Fairtax4me

Checking the dipstick on the left side correct? Next to the starter? Walmart supertech Dex/Merc Multi-vehicle fluid is way cheaper and works just as well as Castrol IMO. Be glad its not CVT fluid at $15 a quart. Hot ATF expands and the level will rise. How high was the level when you checked it? Engine running? Where was it smoking from? Was there ATF leaking out of the dipstick tube?

These joints move less than 2° per revolution. The operating angle is very low, so there will be some sticky feeling in the joints. When you got the joint out was it dry inside or did it still have grease? If it still had grease in it the joint was fine. Noise is probably a wheel bearing, but since you now have it apart, there's a very low chance the driveshaft will still be in proper balance when put back together. A used driveshaft would be the cheapest option. Just the rear half is all you really need. The new driveshafts on Rock auto can be hit or miss. They might be perfect or might wobble like crazy. I tried two of them on my 96 and ended up spending $450 on a new shaft from the dealer.

Rust. Try removing the plastic trim on the side of the seat and you should be able to get some lubricant to the pivot.

Dust sheild on the bottom of the bell housing? I generally leave those off. Have you run it without the belts? Alternator, steering pump, AC compressor... Timing parts Exhaust heat shields rattling Last would be the trans Post a vid of the noise.

If you cut the line off, why didn't you put a 6 point socket on the fitting to remove it from the union? If the hose was clamped on its the return hose which carries very little pressure. That hose can be replaced with a section of generic ATF cooler hose from a parts store. There may be a crimp at the other end but that can be cut off if necessary.

How old are the spark plugs? Plug wires?

Looks nice with the mud grips! What wheels are those?

The socket is shorted inside. Assuming all other lights work properly when the socket is unplugged.

Never had or driven on a Bridgestone tire that I was happy with, and Turanzas wear out in no time. Michelin you almost can't go wrong with. If low noise is your concern make sure you get an all season style and not a performance type tire.

The slide pins usually stay in the caliper bracket, but I imagine that's also been removed if you have it down to the wheel bearing. Did the pin have grease all over it? Can't get a link to post but rockauto lists it as a "caliper guide pin". Similar, but they only show aftermarket versions.

Napa usually has a selection of various AC service valves. R-134 adapters are also an easy fix.

Nope. Drain tubes are really the only thing that's below the track assembly. Everything else is above it. Can't say I've ever had to lubricate one. They usually have silicone grease that pretty well stays put on the tracks. I suppose if someone had a dog or lived on an excessively dusty road the track could get some dirt in it, but other than removing any dirt/leaves from the drain areas there isn't much to do.

Caliper slide pin?

Sounds like it has a lockup solenoid failure. In the valve body of the trans. P0420 code could be from an exhaust leak between the y-pipe and the cats, or could be from a leak right after the cats. Or could be quite a few other things. Not worth worrying about unless you find and fix the trans/lockup issue. You're sure it's a 2.2? It's a doable swap but those 2.2s are alot less common.

Have to remove the pillar trim, the trim around the door opening, unscrew the sun visor and remove it, then you can drop the corner of the headliner down far enough to get to the drain tube. Grab it and wiggle it back up onto the nipple on the drain, zip tie it to hold it in place.

Put one of the bolts in a top corner, one in a bottom corner. Socket on the bolt and pound away with a 4lb hammer. Haven't had that method fail yet. On some vehicles with the proper selection of 1/2" socket and extensions you can turn the wheel and use the steering to help put pressure against the bolt, and then a combination of that and some creative hammering pops them out.

No that's on an automatic. I haven't had an MT apart in a while so the details are a bit fuzzy. The one I'm thinking of might actually be a bolt. Seems to me either the sector lever or the lever for the reverse checker had a pin like that, but it's not necessary to remove either of those to get the case apart. The shift rails in the case have roll pins that hold the shift forks on, but again not necessary to be removed. The only other pins I can think of off hand would be case alignment pins/dowels on the alignment pin for the mainshaft input bearing, but those are usually solid steel dowels.

The closed end "Acorn" style nuts might bottom out on the stud before getting to the wheel. Remove a wheel and spin one of the lug nuts all the way down on the stud and see how much room there is between the cone of the nut and the face of the brake rotor. More than 1/8 of an inch you probably want to get different lug nuts. I'd stick with a closed end style (to keep rust out) but longer.

One on the right is a cv joint pin. Which someone forced into a joint that was misaligned on the stub shaft. On the left may be a pin for the shift rail selector lever inside the trans.

Yeah it's a 6204 bearing. Like $8 at most parts stores. Knock the old one out and press the new one in. AC not working can be a lot of things. Usually low charge. Generally easy to fix and worth it for the cool air more than the 2mpg change in fuel economy.

It's for a Volvo. Linked in my post above.

Obviously not a tensioner for a Subaru. What does the rest of the kit look like? What's the Part number on the box? Any part number on the tensioner or packaging for the tensioner? Also, those tensioners are fine to re-use anyway. Just take your time compressing them. 5 minutes is about right with an 8" c clamp. If yours is leaking or has failed for some other reason get one from a junkyard. Otherwise get an Aisin OE replacement. https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKF-003-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYTQ0 Tensioner for a Volvo https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-85055?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-dayco&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwKqC7Zep1wIVjG5-Ch27bA1bEAkYByABEgLP0_D_BwE Better pics in that link

3/16" probably Take the crank sprocket to an auto parts store and match it up.

It will if the ECU thins the engine is cold. It won't turn the fans on. You can check engine temp with an OBD2 scanner to see what temp the ECU thinks the engine is. Fans should turn on around 204°F.