can find a "spider intake" from an XT. witch makes it easer to plumb up an intercooler. many people are puttint TD04 Turbos from a WRX on the EA-82. you can up the boost on the stock turbo with a manual boost controler (dont go over about 9-10 PSI). a Turbo from a Turbo Legacy will bolt right to the up pipe but you will need a WRX down pipe. you can use a APC from a turbo Saab (boost controler & other fun stuff). for a sand rail you should look into finding a 3.9:1 Duel range trany and diff -=Suberdave=-

more info on your setup? are you using the stock ECU or standalone? Megasquirt? are you using the mass air flow sensor? stock Turbo? -=Suberdave=-

might have better luck in the retrofitting forum. but here here is some pics from my swap. EJ20G into 1.8T. http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/glwrxt/ you will need lots more then just the engine. like the whole wiring harniss. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

these are the races they are used to connect the WRX inner cups to the GL shaft they go insid the Green cup good luck on a FMIC, could be done but would not be easy. not a lot of room up there. i got all the dash gauges to work except the tach, had to use an autometer. O-Darn! and i installed a Boost guage, A/F ratio gauge, and a water temp gauge. and most importantly... it drives AWESOME!!!! i love it, a GL that can get out of its own way... could deffently use some suspension upgrades, a bit more body role than i would like. even with XT6 sway bar up front and GL-10 wagon bar in rear. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

ok first off. dont even start till you have the engine and trans. the EJ trans are much stronger than the EA trans, and they still brake when not drivin right. look around and find a front clip (with rear susp. and diff) or a recked WRX. that way you have everything you need. i would not go with a stand alone. i would use the stock ECU. much easer and you know it works. the engine, trans. and diff just about bolt right up (make sure you start with a turbo car or find a turbo cross member) for the rear diff you will need to shorten the drive shaft 55mm and you will need to buy custom converson races to adapt the WRX inner joint to the GL shaft. these cost me $6 ea. the trans you will need to find a 88ish XT6 3pc cross member use the front and rear from the XT6 and the center from the WRX, this way everything bolts up and looks stock. the shifter linkage needs to be shortened, one of the only parts that need to be welded. the WRX raidator will fit, just needs a little triming on the core support. but not much and some custom lower mounts. (dont try to use the GL rad) now use the front suspension from the WRX. struts, knuckles, hubs (now you have 5 lug) lower ball joint, tierod ends, and BRAKES, (larger rotors cross drilled if wanted, and two pot calipers) look around and find some XT6 rear hubs and stuff for the rear 5 lug stuff. the wireing is the hardest part, but with a little patiance you can do it. just find a wiring diagram and dont drink anything that will make it harder. follow it like a road map and its not to hard. Now go and play!!! any more ?'s send me a PM or post it here. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

Done, now your turn -=Suberdave=-

Only death will keep me from WCSS8... and maybe???? no only death. -=Suberdave=-

how do you have your fan connected? is it set to run whenever the engine is running? just connected to key on power and grounded at the fan? if so you need to put a diode in your power line, what happendes is when you shut the key off, the fan stoppes being a fan and turnes into a generator. when the fan stops turnning then the engine will stop running. just an idea, had this happen on one of my GL's and seen it many times on cars at work. as far as fuel milage. that could depend on many things. tire pressure dirty air cleaner, dirty injectors, need a tune up? i did a EJ20T in my GL-10 and it gets just over 20MPG i think thats awesome. but i guess i shouldnt even compair it to a EJ22... -=Suberdave=-

here is my wheel... its a nardi torino wheel from a 96 JDM STI... -=Suberdave=-

although i love my GL-10 seats. i beleave the RX seats have better support. and are much more comfortable. i just put RX seats in one of my wagons and now i wish i could find another set in the right color. -=Suberdave=-

i would not use the EA radiator on an EJ engine. i used a WRX radiator on my EJ20G swap. took a little work to get it into the stock location, but well worth it. i have always had overheating problems with my EA engines, (even with brand new 2 core radiators) when pulling a long hill or something. with the EJ radiator i have never seen the gauge go over half way. and i have put it under many heavy loads and worked it hard. i say spend the time and fit the EJ radiator to the EJ engine. this will be the best for dependability and reliability. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com