-tombba-

The gasoline is ofcourse one reason for higher power in our engines. Regular gasoline is RON95 with 10% ethanol in it and te other option is RON98 with 5% ethanol in it (ofcourse there is special blends like V-power thatäs supposed to be over RON100 but it's utterly expensive too). I don't know about the fuel ratings in US other than the premium what I've understood to be RON97 with 10% ethanol in it so it's pretty near of our RON98. I've understood that the stock boost in US engines is around 7-8 PSI so hat too has ofcourse a lot to do wth the uprated power since out engines run near 10PSI.BUT still I tend to up my boost around to 13-14 PSI with no problems. It might be just the timing figures, boost level that makes the difference ofcourse. But I imagine using the US premium gasoline it's just as achievable as in here to run it reliably with the stock power ratings we got.

I still don't understand why the EA82T engine isn't reliable if pushed over 135 hp ? My EA82T engines have never had any realiability problems when in stock conditions. And since all of the EA82T engines I've ever had has been rated at 136 hp from factory I really always been wondering how come the engine can't handle more than 130 hp well. As mentioned my earlier engines have been all modified slightly to gain some power and still they have never broke down (altought the one that had issues with aftermarket boost controller that overbooted it). Maybe it's just a fact that the USDM engines are weaker somehow but then why not to rebuild them with JDM/EDM model parts to gain that 136 hp @ stock state and it still would be very reliable engine.

90% of the time in my case the exhaust manifold leak has been due to failed gaskets on the heads. Once I had a cracked echaust pipe right under the turbo flange too. There is four mounting screws for exhaust manifold per head but factory uses only two of them so It is advisable to mod the heads to use all four of them if there is any bad bolts in there. If possible it's a good dea to manufacture a whole new exhaust without that nasty original T-joint in it too. EJ manifolds don't fit directly.

Those electric "turbochargers" usually don'tdo a thing to raise power or even flow. It's just not worth it to fit one of those cheap small fans into the engine.

It's always kind of funny reading these post where people set the maximum limit for EA82 to around 130 hp since here in europe all of the EA82T engines are rated 136 hp from the factory. All three of my EA82T engines has seen some sort of modding to gain some more hp from them and I've never had any issues with the reliability (ofcourse not including some overboost issues that broke my engine but that was a obvious turbo problem). I've seen many lightly modded EA82T engines that have lasted for a long time. One of those modded engines included only a added intercooler and a boost around 13-14PSI (1 bar)and ran fine for 100k km. This engine ran a dyno run with a result of 189 hp. The reason for that engines rebuild was the tick of death and a broken boost conroller that overboosted it badly. So not exactly the engine itself that had realiability issues. I don't know what's the biggest difference between the USDM and EDM/JDM engines but ofcourse the different fuel ratings makes some difference but it just cant make that much difference itself. In all of my engines the boost have been set to around 9-10PSI from factory (0,6 to 0,7 bar). Biggest problem with these engines have always been the original T-shaped exhaust manifold in my opinion. These are in my opinion the essential mods for better reliability for this engine. -Better exhaust manifold -Intercooler -OEM oil cooler or similar -At least 2,25" exhaust (no cat) - Bonus: TD04L since the original turbo is so restrictive But once again this is just my opinion so don't take it too seriously. I'ts common that we see this setup in EA82T engines around here but enough is always enough for any engine. So don't go mad and just tune the engine to work well not for the most highest hp. And by the way here in my country we also need some engineering requirements if we swap EJ engine to EA car. It's basicly always at least the disc brakes nad suspension from the most poweful version available of the car mo% of the model and for bonus pollution tests are needes and the power must not go over 20% from the most powerful version of the model versions. So the most powerful EJ engine you can put in here is 120kW or 160 hp and no more tha 2,25 litres in size. That's the main reason I'm sticking with the old EA82T engine since it makse already 136 hp (same as EJ22 in here) and it's not very cheap to change into EJ series.

Yep it's kind of incorrect since I ment to write it right. That's what you get when writing in a hurry

Heres some good info about the rear shocks: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134704-differences-between-4wd-and-2wd-ea82-struts/?hl=%2Bea82+%2Brear+%2Bshock&do=findComment&comment=1132527 I can confirm that my stationwagon and sedan (both EA82 body) had different height rear struts. When I installed rear shocks from a parted wagon to my sedan my tail was about 2 inches higher than it was with the original shocks/springs and both were 4WD cars. 2WD rear shocks sits about 2" lower than the 4WD ones since they have the lower spring mounting plate lower than the 4WD versions do.

No don't kill your little fishes It's been in the engine bay for years and for sure has collected a lot of nasty stuff that is not supposed to go into your fish tank at all.

You can basicly use any stand alone ECU system in EA82 engines. Jsut have to make sure it can do both fuel and ignition at the same time. Search function helps to find some info about the ijectors. There isn't many options to use but there still is some options available. I just got one of my injector sets out from a cleaning and they measured around 260cc@3bar so I don't know if the euro engine injectors are bigger than the USDM engine ones.

My super clean 1988 3door leone coupe engine bay with EA71 in there (don't mind the rusty parts in spare tire compartment): It was this clean when I bought it and is very clean from insie too. Sadly has some rust here and there but it will be sorted and mayne painted later.

I'll bring this topic up so I don't have to make a new one. I just parted my 1990 leone stationwagon and found out that I have a 19mm front swaybar and a 18mm in the back. Has anyone seen these 18mm rear swaybars before ? The chart from the page one of this topic or either my factory manual does not recognise that 18mm rear swaybar. It's not really a problem ofcourse since I think the 19mm front and 18mm rear is a good combo. I've just never stumbled against that rear setup.

I did some part tear down on my donor wagon today. Took the engine off and the whole interior and ofcourse whole wiring loom for engine. Looks kind of funny in the yard now (notice my creative style to lift the body) So I got this out of there ( it has some nice extras already like TD04L, better header as can be seen and top mount intercooler piping ready. It's a EA82T European model so it's 100kW @ stock and since it's from model year -90 it has the last gen heads in it too) And that is going in this after I get the transmission, rear diff etc off that wagon.

As jj421 said I do not have any front corner lights at the moment. Someone broke my set in the car so I had to put the last set from my garage on. I can ofcourse try to find a set of them, but first I will have to ask "loyale 2.7 turbo" aka jeszek if he still want's one set because I promised him one set that I now need in my own car. But if someone is intrested I can try to find some sets of them and ship themo overseas. If someone is intrested I do have one set of the taillights available still. They are in a good condition and are ready to be shipped if needed.

If you mean the wire apart from the main lines (comes straight from the battery terminal). In my EA71 it goes to the valve cover bolt. That small wire is only for grounding the engine.

Yep. It's a common problem that they rust in finland since the long winter and road salt. But hat one mut have be the wors one I've ever seen. It was broken from both sides like that and the last owner must have done some sort of quick fix to it as can be seen in picture (the welding line). But happily I've got a new one now from my own parts car and it should last for a while after reinforcing it by weldint the tube in it. By the way I kind of swapped it in already So that means I have a subaru that can be driven on road once again !

So here's a photo of my distributor cap. It's not original but it is branded as ossca and has part number 22162-01B01 in it. It is 87mm in diameter (2mm more than the commonly used one) and my disty does not have vacuum in it. Seems to me that it's more commonly used in nissan car's. And yes ths one has screw connection inf someone is asking that. The cap:

Actually all of my EA82T engines have had a problems with slipping clutch after some modification.Since the engines here comes with 136bhp (same as EJ22) from the factory it's a bit different story how the oem clutch holds up. Basicly after swapping a bigger turbo and an intercooler to my engine the clutch starts to slip.

Looks like the leone gt ones we have ere in finland. We do have the multipoint injection EA82 in our leones so they did use that engine in them too. I had the same problem as you with the distributor cap. I first got a 2mm too small one that should have fitted to my EA82T. There sees to be two options with screw connection. One has a 85mm diameter and the other one has 87mm diameter. I can check the part number of my cap if I can still find it within today.

I reinforced my rear crossmember a bit. Put some 3mm thick square tube in and weld it in place: After welding the ends of the crossmember tube I painted it black and sprayed a coat of stone chip guard to it: And tomorrow it will hopefully replace this one: Oh and I did some braces into the inside of crossmember mounts too. And I did weld the square pipe into the inner parts by slicing it open and welding it together with the crossmember. I hope it stays together for a while now

Hmm last time I was using my subaru leone turbo -88 -Insurance around 350€ a year (around 460$) -Taxes 96€ a year (around 125$) -safety check with emission test every year 75€ (around 98$) -98 octane fuel around 1.7€/litre So to sum it up it's 683$ just to keep it in register in here (altought if it's taken off the streets no insurance is payed)

Here in finland all of the brats are called targa pickups and are long bed ones because of the old tax system. I think there isn't any other country in europe that had the long bed version so it is very rare version indeed.

I haven't bought a 2row radiator since I haven't found anything affordable for me yet. Also there isn't any for sale other than overseas and the customs and shipping and taxes raisest the price sky high. And what comes to the radiator shops. I've asked couple times what would it cost to fabricate one and it's always been ridicilously pricey (around 800€) to custom made one in here. And the last thing is that I haven't found any radiators for automatic ones in here either.

It's been avilable pretty long actually. I've been wanting to try one for a long time but it would be ridicilously pricy to order one here. I'd like to try their stage 4 set someday.

Sounds like a fauly hydraulic valve lifters to me. If it is it's not a big deal but very annoying and ofcourse it means losing some power because of the lifters are not working correctly. BUT I don't even know that does that engine have hydraulic valve lifters It just sounds exactly like the tick of dead in the older subarus altought your engine does not even sound bad yet.

Yes, I Agree that the Radiator could have gunk buildup; a chemical cleaning is Suggested in those cases when the Temp becomes Hotter as Speed is increased. Well, the Usual temperature behaviour in the Needle, vary in the EA82's as Follows: ► EA82's with factory Single Row Radiator: Needle around the Half. ► EA82's with Factory Double Row Radiator: Needle Around one Quarter. Kind Regards. That must be the reason why I've never crossed one that runs at 1/4 temp. I've been looking for a double row radiator for a while but no succes yet. I understand that automatic transmission versions had the double row but since it has te cooling for transmission too it is a bit unnesessary to get that one. It would be nice to have better cooling since my mods are going to cause some more heating to the engine when driven hard.