suberdave

shouldnt matter. i just put a EJ20G (DOHC) into my EA wagon. and it fits like it should be in there. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/glwrxt

this happened to me when i first put a D/R in my auto car. i thought i had the wrong gear ratio diff. so i got a different rear diff. it was then worse. i just drve the crap out of it. (trans was under warrenty) and it was all good. trans had been sitting for years. maybe something just needed to be loosened up. this was 4 years ago, havent had any prob since. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

look at the MAF's one is a door flaper style and the other is a hot wire. also look where the engine connects to the body there are 2 plugs they could both be round, or one could be squair. i beleve this will tell the two apart. -=Suberdave=-

got the clutch and acc pedals in today, drove it back and forth in the driveway, (no rear axels yet) ordered my rear converson races, will have then on thursday, and i will be done....... untill the next thing needs to be updated or mod'ed (is that a word) O-Yeah i need exhaust also. but that can wate. it sounds good with just the down pipe. -=Suberdave=-

inner DOJ"S wont fit. tryed that. the gl axels are 23 spline and the impreza axels are 22 at the CV race. and i tryed 91 turbo legacy stub shafts. right spline count but the stub that goes into the clutch pack for the LSD is smaller. so that wont work. right now i am trying to get some custom CV races made so i can convert to a hybread GL WRX axel. and i will see about the boost, i will start out at stock and see how that goes. then we may go from there. car is already 5 lug. xt6 stuff in rear and WRX stuff in front. with 17in DRAG D4's on it

well i was going to wate till it was done to post this. but i see others talking about it. so i want to let everyone know it has been done. started working on it 12-10-05 1996 JDM WRX EJ20G into a 1988 GL10 Wagon the car runs awesome. starts up first try. have not driven it yet but no codes as of yet. all i have left to do is the clutch pedal (will get that done tomorrow) and the rear axles. have to do some custom work there. or find a 4.111:1 rear diff that will mate up to the GL axels. (possable legacy) PICS HERE ======> www.suberdave.com/subaru/glwrxt

here is my lifted turbo rig. "VADER" 3in BYB lift, 28in wildcat EXT's nissan wheels with 6 lug conv. and killer snorkle. More Pics at www.suberdave.com

hose from the compression housing or to the wastgate may have a hole in it or may not be connected tight, make sure hoses are not holy and make sure you have clamps on all of them. add my $0.02 now you have $0.04

just got a set of turbo legecy stub shafts. turns out the clutch stub is just smaller in diamater than the WRX. so i will have to find a new way to mate the WRX diff.

what he said

thats what im doing to my wagon in the spring

bolts right up but you will have to find the ever hard to find stub axels from a 1991 turbo legacy, i went to the dealer to find some, $225.00 ea and only one in the country. look for a set used. but will fit.

front barring is a set, seal barring spacer barring seal }||=||{ maybe my drawing will help, they say a picture is worth a thousand words. but i dont have time to write a thousand words

what kind of EJ20 are you going to use. are you going to get a JDM engine or are you you going to spring for a USDM model? what year. where are you going to get this beast? hope you dont mind me pokeing around... maybe i can help with some stuff...

if you need a turbo. ill sell you one for $20. i have i think 3 you can pick the best one. but you have to come and pick it out/up. i live in covington, wa about 15-20 miles from seattle PM me for directions if wanted.

to my knowledge you are right with the XT6 but no 3.9 was ever in the FTDR in the RX they were all 3.7, and we never got a DR in any EJ and none are lockable, just FTAWD. rule of thumb is if its turbo it got 3.7:1 if it was N/A it was 3.9:1

if it pluges into the ECU you need it, if it is not pluged in to the ECU cut it out and through it in a pile. use a good wiring diagram and do some pondering before you start to hack it up. its not as hard as you may think it would be.

i have lots of the stuff that you would need. XT6 AWD trans w/ diff lock and 3.9:1 ratio trans shift linkage matching 3.9:1 diff solonoides and switch for diff lock drive shaft trans cross member (its a parts from a couple different cars but should work) i even have the covited XT6 flywheel and clutch kit (used of corse) looking to get $350 for it all. but shipping would kill.

your thinking to hard. check your fuse, each light is fused seperatly, and even with the fuse blown it will get a small amount of voltage from the other bulb, this is why if you pull the other bulb the p/s light will go out. ~check your pasanger side head light fuse~ just an idea!

why would you want to, it would be so underpowered, you wouldnt know what to do. just find a new ej25 and use that, or go with a ej20 or something. just my $0.02

i could be wrong. but i am almost sure that the TT only came with an auto trany. but it should mate right up to any EJ 5sp. so you would have to find one of those also.

i havent had this happen but i can tell you its called a strut rod. not a tie rod thingy.

sorry no diff lock. not all RX's with 3.7 D/R's had diff lock.

i have a 3.7:1 RX D/R trany. its in my lifted rig. i wish i had the 3.9 for the lower gears and much lower low range. not to hyjack. but its up for trade if someone can find me a 3.9:1 D/R

AWESOME!!!!! thats only a mile from my house. i will be there.