Fairtax4me

The large black/yellow is your main battey ground. It should be attached to the same bracket as the other wire in the pic. That bracket goes on the upper starter mount bolt.

Make sure the o-ring didnt get cut or damaged. It does sound like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Has any other work been done recently? You might also try unhooking the battery for 20 minutes or so to reset the ECM. Sometimes when changing components the ECM can't respond properly to the new parts because it has altered its setting due to wear of the old parts. After reconnecting the battery start the engine and allow it to idle. Do not touch the throttle to keep engine speed steady. If the engine stalls just restart and continue idling until the radiator fans turn on, then turn back off. Turn off the engine, restart, then go for a short drive.

Ok. Do you have 12v reaching the actuator on pin 4 when the main switch is on? FSM test procedure for the actuator is to measure resistance on pins 1 to 4, 2 to 4, and 5 to 4, should be around 5 ohms. Pin 3 to 6 should be about 39 ohms. If any out of pec then the actuator is bad. The cruise module grounds pins 1, 2, and 5 on the actuator to set, increase, or decrease speed, but voltage can only be tested when driving. You should be able to test the actuator function by grounding those pins while the main switch is on.

The hood should have a VIN sticker on it somewhere that you can compare to the VIN on the dash. Auto Trans ratio for an AWD should be 4.11. If there was ATF in the rear diff, that's why it exploded. The diff needs GL5 spec hypoid gear oil. You really should check the front differential oil as well if you haven't already. Axles can be a nightmare if the outer joints are seized in the hubs. When I swapped the 4.11 diff into my legacy I didn't even unbolt any of the rear suspension. Just popped the axles out of the diff and rocked it side to side as I was lowering it out to get the axles out of it. You might want to just drop the diff out first and check the splines and the bearing surface on the axles before you decide to totally remove them. If they're not scored just leave them in the hubs. Rear diff. Remove the exhaust heat shield. Remove the rear section of the driveshaft to the diff and slide it forward out of the way. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the lower crossmember braces under the inner axle joints. Use a prybar braced against the bottom rear bolt on the bearing retainer ring to pop the axles loose from the diff. The easiest way is to put pressure on the bar and smack it with a big hammer to jolt the axle loose. Just pull them out far enough that the clips won't re-engage. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the diff in the cradle. Remove the 2 nuts on the studs that go through the diff support bushings on the back of the cradle. If the studs are not majorly rusty the whole thing will slide forward and you can lower the diff down with a floor jack. Once it's lowered about 6 inches you'll have enough room to slide it one way or the other and pull the inner axle joints out of it. An extra pair of hands helps. If you don't have a helper use a ratchet strap or zip ties or bungee cord or something to help secure the diff on top of the jack head. Its awkward and fairly heavy and will want to roll or slide around. If the bearing surfaces on the axles are scored then they'll need to be replaced. (the part with the helical cut groove for oil) If they're not scored or damaged clean the old oil off and any shavings or other metal and lubricate them with clean gear oil before putting them into the new diff.

Yes. Positive is common and the ground side is switched by the hi-lo dimmer switch. Do you have a multimeter? Check the three wires at the headlight plug for continuity to each other. Then check each for continuity to ground. The grounds will be the same color on both left and right sides. One of them will show continuity to ground when the dimmer isninntheblow beam position. One other will show continuity to ground when in the hi beam position. The power supply wire will be a different color on each side. As far as which wire goes where on the bulb, Search the bulb number online and see if you can find a diagram showing which pin on the bulb is common. 12v goes to the common pin.

Does the actuator have a vacuum pump on it or does it use engine vacuum? If you have a hand vacuum pump, make sure the actuator and the diaphragm hold vacuum.

Do you have 12v gettin to the sub switch? Do you get 12v on the two wires coming out of the black plug from the clock-spring when the switch is pressed? (Make sure the key is on) Pin 4 WB wire. ST circuit from the ignition switch goes to the start contacts IIRC. That will only get a signal when the key is turned to the start position, but it may be necessary to "wake-up" the module. Not 100% sure on that though.

The wire from B54 is the speed signal. Do you have the green/black wire connected to your speed sensor?

If it stalls and you have to re-crank its probably the MAF sensor. There's a common issue with those. If you can solder you can probably fix it because it's usually just a cracked solder joint where the pins from the connector join the pins on the board inside the housing. Otherwise, used ones are cheap and usually are fine.

Is it the round style with the cone? Did you replace the o-ring that goes on it?

Just swap the intake manifolds. Much easier than trying to swap wiring, and then you know you have everything the car is expecting.

Plenty of people use aftermarket kits from eBay. MizumoAuto is usually the least expensive and their kits are decent quality, though it is helpful to supplement their kits with a water pump and thermostat gasket from Subaru. TheImportExperts.com sells high quality kits that contain OE quality Mitsuboshi or Subaru OE Belt, NSK NTN or Koyo idlers and tensioner, and Aisin or Paraut water pump (with quality gaskets) usually for about 1/2 the price of going to the dealer. They also have less expensive kits similar in quality to the eBay kits.

Pretty much with any electrical repair if you fix one problem and then have a new problem, you have to go back to square one and recheck all the basics. It doesn't always work out perfectly the first time around.

5ppm seems pretty low if you ask me. There will always be wear metals in the oil no matter what you do. You have to determine what amount of wear is normal, that way when/if those numbers rise significantly you will be able to identify a potential problem. Sodium may be used in some oils as an anti-wear additive. If you search around enough there is probably some info about what additives are in the oil you currently use somewhere on the internet, likely on BITOG somewhere. I wouldn't worry too much unless you start seeing some of those numbers jump up into triple or even quadruple digits. You probably won't ever see oil and coolant mix if the head gaskets fail on that engine. The turbo head gaskets are what people use to fix head gasket problems on the non-turbo engines. IF for some reason you do get coolant seepage into the combustion chamber (not likely, but is the most common method of head gasket failure) the Potassium numbers will be sky high long before you ever see any mixing of coolant and oil.

Can you tell roughly what area it's coming from? Left/right, top/bottom? Sometimes you can take pieces off one at a time and see if the rattle stops. Then when you put it back together line the areas where screws or clips touch with a bit of fabric tape.

Only one rubber hose at each wheel. If your pedal drops more than half travel under hard braking you have air in the system or the rear drums are not adjusted properly (if equipped).

If you use it sparingly its fine, and keeps the belt from drying out and cracking. Do NOT use belt dressing to try to stop a belt from squealing. If it's squeaking its worn out or loose and should be tightened or replaced.

Bosch what? Super Single Platinum, waste of money. Double platinum, fine but cost more and not necessary. +2 or +4, neither of these work in subarus NGK plain copper or V-power copper plugs are recommended for that engine. Never heard of OMS, can't speak to their quality. NGK or Denso are highest quality. I've used Standard Ignition and Carquest wires on these with no problems. Amazon has knock sensors for good prices. Local parts stores often charge very high prices ($80-100) for the same part you can get on eBay.

Gotta check those fuses. Glad you got it fixed!

If you have a code for the knock sensor it's because the ECU is not getting a signal from it. Knock sensors are a common failure and cheap to replace. Less than $20 on eBay. Erratic signal from the knock sensor can cause hesitation, and possibly set misfire codes, but usually misfires are caused by spark plugs or wires. The wires on these can be tricky to get clicked down all the way. Also these cars will not run well with very cheap wires. If you bought the cheapest set, take them back and exchange them for a higher quality set of wires.

If there's an electrical fault with the MAF it's usually a poor solder joint between the connector pins and the board. Any other problems will be due to failed components on the PCB, which are difficult or impossible to identify and repair. Like Gary said, a used MAF is a good option since they don't fail that often.

If the wiring to the solenoid is damaged, inserting the fuse may not work, but its worth a try.

Or you could make him fix his own car!

Crimp connectors are fine. The relays for the lamps are in the fuse panel under the hood. One for left and one for right. It should say on the label. You can try swapping them and see if the problem follows. The fuses for the headlamps are in the same box. Make sure they're ok just for good measure. The blue/red wire just runs up the harness and into the fuse panel. If swapping the relays doesn't change the issue, find that wire in the fuse box and check voltage there (you have to unbolt the box and flip it over) while the lights are on.

Sound like you have it wired correctly. I don't remember which relays are where for the headlamps. How did you connect the wires on the new connector? Crimp connectors?