Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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It happens. The gear section of the output drum should just pull out of the trans. You might have to wiggle it some. The drums get grooved really bad and the grooves make it a pain to pull the broken section out because the clutch plates hang up in the grooves. Pull the while clutch drum assembly out of the tailhousing and turn it upside down, then wiggle the inner drum back and forth rapidly and it should start to slide out. If that doesn't get it, use a smal screwdriver or pick to pull the snap ring out of the outer drum. Then all the clutches should pull out together with the drum. -
Its just lubricated with lithium grease but the grease dries up after a while and there isn't any easy way to re-grease it. The only way to do it once the engine and trans are mated together is shoot some lithium spray grease down a bendy straw pointed at the back of the fork where the pivot is, but you have to remove the cable and pull the dust boot up to get in there. Get a new fork from Subaru. They're only about $35 last I checked, but be sure to also get the clips that go on it.
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Most likely a broken release fork. Lack of lubrication causes the fork to crack at the pivot. Check the input shaft for play in the push/pull direction. Most common issue with that trans is the mainshaft bearing wear out and let's the input shaft walk. Eventually it pops out of 4th gear, then 5th, then 3rd. If bad enough it can knock the center hub out of the clutch disc.
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Awesome! Glad it wasn't the transmission end because a transmission is way more expensive to fix! Good reason to avoid rebuilt axles.
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Press down in the center tab of the grill clips and pull out slighty to disengage them. Once the top 4 are free pull up on the grille to pop loose the two on the bottom. They always break, even if you're careful. They might already be broken. One screw in the top of the corner lamp, then pull outward to disengage the tab that clips into some plastic in the back corner. One bolt behind there as said above. Two on top and the one behind the grille, then the headlight slides out.
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Yes, front O2 voltage moves around quite a bit. Does it ever stall when you're coming to a stop? Has it ever stalled while it's just idling? The couple seconds loss of power sound like the symptoms of a MAF sensor failure on the older models. I do know there is a TSB for the MAF sensors on some of the 99-2001 models. If yours has a MAF, try wiggling the wires around and see if the engine stalls or runs differently.
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Have to be careful with the automatics because the inner axle stub can pop loose from the differential if you yank around on the axles too much. It sounds like this is what has happened. Check each side and see if one has slid out. Hopefully the damage will be limited to the axle stub and it hasn't chewed the splines out of the differential. AT temp light blinks when there is a fault with the transmission. In this case the front diff was spinning when the car wasn't moving, so the TCU was getting a signal from one of the speed sensors on the trans but since the car wasn't actually moving it set a code and turned on the light. That will go away once you get the problem fixed.
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In the US those are tail and brake lamps. If yours has single filament bulb sockets they're likely to be just brake lamps. The wiring going through the rubber flex in the top of the hatch could be broken.
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Reman ECM
Fairtax4me replied to scatgo's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
What's wrong with used? Any particular reason you think you need a new ECM? -
Ball joint or strut mount I would think. Strut mounts are expensive. Make a point of the clunk with the dealer and get it fixed with the rest of the stuff that's wrong. Can't pass state safety inspection with worn ball joints or strut mounts.
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Very glad to hear you're ok after reading a story like that! Was the guy drunk?! 1/2 mile is just about way too damn long of a distance for a truck thats actually trying to stop. Something about that just screams malicious if you ask me.
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Nope. Find a used one. I think there are a few threads in the classifieds right now with EJ starters for sale.
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Does that year have electronic throttle or a throttle cable? If you let it sit a while and cool off does idle return to normal?
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Did you replace the tensioner when you did the timing belt? Misfire codes are on the same bank which could mean its timing related.
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The bottom spring perches are offset. I suppose you could try it, but the spring will sit funny on the one side.
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Were the old plugs black and wet on the ends? Pull the fuel pump assembly out again and make sure the metal cap isn't cracked. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130624-2000-outback-fuel-pump-assembly-metal-cap-is-broken/
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Those automagics are godawful heavy. There are three separate units inside that housing.
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Yes there are different weights. Auto trans typically uses a heavier balancer to help smooth out engine vibration at idle. If the car has more than about 100k miles on it you won't notice the difference.
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The green wires are the test mode connectors for the ECU. Only used for diagnostic testing of the various relays and solenoids on the car. Leave them UNplugged.
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Easier IMO to just pull the trans from underneath, but that depends on what equipment you have. You really need a transmission jack for these or you need to build a small box that fits around the transmission pan to avoid damaging the solenoids in the pan if you just have a floor jack. You need a jack with about 18-20" of lift, and about 20" of clearance under the car to be able to slide the trans out from underneath. More depending on how large you build the box. To pull the lump together you still need to have a ton of clearance under the car to tilt the whole getup far enough to clear the front header panel. If its a car you dont care much about you can just cut the header panel out and make it much easier.
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Chock the wheels, set the parking brake tight, put up the front of the car on jack stands, and have someone shift from park to reverse while you listen for the noise under the hood and under the car. Likely to be either exhaust mount bracket/hanger, or a loose transmission or motor mount. Don't forget to check the dogbone mount on top behind the throttle body.
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Make sure the MAF sensor is plugged in all the way. The 00-04 legacy cars have problems with the metal cap on the fuel pump assembly. It splits and bleeds pressure back into the tank. Did you replace the entire assembly or just the pump itself?
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Did you ground any pins other than 1,2, or 5?
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Awesome! 2 hours is pretty quick!
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This is why you ALWAYS put a FUSE on any wire coming from the battery +. And you should ALWAYS disconnect the battery negative whenever doing ANY kind of electrical work. Lucky the car didn't just burn to the ground. You can't tape up a burned melted wire and expect it to still work. The internal resistance of the wire will not allow the proper amount of current to pass through to engage the starter solenoid like it should. Its fried, it needs to be replaced. It's really too hard to say what else might be damaged under the dash or under the hood because of that wire. Hopefully it will work after you replace the wire (get a 30 amp fuse holder and fuse to put at the battery end).
