CraigC

Thanks! I really feel like I accomplished something with this job. I'm glad it worked, since I had to take mine all the way out to be sure everything matched exactly as far as wiring and such, and then I was still a little nervous it would work correctly, but it works great! I'm very relieved, and am now sure they're the same trans. I didn't have to take the engine out, but it might have made it a bit easier since I don't have a lift! I essentially made my own makeshift lift using the tallest jack-stands I could find, and putting them up on top of some 8x8 lumber. I put it up at all 4 corners that way, to get the bottom of the car nearly 3 feet in the air. That took some doing, (jacking up and resting on stands, then adding wood under jack, then wood under stands, and jacking up...etc.) but worked perfectly and was well worth the effort! Not wanting it to fall on me I'd say I overbuilt it, and for safety I added some wood so if it fell it wouldn't land on me. Once it was up in the air, I drained everything, took the front half of the exhaust down, pulled tires/axles/etc, disconnected everything from trans basically, and took it out from the bottom. The main problem I encountered along the way, was removing the torque converter bolts, where it meets the flexplate (or flywheel - whatever you want to call it). There was basically no good way to get in there! I was told that there was access to them from the top on the passenger side...but that's only on the 4 cyl's it's not there on the 6's! I ended up having to remove the throttle body, as there is a very small place to access them below it. There was only about an inch of space to get a wrench in there, and it was very difficult! I maybe could've got a little more room to work if I took off the intake plenum I think. I just took my time with them and it was alright. Other than that, everything came apart like it should, no stuck bolts, or major problems along the way. It's a fairly time consuming project, but do-able by most people who are comfortable with a wrench. A helper when actually taking it down and putting it back up was essential (for me), but other than that it's a 1 person job. If anyone is doing a similar job and needs any help/tips/advice on any part of this job, I'm willing to give as much specific info as possible as to how I did things.

Well, I bought it and installed it, with no problems! IT WORKS! It was certainly a major project, and took longer than I anticipated, but it went fairly smooth. I've only driven it about 50 miles or so, but it everything works perfectly, no lights or codes, shifts smoothly, and most importantly...no more differential gear whine!! Everything lined up, hooked up, connected, etc! I can't say that every single one is the same, but my experience with this car is that the one that I got from a 2004 outback LLBean H6 wagon, was the exact same as my 2001 outback LLBean H6 wagon, and it works perfectly! Thanks again to everyone who helped me figure this out! Craig

From your links, it looks like it would work to me, they're saying usage is from late 99 thru 04 in the Bean's. Thank you for taking the time to help me out with this! I actually just got good news on this however, the place that has the trans emailed me back today and said they're sure, based on part #'s and some further research, that it will work - for sure. I'm buying it! If I have ANY problems with it, you will all be the first people to know about it. Or if it goes in successfully, you'll know that too. Thanks again to everyone who contributed!

I know I'm a little late here, (or a lot, oh well) but I've got an 01 Bean w/the H6 also. As for VDC I can't really say b/c I haven't driven it, but I CAN say that I haven't needed it. I routinely drive back and forth from CT to VT in the winters on weekends to go skiing, and even in the worst snow storms, I've never felt I needed anything more than what my car has got. As for premium fuel issue, I feel it IS neccesary, and I really only say that because these H6 motors have 10.5:1 compression ratio's. I've always been told (granted, it may not be totally accurate - but it's what I've always known) that anything over 10:1 is going to need to run 92 or higher octane to prevent pre-ignition...which will kill your engine fast! For anyone unsure of what that is, the shortest answer i can give you, is that octane is resistance of fuel to ignite, and under higher compression (or higher temperatures) lower octane fuel has a tendancy to ignite before your engine is ready - before your plugs fire! I'm not an expert here, but am very competent with a wrench, and that explaination has always been enough for me to run 93 in my car. anyone feel different, with a better reason than I've always been told?

Ok, so I was away on vacation, and just got back and put all the info together today. My trans is a TZ1A4ZVCAA, and theirs is a TZ1A4ZMFAA. I'd think they'd work, but the last 4 are different, not just the last 3. Should I go for it? They're not offering any help, only saying they "think" it'll work but can't be 100% sure, and are telling me it's there if I want it...do my own research basically! Anyone have any idea here?

Perfect! Thanks johnceggleston! That's the only thing I was left worrying about. I'll call tomorrow and get the part number off their tranny, and if they match I'm going to order it and tell them to ship it! THANKS to everyone who contributed...I really appreciate all the help. It seems simple now that it's just a part number issue, but I wasn't sure before, and it was an expensive risk to take. (even tho the tranny is a deal!)

grossgary- you point out exactly why I'm worried on this! I've seen the 01's listed alone, along with the 02's alone, and the 03/04's interchanging....but as others have pointed out, I've always heard that the 4eat's are the same, and I was also told that 01-04 were all the same, so I was a bit puzzled. Thanks to everyone else for their input too! It seems the most reliable way is to go by part number though, so I think I will do that and verify that they're the same. I'd like to not have to change the wiring harness if possible, but for the right price (which i think this is) I can go through a bit of extra work if neccesary. Last question, the only reliable way I know to find out final drive (ring & pinion ratio) is to either count the teeth, or count rotations. Anyone have a better way than that with these particular trannys? Thank you VERY much for your help, I feel better about this now.

Ok, I've been reading here for a while, but haven't had to post anything yet, so here's the first one! Hopefully someone can help me out here. I'm REALLY hoping that somebody know for sure 100 percent one way or the other...because I'm about 95% sure it's the same and it will fit....BUT I'm getting ready to spend a decent amount of cash on it, and if it doesn't fit it's on me!! (can't return because it doesn't fit, only if it's broke!) The details: Well, my car is an 01 Legacy Outback LLBean with the H6 in it, and the actual problem isn't the trans per-say, but the front differential, but seeing as they're one unit it IS the tranny. Either the pinion bearing or the carrier bearings have gone bad, probably both with my luck. It really tends to whine while I'm on the throttle, and not while I'm off. I'm positive it's coming from the front diff, as the load of metal chips that came out of it during a recent fluid change have confirmed it as such! Ouch! (I'm at 149K miles, with no real problems to speak of, so this isn't too bad.) The parts to rebuild are about 700 bucks, but I can get this entire unit for 700....so it's a no-brainer. The trans I'm looking at is coming from an 04 Legacy Outback LLBean with the H6. It's got 65K miles on it, so I should be good. (NEITHER of these have the VDC.) The question is: Will the 04 fit in the 01 FOR SURE? Also, any input on that for in terms of miles for the money on the used tranny? I feel like it's a good deal, but confirmation is always good to. I'm getting 6 months warranty on part only...and am changing myself. Thanks in advance! Craig