loonysalmon

Thanks for that gloyale. I really just had a question in regards to how to ground that pin out. I'm not at home now, but I will have my dad do that if he's feeling up to it. I'll report back to this thread as soon as I can with results. It might be next weekend. -Tom

Okay, so john sent me http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf earlier. It says in the fsm that there is a 17 pin connector and to use pin 11 to ground to get the trouble codes to flash through the power connector. It stated through a diagram that it was on the left side of the vehicle, however I could not find a 17 pin connector on the left side of the vehicle (passenger). I did however find one on the right side of the vehicle, but it did not work as planned so I found out. Am I able to just use the FWD switch to enable the trouble codes? Thanks In Advance, -Tom PS: From the looks of it though, I'll be driving a 1989 GL back to school. Good thing it's pretty much mint, eh?

However, that never happens and 16x flashes mean that there is a problem with the transmission. How do I go about getting the codes from the TCU? -Tom

Gary, I just took the car for a short drive and then shut it off and restarted it. The POWER light just blinked 16x. I'm assuming that you have a simple solution. HOPEFULLY!!! :banana: -Tom

OK, so I am getting 60mph @ 3900 RPM, definitely not standard for a 4 cylinder. Am I right to assume that O/D is not kicking in? If so, how the hell can I fix this? I've got to road the car up to School tomorrow -- two hours away and want to fix this asap. Ideas? I've been reading that the transmission needs to be at a certain temperature or something like that before it actually shifts into O/D. Also, going from 1-2 it has a hard shift...connected? Maybe Fluid is clean and not burned. -Tom

John in KY just helped me out majorly over on the SubaruXT forum. Evidently I didn't have the flat part of the steering column spline under the pinch bolt on the universal joint. Picture of how I had it setup here. No wonder why it looked like this on the inside of the firewall. Thanks again John!

I am currently reading the FSM for the 88 XT and it says to temporarily tighten the three bolts, remove lock bolt, connect meter cable, harness, and pop-up cable, and then install the universal joint. Should I have currently removed the universal joint at this point? If the manual says so, I think I might have to. What are your thoughts on this? -Tom

I got the column in to the universal joint fully to the line at this point, however I cannot get the bolts to line up to the dash just right. I think I need a helper that is stronger than my dad. The steering column is fully clearing the firewall hole, however it is not lining up correctly to bolt up to the dash. I'm at a loss here. Any tips/tricks? When the wheel is lowered a bit, I can get it to push through the firewall more, however when I go to lift it up, it comes back a bit. I am guessing there is a perfect point in there where this works just perfectly. My father, however, is not able to understand me when I say to push in hard and move the dash upwards. Maybe my mechanics are just bad, however I'm sure this is the problem I'm having. -Tom

Any tips for how to get the steering column back into the universal joint easily? The spline has about 1/16-1/8" left to go and just wont' go any further. Is there a more simiple way to get this back in? The U-Joint just keeps bowing to the side or not staying still. If I could hammer it on there it'd be easy to fix it, however this is not fun at all.... Definitely no dancing bananas for this post.... -Tom

Heater core seems to be installed correctly. Dash is installed. Time for the Steering column. I should be able to get it driving today after I get the steering column in. -Tom :banana:

GRR, this heater core aches me while I try to reassemble the pieces and clamps... I'm just getting fed up but still happy! At least I have until wednesday before I leave for school. The more complete my car is put back together, the more space I'll have. HAS ANYBODY EVER INSTALLED AN AFTERMARKET STEREO IN AN XT? Will it mount up with a kit, if there is one available? I just got a Single DIN aftermarket stereo today on my trip back from University. Traded $50 from my computer sale for a friend's slightly used unit. -Tom

Haha, yes! For a little bit there, a relay? was clicking on and off. It was circular and in the center of the dash area at the bottom, in front of the shifter. I heard it in the engine area as well, near one of the spark plugs on the passenger side. I was wondering what the noise was, even though it went away. Also, the lifter has since quieted. I'm heading back to my school tomorrow to sell my old computer to a good friend. Hopefully I'll get back early enough to take care of some other stuff on the car, namely putting the drive shaft back into the Universal joint. Lets just say I was trying to get the thing bolted back up and it didn't cross my mind to hook it back in on the engine side. :banana::banana::banana: :banana: Now lets bring on the Jagerbombs and brews! :drunk::drunk::drunk: :drunk: -Tom

IT'S ALIVE!!!! Fuse #11 had a loose and/or corroded wire on it--the black/white one. I wiggled it a bit and hooked the fuel pump back up and BLAM... it was alive. Dad says lifter is a bit loud but he has something to remedy that. It's idling at about 500, a bit low if I do say so myself. I LOVE LIFE! I FEEL LIKE A LITTLE KID AGAIN! :banana::banana: YESSS! -Tom

Thank you gloyale, I will get right on to doing that. I charged my battery overnight but it turned out that the battery was completely done for. I'm charging another battery at the moment and hopefully this one isn't toast as well. FSM's have the location of these Ig. relay, FP relay, and Purge solenoid (or just disconnect whole engine harness). I'll have to look around for them however. Thanks so far. And again John, I wasn't ignoring you -Tom

John, I replied on subaruxt forum, my email addy is loonysalmon@gmail.com

NO not sure, will check this out in a bit here.

Which fuse would happen to be #11? How does the counting work? And yes, the red wire has power. Also, I checked all of the fuses visibly and they all looked fine. Maybe it's in the iggy! And yes, I have the multimeter now. Lets have this problem checking begin tomorrow morning! I can almost see the white light at the end of the tunnel!!!

Hey again. So I checked the fusible links themselves with a setting of 200 on the multimeter and the links were coming up with 20-30 for the resistances. I also got a hold of a battery charger so I can have a battery to work with when I want to do work on this car, instead of jumping it up every time. I'm sure I'll have more details for you all tomorrow, however until now, I'm calling it for the night. Thanks so far, and I expect to continue on this ordeal until it is finished--or at least until Thursday morning. -Tom

I have the four cylinder version. I'm still working on getting a multimeter at this point. I thought I had one of mine, but both are back at home!

How would I go about checking the Fusible Links? Ammeter before and after and ensure continuity??

Cougar, I am not getting power to the Ignition coil or the Fuel Pump, which leads me to believe that it is the ECU that is not sending power to the relays that control the power for these parts. I've got the FSMs here so I'll start paging through them to see what I can't find. I traced it before and it came back to the ECU controlling power to these relays. Without the ECU getting power, I am without a check engine light and even with the green diagnostic connectors joined together, I have no led flashes from the ECU. Something is amiss here. -Tom

Hi there! I posted a question a bit ago in regards to getting an ECU for my subbie and have since received it and installed it. To my surprise, the new ECU didn't fix my problem and I now am tracing what the problem is at this point. So far I have re-ran the ECU wiring harness and installed a new ECU to ensure that I have a clean start on the wiring. Since we can rule the wires going to the ECU out, what does this ECU require to at least turn on, in terms of power and other things. I need to get this car running before I start school--leaving on Thursday early morning for MTU. Any help from this community would be thoroughly appreciated as I love my Subbie. Thanks a lot in advance, -Tom

Thanks--I found an 22611 AA520 ECU for $30 from an 88 XT. I'm going to ask them if it came from a non-turbo XT and then I'll be purchasing that. I need a car ASAP as my Honda needs CV joints, front struts, exhaust manifolt, muffler, and a new O2 sensor. Obviously, if I can get the XT working I'll be saving myself about $400 in parts. Wish me luck

Thanks a lot Gary. Can somebody else confirm this please? -Tom

Hi all! I'm looking to replace the ECU for my 89 XT. I understand that the model number for these is 22611 AA640, however my question was related to another number on the part. On the label, under the 22611 AA640 part, there is another number-- A11-000 152. I was wondering if when replacing the ECU if this number had to be the same. I was doing some searching for replacement parts on http://www.car-part.com and found that there were some other numbers, like A11-000 R46 and others. I guess my question is, can I use an ECU other than the A11-000 152? 86subaru send me a message before that he had a 22611 AA640 but it came out of a turbo XT. I was unsure if that would work or not and he has yet to respond to the message I sent yesterday asking for the other numbers on the ECU. Thanks a lot in advance. -Tom