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suberdave

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Everything posted by suberdave

  1. i have a company that i use called Wurth. they are awesome for that kind of stuff. and everything else i need...
  2. yeah the delux will plug into the IP and show the lock applied to the diff. if you already have the stock controls. you can cut off the big black knob and put the stock controls. he has a how to on dccdpro.com
  3. I bought my DCCDpro used for way cheeper than i could get the stock computer. and it only takes 5 wires to make it work. two to the diff, one ign power, one ground, and one to the TPS. took about 20 mins to make it all work. the stock computer would take that long just to look at the wiring...
  4. mounted the G sensor right next to the parking brake. center of the car, best place for it IMO.
  5. well it will work. hoever i had to drop the rear diff 1/4in. its a close call between the shaft and the tunnel. i dont have any pics of it in the car, but here is a pic of the old and new shaft. reason for doing a one peice shaft, is the 4EAT shaft i got from a wreking yard had a bad joint. it also had a qustianable carrier bearing.
  6. well i had the day off today, i got the DCCD working on my 6 speed. i think its the only GL-10 in the word with a working DCCD... works awesome. i can totaly tell the differance when it is turned up or down... i have STI roll switc on the way but for now it just has a big black knob.
  7. very nice. i definitly approve. looks like a whole new car, thr lights in the front grill is about the only thing that gives it away... glad you like the car, you have certanly made it much better, and added some much needed love...
  8. what do you want pics of? that is all i took during the install...
  9. no clearance issues, it was tight getting it in, but it is fine now that it is all bolted in... as far as rear diff. right now it has a turbo leg R160, but i have the R180 and i am working with rockfordcv to make me some conversion races so i can run it. i bought a DCCDpro automoatic controller, seemed to be the best and simplest. yes its JDM 2003, i love the gears, they are all a little closer but the 6th is a little higher, use to cruse @ 60 in 5th at 3200rpm now cruse @60 in 6th at 2700rpm. the gearing has given the car a little more spunk, not slower in the least bit.
  10. lets see... Brembos: dont know about that, have the welwoods in front and have a set of Vented EJ brakes for the rear. Bigger Turbo: have a VF37 twin scroll in the basement. EJ257: also have one of those in the basement, working on cams and compression issues. as for the DCCD, yes it has DCCD, the controler is in the mail.
  11. front section: XT6 mid and rear sections: STI however in an 85 the trans tunnel is not as wide, so you will have to cut and modify the rear section. but the bolt holes are there.
  12. Well i did it dont know if it has ever been done yet... but i now have a 2003 Ver8 STI 6 speed in my 1988 GL-10 Wagon... Works real well behind the EJ20G, i love it. still has one noise i have to find, and i need a LHD shifter asm. the RHD shifter asm is way to the right of center... O-yeah i also have to get the shift boot to look stock...
  13. i am using the stock WRX 5 blade fan, in front of the rad. it will not fit behind it. i tossed out the 4 blade fan. cuz i dont have A/C. if you keep the A/C core this maybe hard. it will bearly fit between the rad and the FMIC. -=Suberdave=-
  14. sounds like you are makeing some good progress... please keep us updated... you think the EJ22t rad is huge. i just put a KOYO rad in my car. i had to move the FMIC out an inch and cut more of the core support for that beast to fit... let me know if you need anything... -=Suberdave=-
  15. Welbro makes an inline pump that will bolt up with little mods. but 255lph may be a bit more than you need right now... -=Suberdave=-
  16. for front caster on my wagon i used some Acura bushings and that pushed the strut rod out and now i run +2.5* of caster... i love the way it handles... the only problem is when i set the caster that far +, the lower control arms hit the XT6 sway bar. however i love the way it handles even with no front sway bar... i will try putting a smaller one on it to see if that hits...
  17. funny you ask, right now i have the XT6 rear and none in the front. i added some front caster and it made the XT6 front rub on the lower control arms. so i pulled it. but i like the way it handles with out it... so we will see...
  18. 1988 Subaru Turbo Wagon (Built 100% by Suberdave) EJ20G from 96 WRX (45K miles at time of swap, 35K since swap) WRX 4.111:1 Trans w/ LSD R160 Rear diff ViPEC ECU Modded 780cc STI Side feed Injectors 05 STI Ignition Coil mod APS Blow Off Valve Blitz Electronic Boost control Regulator 5 lug swap (front: WRX rear: XT6) Welwood 4pot front calipers w/ 12” rotors XT6 rear disk brakes Nissan 200sx rear calipers (Rear parking brake) Tein Flex coilovers w/ EDFC (from 2005+ Legacy) 17" wheels w/ 205/40/R17 tires 255Lph Welbro Fuel Pump XT6 Mirrors RX body kit Full custom 3” turbo back exhaust eBay down-pipe and flex up-pipe Godspeed FMIC XT6 sway bars (24mm) front and rear HKS turbo timer Nardi Torino steering wheel Momo titanium shift knob
  19. well got back on the dyno today after some more work on my car. i was maxxing out the STI 540cc injectors. so i got a set modded by witch hunter that are flowing 780cc. now my injector duty cycle is only 65-70% where it was 113-125% I also replaced all of my vacuume and PCV hoses. (had a hard rubber line going to the fuel reg. and it was leaking under boost, so i just replaced them all). yes the chart is uncorrected but that is how it goes... the boost on the dyno read ~17.5, but on both pulls my Blitz boost controller read 1.13hKpa and the ViPEC read 213Kpa. witch means i will go with the two that read the same. witch puts boost at 16.38ish... Link to larger graph!!! -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com
  20. are you in Auburn WA? if so i have a 3.7:1 DR Turbo trans i would sale for $100. it works just fine, grinds in 2nd if you go above 6000RPM when you shift... -=Suberdave=-
  21. you can make the mounting work. just swap out the rear diff cover. the bigger prob. is the axels. you will have to use the rear axels from the car that the diff came from. the Loyale has stub shafts and the legacy dose not.
  22. if you look closely in the one pic, the side of the brat says "The Paint Shop" so im gonna guess its a custom paint job... but looks good. Nice looking "Pick-Ups" -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com
  23. nice find. i was hopeing someone would get this and keep it nice, and not beat it... when you get done playing with that EA82T, send that car up to my house so i can put a EJ20G or EJ207 swap into it and really make it a fun car to drive... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com
  24. if this is true. i have never found it... can someone give more info? -=Suberdave=-
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