-tombba-

Bump. Anyone ?

Ok so let's start from the point why I'm asking the question: My original coupe rear right tail light is cracked badly and altought I already acquired the only spare tail light available here it seems that the newly acquired light has lots of small cracks forming in the lenses too. There is tons of sedan tail lights available still used but none of these coupe ones has came by. Also keep in mind these are European lights so they have that fog light as standard but otherwise same size as other market lights. (some pictures of the newly acquired one): Okay so what I'm after is some info regardint the differences between Sedan and Coupe lights. I know they differ slightly in appereance since the coupe lights has that black part on the upper part of the light and also a bit more lens on the license plate side. But is that all of the differences or is there some more like mounting point and hole dfferences etc. ?

Here in europe there is a gl-10 equilevant version that has dual range awd tranny with center locking diff. I myself obtained one of these transmissions from my raised roof air suspension turbo wagon. So the same tranny as in rx.

Painted my rims. Those are now ready for new tires. I wasn't after a perfect finish so some rattlecan primer and rim paint did the job.

Did you check the fuses?

Heres some more EDM heads: TK 6 not underlined. Taken from turbo engine: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rpvpyq2l263ucaw/2015-05-13%2019.57.47.jpg?dl=0 TK 5 underlined. Taken from NA MPFI engine: https://www.dropbox.com/s/uul1qb941fwxkp7/2015-05-13%2020.00.05.jpg?dl=0 I also have a set of gen 3 heads that I have to check what casting mark do they have in them. But that will take a while

This might help

Some years ago when I first had to replace my black fusible wire link I changed it to a 50A (green) boxed FL fuse. It tended to blow even that there was nothing wrong to be found in the electrical system. After that I changed it to that black one and it worked well. It's ofcourse better to use smaller rated fuses if they do last in there, but in my case those just kept popping without any good reason. That 80A/40A/50A/40A is just what I've been using without problems and not a quideline for others. Best thing in this setup is that you can use those female socket boxed FL fueses straight in the original fuse holder and just pick the right size that feels good or works for your setup.

I've replaced my fusible link wires with the never boxed fusible links. I just followed the color coding as jono mentioned earlier and ended up with this kind of setup: (Note it's not my picture but I have the same setup): So it's 80A for the black wire, 50A for the red wire and 40A to the green wires. These fuses just pop in to the place of original ones so they are probably the easiest ones to put in place of the original wires.

I have had couple of those LUK clutch sets and those seem to be excellent in my opinion. One of them was installed years ago to my old leone and it holded up nicely for couple years even in hard situations like pulling a big trailer and hitching some cars from the ditches they have ended up. No problems with the LUK at all.

I bought that same eristic kit. It seems to be ok for it's price but I will not be using those head gaskets since those look pretty rough in my opinion.Those head gaskets would probably be okay to be used, but I don't want to take any risks that they blow up in near future in my turbo engine. This kit even had metal reinforced cam case oil o-rings so no need to buy them separately. The kit will be missing some seals and one of them being oil pumps axle seal. I took some pictures of it when it arrived: Head gasket: Some randon gaskets (mostly to the intake manifold, seems to be ok quality): Some more random gaskets (oil pump, piston pin hole plug seals, injector seals, cam case o-rings etc.) : Seals for the timing belt covers: Intake manifold seals: Ehaust manifold, valve seals, camshaft outer seals: Oil pan gasket: Crankshaft oil seals: And the valve cover set: And some close up pictures from some of them: Block breather and oil sump seal pretty much the same quality/material both: Oil seals: Cam case o-rings (as mentioned these are metale reinforced): Cam case cover bolt seals: Valve sealse: Intake manifold seals (these looks pretty crap to me and wont be using these): Turbo exhaust manifold (with metal reinforecement) and NA exhaust manifold gaskets: Closer look to couple of those paper mass seals: Injector seals: Timing belt cover seals and other rubber gaskets pretty much the same quality: Sorry for pic heavy reply But you get a pretty good image what you get from that kit. All in all I'm quite happy for it and will be using most of the seals.

I found something that I've never somehow seen before. https://www.dropbox.com/s/zqnzrhe8hrxs9vj/DSC_0032.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/cnj7nzh5ie1g11y/DSC_0031.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/89go0b44bhu9hfy/2015-05-06%2020.45.03.jpg?dl=0 It is a EA82 MPFI or EA82T intake manifold with closed egr ports from the factory. Has anyone got any more info from which model this intake manifold might have came from. It's otherwise identical to my other EA82T intake manifolds but it does not have egr valve or the solenoid for it.

It might be possible, but you have to remember that there is metal pins on the circuit board where those rubber mounts fit. those two holes under the rubber mount means two equal size metal pins about 10 mm long protruding from circuit board to keep those mounts in there. After doing my own swap to leds (by the way no pictures yet since I did tear down the whole wagon for parts) I have been thinkin that it would be pretty easy to install leds by soldering them straight into the metal pins. I wanted to do the job the way I did since it's easier to swap bulbs that way and I have some spare bulbs laying around. But anyhow I think there ain't no straight fitting led bulb around for those small bulbs inside the centerpiece.

That crack is normal only if it doesn't go to the coolant passage or to the exhaust passage as one pair od my heads do.

Yes it will fit. Althought there is one more outlet in the turbo/mpfi tank than there is in carburetor NA version (it's the fuel return line in the front). So you need to plug it somehow before installing into carburetor car.

It could also be a faulty coolant temperature sensor which is located on the intake manifold (It's on the water bypass tube right side of the engine). That seems to be one usual part to fail in these.

JesZek yes I did vote on the poll Anyway I found this picture today (spot the hood): That hood would be nice since there is a lot of space to put a hoodscoop in it !

I found these wheels last fall to my 3 door coupe (Yes I'm going to refinish them with yet unkown color): As can be seen from pictures they seem to be made by RW and are modelet spyder. Set was missing two hubcaps so I ordered new flat ones to be there instead the original ones. Pictures tell pretty much everything known about these wheels. Altought 13" I will be using them with 175/70 R13 tires or maybe even 185/60 R13 if I cand find a set. I also measured the weight of these and they come to just over 5 kg so these are pretty light ones too. Anyway herese all the info of them in text too Size is 5" x 13" , ET 42, Center hole 76mm altought has a bigger one inside them, bolt pattern 4x140 and seem to be made in belgium at may 1989.

RH: 62210GA860 or 62210GA920 LH: 62210GA870 or 62210GA930 taken from MY86 FSM

You know it would look funny to add coupes rear section to a wagons back

The glass is the same in both power and crank window versions. Only the glass raising/lowering mechanism is different so you will be fine with the manual window glass (Just looked from the factory service manual).

Depending from the model year. As the topic states it's EA82 car so has nothing to do with brat and hatch.

Yep around 200€ for BOTH of them

Prepped m new injectors to the ea82t engine. Lower injector from nissan ca18det engine and they are 370cc low impedance injectors: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1xpcd13vini99ml/2014-12-02%2019.11.28.jpg?dl=0 And here the middle on fitted with ea82t mounting ware: https://www.dropbox.com/s/yhluo8237yrpam1/2014-12-02%2019.12.28.jpg?dl=0 Those nissan ca18det injectors are straight swap and does not need any modifications at all. I've used them before with good results. I've used them with standard ecu and they seem to work well with it.

I honed cleaned and painted my block halves today: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u97o6alz1lhwuth/2014-11-28%2019.20.35.jpg?dl=0 I also painted the heads too. Got some paint on the gasket surfaces too but it should come off pretty easily fro them. I already resurfaced them and grinded the valve seats too: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4fqdnti2q8zb24f/2014-11-28%2022.14.54.jpg?dl=0 This is my backup engine but it's getting all new pistons, bearings, gaskets, timing kit and water pump.