TIMBERTIGER

Awesome thanks!

Anybody ever put one of these 600 series air cleaners on their Weber 32/36? If so, how do you like it and does this come with everything I need? http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=RF1038

Yeah I read the same thing in some other forums about different cars. None offered an explanation or solution of course. The only thing I can think of is the short length of the tow bar is allowing my Tribeca to scoot the front end of the BRAT to the side on sharp turns and that cocks the wheels in the wrong direction. Also the Tribeca is drawing the towbar slightly downward and I think the added friction doesn't alow the tires to forgive and travel strait one it begins to bind.

Thanks everyone for the replys. Sorry I haven't been able to respond. I ended up towing it with the tow bar, shifter in neutral, 4WD lever in normal down position, steering unlocked. Towed 2600 miles from Whidbey island, Was to Pensacola, FL at 75MPH behind my Tribeca and still averaged 17.5MPG! The one problem I had was that the wheels would turn the opposite direction on slow sharp turns and I would have to hop out in a hurry and straighten her out but this was only a problem in gas stations and drive thrus etc... Not sure what the issue is but only a minor problem and well worth the effort!

Is there any reason why I should NOT to my 82 BRAT DL 4spd s/r with all 4 tires on the ground using a tow bar? I can't see why it could harm anything but want to make sure. Thanks!

Updated specs to avoid future confusion of anybody coming across this thread: 81/82 BRAT RELEASE BEARING Bearing Inner Race Bore Diameter (in): 1.377999 Bearing Outer Race Outside Diameter (in): 2.228 CLUTCH DISK outside diameter 7 7/8" spline inside diameter 7/8" spline count 21 83-86 BRAT RELEASE BEARING Bearing Inner Race Bore Diameter (in): 1.5748 Bearing Outer Race Outside Diameter (in): 2.539 CLUTCH DISK Disc outside diameter 8 7/8" spline inside diameter 7/8 " spline count 21

Jono, I actually bought the kit for the 86 originally and it came with the 24 spline. Lesson learned. Here is the link for the clutch I ended up going with: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ5/KF47501/01351.oap?year=1984&make=Subaru&model=Brat&vi=1267725&ck=Search_01351_1267725_2532&categoryRedirect=01351&pt=01351&ppt=C0015

Ok, did a full Weber conversion and emissions delete -Didn't solve anything. Pulled another fuel pump control module out of another car, replaced both fuel filters again, replaced fuel pump, disconnected and blew out all lines, drained and flushed fuel tank -Runs like a raped ape! Not sure if i had one single problem or if it was a combination of everything. The old fuel pump control unit was definitely bad though. Got power to the fuel pump as soon as I hooked up the new one. I also noticed that with the new module, I have continuity between the wires at the fuel pump and I didn't have that before either. Thanks everyone!

Clutch is installed and she flys down the road without a hitch! Gloyale,the listing in the catalog must be for an ea82. I think you're right. The catalog must not take into consideration that the BRAT didn't change with everything else.

Ok so I picked up the new kit from Oreilly's this morning and it fits perfect. Here is what I've learned according to the catalogs: 81/82 BRAT RELEASE BEARING Bearing Inner Race Bore Diameter (in): 1.377999 Bearing Outer Race Outside Diameter (in): 2.228 CLUTCH DISK outside diameter 7 7/8" spline inside diameter 7/8" spline count 21 83/84 BRAT RELEASE BEARING Bearing Inner Race Bore Diameter (in): 1.5748 Bearing Outer Race Outside Diameter (in): 2.539 CLUTCH DISK Disc outside diameter 8 7/8" spline inside diameter 7/8 " spline count 21 85/86 BRAT RELEASE BEARING Sealed Self-Aligning type Bearing Inner Race Bore Diameter (in): 1.305099 CLUTCH DISK Disc outside diameter 8 7/8" spline inside diameter 1" spline count 24

Awesome! Thanks guys I'll let you know how it works out!

I've found a possible donor car on Craigslist for a rear disk conversion on my 86 BRAT but I want to make sure they will work before I make the 2 hour drive south. It's an 87 GL turbo AWD and the guy says it has rear disks. Here's the link: http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/4595344444.html

Here is the 3rd picture. You can see the face of the pressure plates is the same but the new one has these stupid little "ears".

The kit I ordered was for an 84 BRAT. Everything is correct including the surface diameter of the pressure plate but the little "ears" on it are all that is keeping me from moving forward. I just ordered a kit from Oreilly's and it should be here tomorrow. We'll see if the pressure plat in that kit looks any different.

Wouldn't let me post 3rd picture...

Ok, so I am replacing the clutch on my 1986 BRAT GL and I have run into a load of problems. First, I assumed the engine and tranny were factory 86 since the car had 1 previous owner and only has 113k but found that this was not the case when I tried to install the 86 clutch kit. After playing musical clutch parts I have learned that you can have 3 completely different throw out bearings and clutch discs from 82-86 and I have finally narrowed mine down to 83/84. I finally have the correct disc and throw out bearing after ordering the kit for an 83 but the pressure plate does not fit. Were there any differences in flywheels as well? The pressure plate that came with the kit has these "ears" that will not fit in my flywheel so I can't even bolt it on. I am suspecting that the kit came with the wrong pressure plate but would like some advice before I run back to autozone AGAIN and end up looking like an idiot. I have attached pictures that should help illustrate my discrepancy. The first picture is the old pressure plate, the second picture is the new pressure plate, and the third picture is both pressure plates stacked face to face for comparison. Thanks for any help!

I've had one car that had a plug and I couldn't get it out. not sure what the difference is and why some cars have a plug and some don't.

It's not m14. I can make something work but I want something that looks clean and proper. This is my 4th weber swap and I don't like jimmy rigging things like I have in the past. Before, I would cut the thermo sensor flush and put it back in and I would also cut the EGR line and fill both of the fittings with high temp silicone and use those as plugs but even though all of those meathods work great I want it to look profesional. I plan on doing many more builds in the future so I am trying to streamline the whole process and work out all of the kinks that people usually just "work around". Once I find permanent solutions to all of these little problems I plan on making a step by step guide. Thanks for the input!

The dealership says it's 3/8 NPT but the plugs I bought don't fit.

I'm trying to find a plug for this hole on my manifold and I can't figure out what thread type it is. Also, does anyone know what thread type the EGR exhaust line is? I think it's the same as this hole. Some metric pipe thread?

I'll swap out the leads and see if that helps. I'm still not sure what to remove to clean the inlet needle and screen?

Check out sjrlift.com most the guys on here run his lifts

If you can find a decent schematic you might be able to read out the wires from the relay connector and the wires on your coil.

The wires should come through the bulkhead directly fwd of the pump I have read mine out to the connector at the relay and had continuity all the way through. If it was grounding out the power wire somewhere I think it would blow a fuse. I have my pump wired direct to a switch for now so I can troubleshoot one problem at a time.

I wasn't getting power at the fuel pump when this whole thing started so I've had the pump wired to a switch since then.