Fairtax4me

It's the road. Not the car. Quit worrying about it.

You should have told them not to do the work and taken the car somewhere else. A rental car for a month is cheaper than a $2200 bill from a dealer. Cams not bent. Yes the journal is out of round, they almost always are. It's just the way the head wears as the cam rides in it. The seal is old and leaking. New cam seals and a timing belt kit cost $300 plus maybe $700 labor from a decent shop.

I think somewhere around 2000 they changed it. I grabbed a spare I had on a shelf and it had a 6203 bearing in it, but the one I put in my 96 a few years ago was deffinitely a 6204. Mame sure you get one with rubber seals to keep dirt/dust/water out. These bearings should not have metal seals for this application.

If the ECU loses MAF signal momentarily it will cut fuel, but will NOT set a code, especially on OBD1 computers. When the old square top MAF sensors fail, they drop the signal momentarily due to a cracked solder joint. This causes the engine to stall immediately and with no warning. The MAF can be repaired, but if you have a spare MAF just replace it and see if that fixes the problem.

Does it have a MAF sensor? Square top with a greenish label on the side?

The simple answer is that coolant leaked in from above. Radiator was replaced, possible that the old radiator split open and sprayed antifreeze everywhere under the hood. No other way for there to be a noticeable amount of coolant in the plug tubes without there being huge amounts of it in the rest of the engine oil as well.

It should only have the u-shaped washer. No other washers needed.

Ethanol in the gas degrades the rubber diaphragm seals inside. This will become very common as we see these cars getting older.

The barricade hose is newer stuff made for ethanol fuel. Seems to hold up fine the times I've used it.

It's not a regulator, it's a pulsation dampener. Dealer only part.

Depends how much fuel it's leaking! Need to get the car in the air and check the exhaust system. Could have a crushed pipe blocking exhaust flow. That will hurt your mileage.

First need to take that belt off and try to spin the compressor pulley by hand. Most often, a pulley bearing can be replaced with no actual AC work needed. If you do need a compressor you'll probably also be doing an R-134a conversion if that hasn't been done before. It's that or take it to a shop to have it charged with R-12 (common refrigerant used until 94) which is horribly expensive and can't be bought by an individual. Two main parts of the pulley assembly are the pulley itself and the clutch hub on the front face of the pulley. Try to Spin each part individually, and see if there's any roughness. If they won't turn separate of each other there is something jamming the two together which is most often parts of the clutch, and that usually causes the compressor to fail internally. If the pulley doesn't spin or spins rough, but the hub spins smoothly, it just needs a pulley bearing which can usually be bought online. The hub won't spin freely because it's what drives the internals of the compressor, but it should feel smooth when turned.

Is it automatic or manual trans? The automatic won't swap from 06 to an 01.

What Gloyale said or one of the hoses for the PCV/ breather tubes near the back corner of the bell housing might have broken or isn't connected properly.

There were some mid 90s models that were recalled and the dealers cut the front tie hooks off. Don't remember exactly which years, but I've seen a few cars where the front hooks are gone. It's not a guaranteed thing that they're gone, but not guaranteed they'll be on the car either.

6204 RSJ 6204 Rubber Sealed Journal Go to Napa and ask for that is SKF or something NOT made in China. Usually around $15-25 now for a decent quality bearing. The old bearing can be knocked out with a socket and hammer. New bearing knocked in with a socket that fits against the outer race of the bearing.

The bumper beam on a legacy will probably not be strong enough by itself to attach a tow bar. I would weld on a few 3/16" reinforcement plates that spread the load out from the attachment brackets.

Make sure timing marks are lined up correctly. Check valve lash, then do a leak down test to rule out a valve problem.

Maybe it thinks the door is open?

Year? Engine? Mileage? You just replaced the head gaskets?

Flip it upside down and point the bow towards the front. If you build rails for it to sit on make sure they're as far apart (front-back) as possible and solidly attached. Strap it down with big ratchet straps. Boat: Bust Out Another Thousand

Good to hear! Change that oil and get all that thinned out stuff out of there.

I don't understand how they just replaced the camshaft? If the valve spring caused the damage to the shaft, the head needed to be removed to inspect/replace the valve.

Could have been a new hire that was in an intern or apprentice? Slide bolts break, you pull the caliper off and replace the bracket. The bracket has to come off to remove the rotor anyway. Pads, rotors (are both scored/rusted?) caliper bracket and/possibly rebuilt caliper. Swap it quickly and you only need to bleed the one caliper. Braking ability won't be impaired, until the caliper decides to flip out and hang against the inner diameter of your wheel. Then you might lose the caliper, and the wheel.

Has an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body. Did this start suddenly or after doing some work? Which "Proper" TPS adjustments? Anything except the factory setting is improper. TPS is critical for the ECU to determine idle speed and idle air fuel ratio.