-tombba-

It's not necessary true that the higher airflow on highway keeps engine cooler. I've always wondered why everyone says that the temperature quaqe needle should sit in 1/4 since every EA82 engined car that I've had has run in the 1/2 point pretty much always. Even in winter when it has been over -30 celsius degrees it gets to the 1/2 point. But back to the topic. You should check that your radiator is not blocked and the second thing would be the mentioned thermostat. There could always be a blockage somewhere else in the cooling system but the radioator andthermostat cold be a nice starting place.

Just take the ac/alternator/water/power steering pump belt or belts off and remove crank and water pump pulleys and you should be fine. Those two pulleys you do have to take off to get into it. It's petty simple job to do but you might want to remove the radiator out of the way so you don't damage it doing the job. So here goes: - Take off the radiator - Take off the belts from ac/waterpump/power steering etc. - Remove the pulleys from water pump and crankshaft - Remove the bolts from timing belt covers - Remember to mark the place of belts - Remove the belt tensioners - Change the tighteners and oil pump pully if needed - Take off the old belts and put new ones in - Retighten the belt tensioners - Check and double check the right alignment - Pretty much put everything back on and check the timing If this info isn't correct the wise men of USMB will correct me

I have one of those US considered EA82 models that has EA71 in it. It's this one and it is 1.6 GL FWD version: The engine in your photos looks very similat to mine altouht I do not have those "do not ajust valveclearance stickers" and I know it doesn'thave HLA:s I've seen many of these 1.6 DL and GL cars in here and couple of 1.3 versions too. I think mine does not have electronic ignition since it has points too and does not have any sort of control box anywhere to be found (or then I just haven't looked in the right place).There's even some differences in the european EA71 and US EA71 since mine has 55kW rather than 50kW that I've read the US ones have.

Well you can do it in the car too if you want to. I just marked the needle places and put them back on where they were and that's it. RPM and Speedo are easier since they are reading zero and are easy to adjust into it when off the car but all other would be advisable to check to be in right place after refitting them. It's easy to misplace the needle and it would not show you the right temperature, oil pressure, fuel amount etc.

I already answered to your PM 92_rugby_subie but jus to let everyone else to know too it seemed to be easiest to remove the pin by pulling it with a fork of some kind. I did use a normal kitchen fork at first but found a suitable plastic interior tools to use on it. Needles should come off pretty easy with the fork but could be pretty tight too after sitting there many years. What comes to making it look zero when inserted in. You can make it to show you higher than zero first and adjust it by taking it all the way to maximum and carefully twist it over it and repeat if needed. I found that to be the easiest method to adjust them.

It did on my car once when the balance came off. It started with small shaking first but then awful bouncing effect after a while. Ofcourse when I did slow down the speed it settledagain to the shaking side. Bad balancing or bad rims do amazingly lot after all.

One option is that the rim balance weights has come of. And yes I would also check the struts since those two (wheels/rims and struts) are usually the reason to bad bouncing. My old car altough not subie sat for couple years and the back was bouncing like a maniac afterthat because one strut was bad (even it had notbeen driven in couple years).

I've never seen 0 in the charts if we are talking about the sixth number. Only numbers from 1 to 9 has been in the charts. If your 're talking about the ninth digit (as your vn has 0 in there) it is just a check digit.

For EA81 and EA81 powered 2nd gen leone/loyale: 5 (as a sixth letter) is for: 1800cc 4WD w/out air susp - 1988, 1989; 1800cc 4WD 1990-94 4 (as a sixth letter) is for: 1800cc 1985-94 7 (as a sixth letter) is for: 1800cc 4WD w/ air susp Then ofcourse there is the EA71 versions of second gen leone/loyale: 2 (as a sixth letter) is for: 1600cc - 1989 3 (as a sixth letter) is for: 1600cc 4WD - 1989 Or that's what I get out of the charts. It might not be right and I won't take any responsibility of it

My vin looks kind of funny if you try to read it from the known basis. JF1AK7EL0BG256641 is my vin and no probs until the fifth letter in it. As seen it has K as fifth letter and vin info tries to say me it's then "2nd gen. non-raised-roof Legacy Wagon". Then comes number 7 that should be correct since it was 4WD with air suspension. And once again the last six letters (12 to 17) says it's legacy sedan so go figure what it is - What I know about it it should be between MY89-91 lifted roof FT4WD with air suspension and oh it has EA82T so there is also some accurate info in the internet thingy regardin my vin.

My girlfriend told me that if I paint my white lifted roof station wagon like this she will drive it ! So I might have to do it since otherwise I need do take it to scrap yard

First you could Tellun what piggypack you area going to usein ? I doubt That it would work properly in ea82. Usually you take the singnal to tach from the coil or from the ecu pin 17 if I remember correctly. Heres a great article about megasquirting ea82t take a look it has lots of info in it: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_subaru_rx_turbo.htm IMHO it's not really worth the efforts to use those piggypack ecus. Standalone especially in this engine is the way to go.

Sorry not yet. It goes to the june when I get the dash on to my car. There's still around 50cm snow on my cars and I haven't even been to my carage this year at all . But I'll be there for 1,5 months in june-july so the I should get something done also

I suspect it's just a fulltime4wd tranny since if it came from rx. If it just doesn't shift to the fwd position in any conditions it pretty much has to be fulltime tranny. Altought one thing to mention. If you have different sized tires in front and back it might be very hard to shift into/off from 4wd mode.

I have couple sets of those tail lights. Mine is LHD and has the back-up lamp on the right side as seen in here: I can sell one set of them since I'm not going to keep my wagon models. BUT the shipping will be pretty high $ pretty much enywhere in the world.

I remember having a trunk light in my -88 ea82 sedan. My factory manual (altought for -86 model) states that there is a trunk room switch in the trunk situated nar the hinges but I don't have the part number. If you don't find the part number you could just use a generela brake light switch (one that turns on when turned out) and hook a custom light somewhere inside the trunk and wire all up.

Looks very clean and rust free so I would definitely keep it and restore it. Maybe you could do a EJ22 swap to it if the heads are very bad. It's very very rare to find that clean looking one here in Finland So if it's just the engine that's bad I would say keep it !

The belt goes around the crank pulley, water pump, power steering pump and alternator. The alternator's bracket is there to tighten the belt or belts up. So ditch the adjustable pulley because you should not need it with the non ac configuration. Now that you have two belts in there (as I suspect since it's ac version) you can use both of them or just one. It's up to you if you want to use two belts when the other acts as a backup if otherone brakes down. Heres the pic you asked: Hope this helps !

I was just writing the same thing as above. Definetly a fuel delivery problem. It can also be a clogged fuel filter so that's a good place to start looking before replacing the pump itself.

Those rear brake lines have been always in bad condition in my EA82:s when I've got them. One even snapped a line duringa heavy emergency braking thanks to a "nice" caravan puller that decided to pull in front of me in 100km/h limited road. Since then I have alwayschanged those rear lines to new one even if they don't look very bad. They don't cost much and are easy to make if you get right lenght of pipe with connectors from parts store. Especially the two pipes leading from rear brake itself to the brake hose. Hopefully changing that leaking pipe helps !

I did not even know there has been some kind of door chime in these. Is it just the first gen or has the second gen also had it ?

I would sayjust bleed the brake system and change the fluid to new one and see if it helps. It's easy job to do but requires two persons to do it without a fancy brake bleeding ware. If that does not help it could be getting some air into the system either from master cylinder or brake booster (my main guesses). But just do the brake liquid change and see how it helps. If it has been standing so long before you got it would be wise to check all the crucial parts from it at the same time just for your own peace of mind. About the poor starting. It sounds like a bad battery or starter connection. You might want to check if the battery leads or the wire leading to starter is corroded or otherwise bad. That has been the issue in 95% of my cars that does the same as your car.

Yes that did the trick for me too. If I remember correctly I just put a one washer under the bolt in there and it worked. In another engine I just resealed the oil pump and flushed the engine. I've never had any TOD that could not have been fixed with the oil pump reseal or the cam tower pressure trick and good flush.

Or just use the air interior circulation and buy a can of aircon cleaner spray (like the lysol mentioned by BlackBoot). Altought this does not clean the air intake ducts outside of the car as it would when spraying from the outside. Anyway this did the trick for me. I used a can of CRC airco cleaner. It's pretty easy to use since it epties itself into the car when opened. I did put the can to the front passenger footwell and left it in the car for 10-15min when heater was in intrior circulation position and heating on maximum setting. Then just took the can off after 10-15min and the interior was nice and fresh along with the air blowing from the heater.

I dont have the part number for the spfi engine. Since I don't have experience in the spfi engines I don't even know where it is mounted. As the topic title states the bosch one I quoted is for turbo and mpfi engines. This one I quoted is behind the intake manifold and is in the water/coolant passage that goes with the intake manifold.