suberdave

i dont think that had anything to do with your noise. the wire is the right part, its not any more sturdy than that. i dont think i have a car with both of them on it, the last time i pulled my engine i only had one, i know when i put the clutch in i put both on it. so it must have fallen off. i think once it is in the car, even if they both fell out it would still work.

i say even if its 2wd, if you can get a good deal on it, buy it. i dont think $800 is to much, i have payed $500 for cars that didnt run and needed towed home. then just convert it to AWD, parts can be found easy enough. but i would "NEVER" lift an RX. if you want a lifted rig. buy a wagon or sadan. RX's are hard to find and awesome.

car looks awesome. but something has to be done with that front bumper. how dose the megasquit run? what ver. is it? MS-I or MS-II?

i have used DURABAK, awesome product. you can roll it on or use an undercoating gun and spray it on. next summer i will be doing the whole outside of my lifted wagon. and if you have holes, dont worrie about them. just put some tape or something on the back side and spray over it. as long as they are not to large.

good luck on #25 and #26. i had to install new ones on my lifted wagon. no way to get them out with out pulling the trans apart, (that i could tell). ended up using the trusty ol' hack saw on an old trans that was no good. got the bushings out that way

if this is something you are interesed in doing i have a pile of parts you may be interested in, Pedel box center consol (with diff lock switch) parking brake handle clutch cable shift lever and some related hardware say $50.00 + shipping takes it all youll need a trans but this will get you on your way.

couldnt you just send the ea-82 flywheel to the shop and tell them to mechine it to XT-6 step spec. whoud this not work?

its not the TPS, its the idle stop switch, yeah its part of the TPS but if you unplug it it will work just find. had that problem on one of my turbo wagons. it has been unpluged for about 4 years now with no problem. the ilde stop switch dropes the idle down when it is less than 15%. the ecu is thinking that the throtle is closed. because the stop switch is shorted. but the rpms are running up. so it cuts fuel at 2500rpm. it is the connector that comes off of the TPS. three wires. black white and red. if it is the same thing i had, this will fix it.

as far as i know the 4eat only came in turbo wagons and XT's, it is an electronic shifting trans, so to transplant one in to a car with a 3at you would also need the Trans computer and wireing. dont think it would be an easy job.

i would just start looking fot a new trans

i have a set of wagon wagon wheels that are already painted Bronze. ill take a pic, mabey they are something you will want to pick up for say... $50.00

i have had 4 jdm engines now. if you can go up to lynwood and take a look at the engines at FOREIGN ENGINES,INC, thats where i got mine. if you go there you can pick the one that you want. the last one i had delivered, looked like it had been sitting in a bucket of salt. so i had to send it back and get a new one. if i would have went and gotten it myself i could have had it running a day sooner. but i say GO JDM!

another thing to do other than opening the TB is to pull the fuel pump fuse. with the fuel spraying every time the ign is turned on. the fuel can wash down the cyl's and cause a low comp ratio. this could be likely if the first 2 cys's are the ones at 100psi and the last 2 are at 60psi. pull all plugs. hold the TB open pull the Fuel/IGN fuse that will give you your best ratio. thought i would give you my $0.02.

video worked. looks like fun

no more discount, dont work there anymore. i went for the Ebay discount, found the belt kit (both belts, 2 tensioners, and an ilder) for $75.00 shipped. they wanted $30 just for the ilder

on the way to work friday, my car left me on the side of the road, so my wife had to come take me to work. and my friend AAA took my car home. it sounded like a timeing belt, but i had just replaced them less than 10k ago. well i did a compression test 25psi in the left bank and 130psi in the right. pulled the front covor and found this... i think its broke. so i ordered a new timeing belt kit. new idler 2 new tensioners, and 2 belts.

here is an awesome deal on a belt kit, i called napa and they want $160.00 for this kit, here it is $75.00 shipped. i ordered one paied on wednesday night and had the kit at my door on friday afternoon. awesome deal, i bought two kits just in case...

i wired my check engine light to my low brake fluid light so it would come on then go out when the engine was started, the light was always on if i didnt do something, and tape over the bulb dose not pass smog. car ran awesome and blew close to 0 out the pipe. so smog wasn't a problem. just my $.02

arnt your XT and your Wagon both turbo cars? if you want to turbo a n/a engine, you would have to use just the block, and then use the heads and intake from a turbo car. unless it alredy has duel port MPFI heads. as far as i know almost all N/a motors were SPFI, and i think its very hard to turbo that fuel system. just my $0.02

i am working on that for my wagon right now. i have one done, but the other is not done yet. i guess you beat me to it... looks good!

i have a bubble balncer that will work, i live in Covington, WA. just a few mins from renton, i could balance them for you

hey Jibs, i could put it on my server, i want to see it, if you can email it to me ill put it up david@suberdave.com

if the car has been sitting for a while. it could be lifters with no oil, or sticky valves, probably sticking open. if it has not been sitting but you just did lots of work to it, thin im not sure, but remember the only things you need to make a engine run are: compression, fuel, and fire. hope this helps

i know its not an XT6 TB but it is bigger and using a plate like this you could put any TB on a spider I finally got my GM 2.2l Ecotec throttle body on my spider intake. It’s about ¼ inch larger bore and it has an idle air controller for MS&EDIS Here is the spacer plate that my little brother cut for me on a waterjet. This is what it looks like all put together. Now I just need to get my MS&EDIS so I can use the IAC. And I guess it has to be in the car before it will work….

i know you just did head gaskets, did you check the heads for flatness? did you do both gaskets or just one? maybe you still have some air stuck in the system somewhere? what came first: the overheat or the bad head gaskets? maybe you had an overheat prob first and that caused the HG's? just a few ideas, hope they help.