-tombba-
-
Posts
230 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by -tombba-
-
-
Just for information for you guys if you are in need of a coolant temperature sensor (the one that ECU uses). I had a hard time finding a suitable one other than the stealer original one that was priced 64€. So I did a little search and found out that the same temperature sensor is used widely in other cars too. I found out that bosch part number 0280130026 is suitable and fits our EA82. So I went to the local parts store and found this with the bosch part number:
It's named as automega part number: 3013380458 and is exact match for the original one. This was priced 9,50€ so more than six time cheaper than the subaru original one. Ofcourse there was bosch one awailable pricing around 20€ but I thought that the cheaper one is fine. I even tested the sensor in 50 celcius and 20 celcius degree water and the values were 780Ω @ 50celcius and 2,2kΩ @ 20 degree so it sits nicely in manufacturerst reference numbers.
The sensor itself looks lke this:
So nothing that special but may be a good info if you are looking one. And by the way it has M12x1,5 metric thread in it. You can look for the bosch one in the internet thingy if you want. Its basicly the same thing as the one in my photos.
-
2
-
-
as you can see, it´s quite bad.
That is well known problem here in finland that the rear crossmember gets eaten away by rust and in result gives us a bad camber problems. My coupe has the same problem and so did my part car axle too. Leones have a lot of welding to do here in finland if you want them to be rust free or even somewhere near it.
-
Any Updates / News \ New photos of the Project?
Nope. Not yet since it's winter and car is nowhere near me wight now. Only update is that I changed the color of needles to darker blue. It might have been a small mistake to do that since it now does not have enough light to the needles. I Might have to install small leds to light up the needles now. Oh and I id change all of the dashboards T5 bulbs to leds too and took off the green color off them. They are now white too. I'll update pictures as soon I get the gauges and the dash back to the car.
-
I once fixed mine with a new resistor coil wires. I also had jsut the speeds 3 and 4. It's fairly easy to do the new resistor coils to it. I did it by wrapping resistor coil wire around a different szed pencils and cheked that I had similar amount of wire and similar thickness of wire in my new one and then just soldered the new ones on their places. I would not fix the old ones by soldering them since the resistor wires may get hot and the solder might melt in that case. I don't have any pictures of this operation but it's fairl easy to do when and you get the point when you see the part itself.
-
I had a same sort of problem when doing engine swap to my EA82T couple years ago. Every mark (including heads and flywheel) aligned as they should have and it still did not run at all. I played with it a while then and the reason was that the distributor wasn't in the correct place even that it seemed to be in the beginning. If the marks line up correctly and it still won't run it's just going to be a lot of playing with the distributor. I found the right spot for the distributor by turning it for one tooth at time. It just takes time and is very frustrating to do but it's worth it
-
I don't know if this has been here already but here goes anyway:
http://a15ff11300g.sakura.ne.jp/catalogue/AA%20leone/AA-type%20leone.html
It's a great site that has lot's of original brochures of the leone/loyale serie andmany other subarus too (includes the maia versin too).
-
Got the white leds in today. Only pic that I managed to get from it with the leds on is here:
The leds are a bit bright in that picture but not too bright in real life and are perfectly clear (not blurry as in picture). I don't have a decent camera so can't get a better pic of it now but it gives some idea how it looks after sanding the backside, changing the bulbs to led and coloring the needles. All in all I'm happy with the guage part now. Next thing is to change the original bulbs to leds in the rest of the dashboard and put all back in the car and see how it looks
-
I remember getting around 30-31mpg with my EA82T wagon in winter. Altought you have to remember that the engine was once again the european version boosting 100kW in it. But the three turbo EA82 cars that I've owned it's been always around 29-31mpg on highway at winter time. Did not really have big differencesbetween winter and summer times since the tires was same size. Ofcourse there was a big difference in city driving mpg in winter since it takes longer to the engine get warm.
-
I can confirm that some EA82's have two same lenght belts running in them. I have a EA82T in my wagona nd it does not have AC in it. It has always been running with the two belts on it.
Here is a picture of mine when I was fitting TD04 and top mount cooler to it:
As you can see there's both belts in there. It's actually a good thing have them both in. If the other one brakes it sill runs normally with the other and you can just replace them later on.
-
No it does not
It's just a piece of plastic that has the car shape and 4wd text painted on it. Does not have any lights for it. Altought the ones that have switchable 4WD/FWD has lights for indicating when 4WD is on but no lights in FT4WD and better so because it would be irritating in there all the time -
The fulltime 4wd and the car logo is only lighted with the dash back illumination lights. So it's basicly never on since it does not have own light in it. As you said lo comes on when you use it and diff lock when it's engaged from the switch in the center console.
-
Again I may have to correct myself
The leds arrived today and I used my day to fit them into the dash centerpiece. So first of all. I soldered the 560 Ohm resistors straight to the positive led pin like this:
Once done I dropped the led with the resistor into the rubber mount like this:
And fitted them back into their places like so:
Here's one led in a test with the resistor. Power source gave me 14,9volts and after fitting the resistor inline with the positive wire the voltage was 3.04 as can be seen here:
All in all a bit snug fit into the rubber mounts, but when I left the led standing a bit out of the mounts it worked fine. Now the time will tell do they hold without burning in the car. Since the ones I already installed aren't on all the time when driving it should be fine. Hope this helps someone once again. Remember that you use this method only with your own risk. You do need to check wich way around you put these leds into their places but it's quite easy to track wich connector goes where since they are all marked pretty well.
Still waiting for the main illumination leds to arrive so no updates from them yet.
-
I may have to correct my writings too. I found that my other turbo dash has a filter for the turbo light. BUT since it's only same kind as the blinkers have it's very easy to pop of from the frame. It's only a small green plastic part in the white frame part so nothing big about removing it. I did take it off and now it has a nice blue led in it that fits the needle color hopefully. But as said I'll be also posting pics after I get the leds in it and since it's christmas time the delivery time will be veeery slow since I ordered them from ebay
-
Does anyone have any clue about the resistor values in the fan resistor ? I would like to do new one myself from resistor wire but don't have any clue about the values.
-
Gonna be purchasing another cluster, just in case I dont do it right (the sanding) I wont end up having an inoperable car (at least not accurately operable)
I have the LEDs and a slight modification planned, hopefully will be doing this within the next week (gotta have the new cluster sent to me)
I would not worry about the sanding since you do not touch the front side that has the readings on it. You can basicly sand the whole back side iff you want to and would not notice any differenc on the front expect that the tint is gone.
-
Is it recirculating or athmospheric one ?
I have a imprezas cooler on top of my engine and it has forge motorport athmospheric dump valve on it. I never got it to work correctly with the engine. It always stays open after a one rev up.
But if you have a adjustable one it could work. You hook the vacuum control to the intake manifold side of throttle body so it can get the vacuum when trhottle is closed.
But if you have recirculating one the process is same but you hook the recirculating air line somewhere after the MAF/AFS (whaterver it's called in these things). In my case in my old car it was hooked up to the turbo inlet pipe and it worked well.
This might also light up some things: http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/main.asp?sitepages=dumpvalves
-
It's MS2 V2.2 I'm not sure if I'm going to use this one or am I updating it to something else since I have two projects that has MS going in them.
My idea with the base map is that I can insert the values to my own map from it and continue tuning it to my own needs after that. Not going to use it directly.
-
That might be true that it will be better to jsut start with empty tables. But it might give me some idea wich direction to go with the tables if there is some base info available. I'm going to read the wole manual in the coming winter weeks since I have a 3 week off from work/school then. That must be done anyway
-
There's no rush with this one so if one is founded it would be appreciated
I did find that diyautotunes link after psting this. I might do a base table according to that and see how it goes.
-
So does anyone have any base map for EA82T engine ? That would help a lot for tuning it up and running. I have a -90 registered leone that has hot wire maf in it.
I know it's a long shot to try find a ready map but basicly any version made for EA82 engine would do since I only need to get it started and to movable condition before getting it tuned up properly in dyno.
-
I might have it but I'm not sure wether it's the older one or is it this prettied up version that I have. I have a pdf that is named EA2EJ.pdf and dater 21.06.2009.
EDIT: Nope I think it's the original numbchuck one that I have !
-
I Kindly suggest you to do a Test of the e-Bay bulbs you purchased, connecting one directly to a the Car's Battery, then Start the engine and Rev it up for a While, (ten minutes at least) to see if those Bulbs could Hold the 14+ Volts from the Car's electrical system without burning; Prior to install them to the electronic board.
The idea is to Avoid damages to that Board, and wasting of Time, in case they fail.
Also, you can use a Common Resistor for all the Bulbs in that Board, usually they Share the same Positive imput (+) Marked as IGN in the rest of the Subaru Instrument cluster's boards.
Kind Regards.
That's exactly what I'm going to do with these. If i hook them up with the mentioned 560 Ohm resistor with a power rating around 0,5W it should hold up pretty well. That resistor should keep the curent at 20 mA and drop the voltage to the desired 3.2 V if the supply voltage is 14.4 V. That's what I calculated but as I said it remains to be seen that do they hold against burning in the car. I'm not going to put it back in the car until they do hold up against burning.
-
Well that remains to be seen. There's actually pretty much space inside. But when I get to the point to install them I'll take some pics how it works out
If they do not fit I just have to go and buy some 12volt leds instead that are available in 3mm size.I have couple of 560 Ohm resistors already so why no to try fit them in. The resistor may sit outside the rubber thing holding the bulb inside. But we'll see how it goes.
-
Hey guess what people ! I've got some new info regarding the lamps inside the dash centerpiece
So here goes:
The size of the bulbs are approximately 10mm x 4mm as you can see in these two pictures:
So I decided to order a bunch of leds from ebay. To be more precise a set of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-R-G-B-W-Y-ultra-bright-3mm-Water-Clear-LED-kit-/320878478241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab5d903a1
So I'm going to swapthe original incandescent laps to these 3mm leds (the reason I picked that set of 5 colors from ebay is that I'm going to keep the original colors and why not to brightem them up a little at the same time
Here you can see the "filter" part of the center thingy against daylight.
Everything else but the "height controll" and "door lock" will be in use. So fingers up it will work out nicely. The color of these lights would be a pain in the rump roast to change since the panel is painted only from behinf and you would most likely damage the black paint at the same time removing the colors.
But now it's just sitting and waiting for the new led bulbs to arrive from ebay. Hopefully it happens before chrismas so I can have nice christmas lights from my dash
Motor oils and brands
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I've always used 10W40 oil in my cars with ea82 engines. Even in the coldest winter times. Since it's ranging from -30 to +30 celsius degree in here from winter to summer I think it is the way to go. 10W40 is usually the choise for me in my subies anyways since it shoud be good to a wide range of temperatures and very easy to get and cheap and has always kept the lifter noises away. But a said before it's mostly up to the climate when talkin about which viscosity oil to use.