RMVR53

FIXED!!! I found another post on the Outback forum from 5 years ago. Reading the post is was as if the guy was me working on my car. His final post is the same as this... one tooth off.... Both cams were on time, but the crank was 1 tooth retarded (or you could say the crank was on and both cams were one tooth advanced). Its my fault as I put a new belt on when I did the water pump 6 months ago. Why it took 5-600 miles to trigger I don't really care right now. In any case, its fixed that and WOW...runs great, no miss and I've replaced a lot of parts that I probably needed to anyway so I'm happy. Thanks to all ya'll for direction, guidance and encouragement. Bill

ya know... one add'l - I thought. I wet test the wires for arcing and noticed something. The plug wires are Autolite. Think that could be an issue?

ok - my bad -P341 is a RANGE problem and not a fail. So what am I looking for next? At least it wasn't a fail this time!!

how about a screwy code reader. I picked up a cheap mini reader for the live readings. It gave me the last two codes. Reset it and just ran the 'test' again then read the code with my older INNOVA . Got a code...P341 Thats 3 after market CmPS and 2 Dealer Sensors. So either the reader is wrong or something is taking out or making the cam sensor fail under load.

ok...finally had time to play with this this am. Installed the CmPS last week and got no codes but problem persisted so starting from there. I had read on an Outback forum that another poster had a similar issue and he swapped out the upstream O2 sensor and the problem went away. So I installed a Bosch upstream O2 sensor. Still doing the same thing so I kept driving it till it thru a code. P0203 and P0103 - MAF sensor high reading and same for #3 injection circuit. Well, as best I remember a 2000 Subie doesn't have a MAF. Thoughts? hey....a least it didn't throw a CmPS sensor code!!! BIll oh...and this time I watched - the tach does "flinch" when it stunbles

no flickering lights - normal opp. Heck, as best I remember the tach doesn't even flinch

still have it and will put it back in tomorrow. really appreciate your help Sir Bill

went out and plugged in the reader to verify - no code...yet. Also cleaned the gear to make sure there was no debris to mess up the magnet getting a read on the sprocket. Also to verify - its only under load and over 3000 rpm

yes and no....it hasn't thrown a code yet but its doing the same thing. So I assume it will pop the code if I kept driving it

next?.... just installed a dealer item cam sensor. Same issue although it did take it about 6 miles before it started missing going up a hill under load. Bill

checked to ground from the two leads in the plug?

define significant...

ordered the correct sensor from local Subi dealer today. Be in tomorrow. I will say that the lil sucker (non-factory replacement) was hot as a pistol even an hour after the engine was shut off.

verifying the most recent question - is there anything that could take out the CmPS or make it act like one is failing? I read on another post that the bad/noisy alternator could trigger a failure. Bill

No they are not and I was beginning to think the same thing. Import Direct from O'Riliey's