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Hi, I have a 96 Outback automatic with what apparently is some kind of 3rd party radiator. The dealership parts guy swore up and down that they never installed that kind of radiator in a Subaru before. It has a bleeder plug with a square head...does anybody else have a radiator with an protruding bleeder plug with a square head ('protruding' meaning that when 'screwed in' the head protrudes rather than evenly recessed in the socket) ? Also...the plastic core housing got a nice long vertical crack which started leaking...I put in a small bottle of Bar's stop leak (the gross brown 'tobacco juice' stuff) and lo and behold...it plugged the leak alright. So far so good...I'm just concerned that that additive might jam up the water pump....I'll post an update to report if it really is going to keep the 'finger in the dyke'. --Damien

not if the temp drops...then the water comes out of solution....check out the 'Startron' site for a nice demonstration of that. I think that stuff works really well...I can tell just by using my right foot and examining the exhaust fumes. Think about it...if a mass of plutonium the size of your fist can waste an entire city in a few seconds imagine what a couple ounces of Startron stuff can do for your pet reptile. --Damien

I highly recommend 'Startron' for ethanol fuels that become laden with water. (That along with Shell gas.) It's somewhat expensive -- approximately $10 (but good for 3 fillups in my Outback.) Eye ain't lion. --Damien

*shaking head* Ye have little faith...

well alright...you did give me a couple of pieces of useful knowledge...thanks! Cheers! --Damien

on second thought...there is some true binding issues with this trans. But I don't think it's very severe....it does lurch and 'pulse' somewhat on a sharp turn from a full stop. Is that such a symptom? --Damien

well it's not torque bind then. When I first got the vehicle it had about 143,000 miles on it. One day the transmission light started flashing on startup. I checked the fluid and it was fairly dirty and low so acting on a tip I topped it off with Lucas stuff. After a couple hundred miles of driving the flashing light went away altogether. Then, when I had the chance I basically flushed the tranny (by drain fill X 4) and used name brand ATF that presumably was quality stuff. Since then, I've been refreshing the ATF every 7-10,000 miles. The original 2.5L engine blew a gasket completely around 175,000 miles so I had a 2.2 put in. It has nearly 225,000 miles on it now. The 'thud' problem has been with the tranny since maybe around mile 200,000... Now recently my steering rack started squealing so I flushed the fluid and now the squealing has gone away. But not long after that the 'thud' problem basically went away also. My 'mechanical intuition' told me that perhaps there was a connection between those two components that affected each other in non-obvious ways (I'm thinking similar vibrational emissions as a result of the fact that both use the same fluid in their respective operations). The fact that the rack ATF was so old and dirty (and perhaps of very different composition altogether than the trans. ATF) perhaps caused a kind of mismatch that lead to some sort of unforeseen mechanical load resulting in the transmission problem. --Damien

Could be water in the tank due to phase separation...the ethanol in fuel these days can't hold all the water when the temp drops...you must add either more pure ethanol or hope for warmer weather... An enzyme fuel additive may help as well. Right now I'm trying out 'Star-tron'...I'll try to give you people an honest scientific assessment after all the data has been collected (or I run out of Federal funding)... :-) --Damien

Some people think it's just TV and medieval myths...but Kitt was deadly...and Karr was deadlier. Something to shiver about... --Damien

I had a similar problem in my 96 outback...very similar symptoms w/ some stalling...it honestly seemed to have something to do with the cooling system...try bleeding air from the radiator or perhaps adjusting mixture. In the colder months I would recommend less water and more glycol (anti-freeze). HTH, Damien

well the 'torque bind' symptom in my case was a loud 'thud' I would get after shifting from D to P or N or D...and I'm pretty sure it had something to do with the Duty 'C' solenoid which (I'm told) plays a key role in regulating pressure on the rear clutch pack in the 4EAT. Rumor had it that one of the electrical circuits governing it was 'over-biased' voltage-wise or something.. I guess I'll have to wait until spring when I get the snows off to be sure...but I must attest that frequent AT fluid changes (coupled with Lucas additive) had a very beneficial effect. Perhaps getting the ATF mixture 'just right' may solve it...along with proper oil...gas etc. I guess it's back to 'ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure'. --Damien

Jacked racks...power quacks and tasty Dragon snacks....one puff and the magic's...well...'all that'

well...this is a case of Mr. Mechanic v. Mr. Engineer. Given that so much of the Subaru's internals are controlled by sensitive electronics it should suprise no one that subtle changes in certain mechanical characterteristics (such as pan fluid viscosity) in one of the drivetrain's components (e.g. steering rack) would alter electronic values (such as bias voltage) and have a cascading effect in the Subaru's entire electronic infrastrucure that could possibly lead to a positive (and possible surprising effect) on other components. The torque bind issue that has been so pervasive in many of the 4EAT transmissions is related to one of the solenoids that is used to regulate piston pressure on the clutch pack used to distribute torque to the rear differential. There is a reason why the fluid type in the steering rack and transmission is the same...both are connected to each other not only mechanically by a belt but also electronically. But...for all I know, a centimeter's difference in tire diameter may have made all the difference... In any case...Mr. Engineer's stupid advice may put you out 7 bucks and leave you feeling used and abused...but trusting Mr. Mechanic may wind up costing you thousands. --Damien

Try adding some Lucas additive. It was a boon for my 4EAT.... --Damien

Recently I flushed the power steering fluid from the sump in my 96 outback and in addition to basically eliminating the squealing it appears to have greatly ameliorated the so-called 'torque bind' that has been a problem for years in the 4EAT automatic transmission. I guess it may stand to reason since the fluid type is the same in both sumps. I can't think of any other reason why the torque bind just 'went way' suddenly...(enough miles on those snow tires, perhaps) I did bleed air and increase the antifreeze concentration in the radiator, too recently. For a $1.80 hand pump and a quart of ATF it's something worth trying anyway... --Damien

Well now the chirping from the steering rack is completely eliminated. Additionally the 'torque bind' has also abated completely (but maybe that's cuz of the fuse I stuck in the FWD plug recently...I haven't confirmed that the mechanism had engaged) I have to stress that electronics play a very key role in the car's overall health and functioning. One bad transistor or over-biased relay or whatever can spell an early doom for a mechanical component. From what I can gather something as simple as a fluid change can really have a very noticable impact in the proper and efficient functioning of other connected components in the car's drivetrain/aspiration etc. Gasoline quality also plays an important role. Any thoughts on enzyme fuel additive I see they are now selling in parts stores? Something to think about... :-) --Damien p.s. Tires can also make a h___ of a difference.

Yesterday I basically flushed the fluid that was in the power steering reservoir. It was pretty dirty. It was a simple procedure... a $1.80 hand pump and a quart of Dexron. Now the steering is noticeably more responsive and the 'chirping' problem I mentioned originally is basically gone. Sometimes it chirps a little when the steering wheel is cocked max to the left or right but not after the car has warmed up. I recommend frequent fluid changes for the automatic transmissions as well (in spite of what the 'experts' say). Once again it may pay to consider a simple, inexpensive solution before giving up and opting for the costly repair. Cheers! --Damien

well...I got an oil change cuz what was in the pan was almost like molasses...I blame using too much SeaFoam (I got in the habit of putting a few ounces in the gas tank on every fill up...that plus using Lucas stuff probably caused some kind of chemical reaction). Anyway...the squealing has died down considerably...so I think another chemistry lesson may be in order for those wishing to maximize life out of current vehicles. Cheers! Damien

I might add I had cheap oil put in with a lousy filter...after only 2000 miles it's foul and dirty. I'm thinking poor quality motor oil also plays a key role in degrading performance in that whole crank/belt system on the front of the EJ22. --Damien

you know you may be right...the belt does look a little glossy. How about fluid change....is it as essential to promoting longevity in the power steering system as it is in the transmission? --Damien

belt seemed pretty tight...fluid was a bit low and really dirty.... --Damien Secrets? All the secrets are on the Hystery Channel... :-D

Hi Subarites, It's gotten colder up North here now and when I start my Sube I get the squealing that I know has something to do with the power steering assy. What could be the cause...do I need to flush the fluid? Low fluid? Bearings on the wheel that drives it getting worn? It's especially pronounced when I have the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right or left so I'm thinking it may have something to do with the fluid. My mechanic mentioned something about how I might be needing a whole new rack sometime relatively soon... Keep smoking 'Tbackers, Damien

Hi, I have a 96 Legacy Outback and I was recently notified by a GMC mechanic that I need to have my rear struts replaced. What is involved in replacing struts? I thought that all of those components save for the shock absorbers are basically solid steel.... Ball joints? --Damien

Well...a bolt was missing and I think rust was keeping the caliper in place. I don't think they were lying about that...I suppose they could have just put in a bolt but they told me they couldn't 'do that' for a lame reason I couldn't really argue with at the time. I couldn't really drive it off the lot cuz it was the lower bolt so the friction would have whipped the whole caliper around. Anyway I brought it in this morning but I didn't really pay attention to what the mechanic was actually doing...for all I know they were probably confident enough they did a good enough job the first time around. This is the St. Johnsbury Subaru dealership in Vermont for those from the New England area. I would give these guys about a 5/10 for honesty. I guess the usual caveat about 'stealerships' would apply yet again esp. if you have an older Subaru. Cheers! Damien

Thanks for the reply.... What do you mean my 'pump up'? --Damien