jermany755

From what I've read, the legacy gt's vf40 turbo is only slightly smaller than the sti's vf39. So yes a wrx td04 would be a downgrade. Although to be honest I have no idea what turbo they were using on wrx's in 2000. Where'd you get that thing? I would worry about how many miles are on it.

True. Also be careful torquing these bolts as I've heard stories of people breaking them off.

The spark plug seals under the valve covers need to be replaced periodically, but it seems unlikely that both of them would go bad on the same side at the same time. It seals against the valve cover though, so maybe it's not seated just right? I would take off the valve cover and see what's going on under there. Easy first thing to check. Does the engine turn over by hand without issue? ninja edit: Also is there oil all the way up on the inside of the spark plug boot thingy? Or just on the cylinder side of the spark plug?

13271AA071 for a MY01 Forester. Seems like a part that would be universal, but maybe wait on somebody that knows for sure. http://www.scoobymods.com/valve_cover_gasket-t5811.html -J

Niiiiice. I'm not sure if you've covered this already... but I assume you've looked into the local laws for putting in an engine that's older than the chassis? I remember reading about some issue of legality there but obviously I don't know the specifics. Good luck with your swap! -J

Oops nevermind. That video was of a turbo tranny. Turns out my install is right. I'm out of ideas. edit: Also I found that my car does roll on flat ground when in gear with the clutch pedal depressed. So I'm definitely not getting full disengagement. edit #2: Fairtax I get what you're saying about breaking the clutch in and earlier engagement and all that, but I can barely get shifted into ANY gear. It's not manageable until it gets broken in and I think something is wrong. BTW just to be clear I should be turning that rod clockwise so that it pushes the rod-end towards the rear of the car correct? I tried both ways and didn't have much luck with either.

Tried the rod adjustment and no joy. I also watched this video on how to properly install a clutch. At 2:10 it shows how to put in the throwout bearing and I know I did it wrong. Backwards, in fact. *Sigh* I hope it's not effed. I'm off to pull the engine forward...

@ bheinen: Thank you for your extremely helpful input. @ Fairtax4me: I'll try that tonight and post up my results tomorrow.

I'm as sure as I can be. Ordered the parts from Oakos for my car. I admit I didn't bounce part numbers or anything when I took the parts out of the box. I assumed they were right... I'll definately pull the clutch fork seal thingy off when I get home and take a look down there to see if anything looks messed up. It was getting too late last night to do any real troubleshooting. Ok I'll try that after checking my install. I have a sneaky suspicion it's something like this though. It's just disconcerting how right and awesome the clutch engagement feels once it's in gear so I really don't believe I biffed the install. <--- Famous last words eh?

Scavenging one of your other doorpins will certainly work, but this should be a super-easy fix if you are so inclined. The wiring for your driver doorpin will be easy to find after the kick panel is removed (especially if it still has half a doorpin attached ) and as long as you have ground trigger doorpins (which I believe you do) any plunger style switch of the right diameter would work. These can be had for very cheap. Good luck!

Hey guys. A little background: I recently pulled my motor for a bunch of high-mileage maintenance (instigated by a leaky headgasket) and while it was out I put on an ACT flywheel, pressure plate, and street disc. I also installed new OEM throwout and pilot bearings. I did not mess with the clutch hydraulics at all and everything worked fine before the enigine pull, sans a slipping OEM clutch. My car is a 2001 2.5 rs with 120,000+ miles. My problem is now I cannot shift into first. I can grind it into any other forward drive gear and reverse but even they are pretty hairy. I moved the car back and forth a few feet in the garage to test and engagement in second and reverse feel completely normal once I have it in gear. I haven't gotten a chance to see how it behaves on the road yet as I'm still flushing the coolant and doing other post engine install things... Please tell me this is something I can adjust so I don't have to pull the motor again! I'm going to be extremely upset with myself if I messed something up on the clutch install. Thanks!

Oh wow cool. It will be much easier to find a random 2.5L engine. Plus, like you said, it would be cheaper buying a compressor and seeing if it fits two or three times considering what they're selling new and remanufactured units for. Thanks again!

Lol oops. Ya I was definately remembering wrong for that reason. My mind holds onto things like a caulender.

Hey guys my girlfriend's mom just had her a/c compressor go out and I was going to find her a replacement. She has a 2003 Outback H6. I assume Subaru re-designed much of the engine and associated parts for the 3.0L H6. If I raid the junkyard, can I only grab an a/c compressor from a H6 subie? Thanks for your help!

Ya that seems to be the consensus on all the forums I read. Odd since the service manual spec is about twice that gap. Mine are at 0.006 and 0.008 cause that's what Delta Cams told me I should use for my re-grinds.