Fairtax4me

Yep. Fluid pressure going into the right side of the rack causes it to push to the left, this causing the wheels to be pushed toward the left. The right end seal is what blew out. I have to guess either the spool valve was damaged or sticking, or the torsion rod that goes through the valve was twisted or bent.

Oh jeez, I haven't seen that movie in ages! I'm more of a Pulp Fiction fan.

And you have the wires connected properly on the new connector? They match the passenger side?

Transfer solenoid is in the tail housing at the back of the trans, but the wiring runs along the bottom of the pan before going back to the solenoid. Make sure the big connector for the trans wiring harness is plugged in all the way and has no bent pins or dirt in it. If that checks out I'd suggest dropping the pan to check for damaged wiring.

You need to check into the lemon laws in your area dude, seriously. Is it even past the 30 day warranty yet? If its not the dealer needs to fix all this. If there's no warranty, this cars picture is in the dictionary next to the word lemon. There's just too much wrong with that thing. Did you have this thing checked out by a mechanic before you bought it?

I've noticed the key on my 96 is occasionally pretty warm, and the lock cylinder and surrounding area in the steering column gets warm. Possible the ignition switch is getting warm due to excessive current draw. Do you have any extra electrical consumers like bigger stereo, GPS system, added on lights, etc. that might be pulling extra amperage when the key is on?

Yes, there is an ATF filter in the fender behind the battery. I don't remember the fluid spec for the 05, but it should say in the owners manual. You don't have to use Subaru fluid, just use a fluid that matches the spec. Coolant hoses run to the manifold to keep the throttle plate from freezing to the bore in wet weather below freezing.

Is that the Hokey pokey?

That kind of depends. The thermostat could be closing more than it should and blocking coolant flow, and the guage will reflect that as coolant flows out of the engine. The thermostat on these cars is on the inlet side of the water pump, meanings its on the cold side, where cool coolant from the radiator has to flow across the thermostat before it goes into the engine. This is where the importance of using a real subaru OE design thermostat comes in. The proper design doesn't react as quickly to small changes in temperature. A 10° drop in temp will make a cheapo aftermarket thermostat completely close, and it won't open again until the engine gets 20-30° hotter, at which point it may go wide open and allow too much coolant flow, which just causes the cycle to repeat. The Subaru thermostat will close slightly, but not completely, which means it will regulate temperature more evenly, rather than giving the roller coaster effect. The thermostat is a moving part, so even if you have a Subaru thermostat in the car, if its old it could be worn out or is staying in a closed or partially closed position for longer than it should. Thermostat opening temp for these is 170°. This is the point when the thermostat just starts to open. Normal operating temp is 190-195°. The thermostat should be wide open at 195°. Your temperature guage will read right around the middle for any temperature between 170° and about 210°. The guage is designed NOT to fluctuate greatly when in that center range, even though the coolant temp may change 10-15 higher or lower within that range. The difference on the guage between the middle and the very top is from about 210° to about 230°. The radiator fans will turn on at 204°. They will run until the coolant temp drops to 194°. At 204° the guage will still show dead center. So if the guage is showing hot, use an infrared temperature gun to verify the coolant temp coming out of the block just before the upper radiator hose. If its above 204, and the fans are Not running there could be a problem with the ECT sensor that the computer uses. If it's below 204° but the guage still shows hot, the ECT sensor for the guage is probably faulty. I believe on the 01 the temp sensors are built into the same unit. If the fans are running, guage shows hot, and temp on the IR gun shows higher than 204°, it's either the thermostat isn't opening properly, or the water pump isn't moving enough coolant.

I have a manual for 92 but no wire diagram for the AC system. If you search around here there are some links to sites with factory service manuals for almost every year and model subaru.

Yes, swap the manifolds. Use your old one on the new engine. Typically the manifold and wire harness stay with the car on any engine swap.

Several ideas here. Coolant level low, Thermostat is sticking Water pump impeller is worn, Fans are not working at both speeds, Fans are easy to test. Poke your head under the dash and find the two green plugs. Plug them together and turn the key to On. This will cycle the fans on low-high and off in about 2 second intervals. Make sure both fans work at both speeds. Turn key off and unplug the green connectors. Once fan operation is verified, plan on replacing the thermostat. You have to get a GOOD thermostat for these. Subaru OE or an equivalent design such as Gates or Stant Exac-stat. Big difference between one of those and a cheapo. Take the car to an auto parts store and have the check engine light scanned. Even if it's not on, there are still codes stored that can help. AC probably just needs a recharge.

I've been chasing a consistent pull to the left for about three years now in my 96. The one with the lift. I tried everything, new struts, replaced the knuckle with a known good, replaced control arms with known good, (both from my other car) loosened the front subframe and shoved it as far as I could from one side to the other, changed front caster, camber, toe, drilled out the holes in the strut towers so I could move the strut-hat around, played with rear wheel toe, had the car aligned by a local shop that specializes in alignment, and more stuff that I can't think of right now. Nothing ever phased it, not even a little bit. Always had the same pull to the left no matter what I did. I got the alignment screwed up like a football bat messing around with it, and it has eaten my front tires. Finally last week I'm driving home from work on Friday afternoon. Pulling into the bank parking lot three miles from home I hear the steering pump start to whine. I stop and open the hood and the fluid reservoir is practically empty. Weird, because I've never had any problems with the pump or the fluid level. Absolutely no leaks, no fluid anywhere under the car. Completely dry. I always have a quart of Dex3 fluid in the trunk, so I fill up the reservoir, deposit my check and head home, 3 miles away. Pulling into my driveway the pump starts making noise again. Open the hood, no fluid in the reservoir! Where is my fluid going?!?! No leaks, drips, nothing wet under the car at all! Totally dry! Steering rack boot on the right side is puffed up like a balloon! So anyway, got a junkyard rack from a 97 Outback with 160k. Put it on today. Set the toe with my home-brew alignment stick, took it for a drive. Let go of the wheel, guess what?! Car drives perfectly dead straight line. No more pull to the left!!!!!!! :banana: Several beers will be enjoyed as I burn the old rack with a torch! There's supposed to be a moral or some kind of helpful advice here, but I'm just jumping for joy right now because the damned thing is finally fixed!

Its a quick connect fitting. If it has a sleeve, usually you just push the sleeve into the fitting and it will pop loose. I usually use a wrench that just fits around the line to push the fitting with. It may require some PB or other penetrating oil. And try pushing the fitting together and twisting slightly before pushing the sleeve in.

I'll have to look at a diagram later to see what else that fuse does. Its possible you have a short in the fuse box itself that is causing the fuse to blow. What year model and engine?

Good advice from Jeszek there. Are you testing with the black meter lead connected to battery - terminal? It kind of sounds like you have the socket wired incorrectly. With the black meter lead on battery-, headlamps turned on and plugged in, you should have 12v (or battery voltage) on the red/blue wire regardless of hi or low beam position. With low selected, you'll see 12 on the red/blue and 12 on the red wire because the hi beam ground is . You'll have something like 1.0v on the yellow/blue. With high selected, that will be flipped, you'll see 12 on the red/blue and yellow/blue because the low beam ground is removed, and you'll see about 1.0v on the red wire.

Another blower problem yesterday on a 07 FJ cruiser. The cabin filter was disgusting. But on this one there is a tray thing that was supposed to hold the filter which was gone, so it was just kind of sitting on top of the blower motor. A bunch of crud had made it past the filter and into the heater core/evaporator core box and clogged the drain tube. The resistor module and blower motor had both been flooded with water and rusted. Module was toast. Motor would work for a few seconds if I spun it by hand. I did manage to get it working after removing it but I dont think it will last long. I sprayed contact cleaner and wd40 all down into the motor case to try and loosen up the brushes. Shot Compressed air in it to help remove some of the scale. Got it to work OK when it was connected straight to a battery but back in the car I had to smack the case to get it to spin at more than about 1/2 speed. Car belongs to a woman with two small children, one with special needs, so she needs the AC in our hot and humid weather. Toyota here in town had a resistor for $30, but neither Toyota or any or the parts stores could get the motor ($160 from Toyota, about $100 aftermarket) until next week.

Handle for the hood latch?

Most brakes are designed to work well in cold temperatures, which means they will NOT work well once they get HOT. If you're a heavy braker, you need a more performance oriented pad and rotor set that work at higher than normal temperatures, and you need stickier tires.

TCU codes have to be pulled manually with a secret handshake. Search here or google for Subaru TCU codes and you'll find the method. Good chance one or more solenoids or wiring is damaged inside the trans from putting a jack under the pan. There is literally less than 1/4" between the pan and the solenoids in some places.

Won't open from inside or outside? Have you locked and unlocked and tried to open it?

Partsgeek.com has Beck Arnley front and rear bearings for $80 and $94 respectively. Rockauto has Timken front and rear for $75 and $73.

Those single roller bearings are mistakes in AAPs listings. Look to be differential bearings, but definitely not wheel bearings for a Subaru. Or at least not for your Subaru.

It won't be. The yellow/blue wires are spliced together, as in two wires become one. From that splice the ground path for both low beam bulbs is the same wire. One bulb works fine, which says that wire (from splice to the dimmer switch) is fine. The problem is between the bulb that doesn't work and the splice.

You just need to follow it back to the splice in the harness which should only be a few inches away from where the three wires go into the rest of the harness. Cut the bad out and wire in new from the splice to the connector.