Fairtax4me

They're usually easy enough to remove. Might try heading down to a u-pull-it junkyard near you and start swapping some around. Maybe one from another car will work better?

Red/blue is the power for both filaments. You should be testing with the black probe connected to the battey negative. Red probe to the blue/red, black on battery -, see what voltage you get. Compare that to battery voltage to determine voltage drop through the circuit. Should be less than 1 volt difference. So assuming 10.5 at the battery, you should have no less than 9.5 at the headlight plug. This is probably a problem with the ground wire for the low filament which should be the yellow/blue wire. Possible the wire is corroded somewhere further back in the harness. To check that you're going to test voltage drop on the y/b wire with the lamp plugged in and turned on. You need to pull back the rubber cover on the plug to get access to the back of the terminals. Black probe to battery -, red probe to the y/b wire terminal. Compare that voltage to that on the other two wires. Now switch from low beam to hi beam and check all three again. When a circuit is properly grounded and is in operation the voltage should disappear after the load (the lamp) indicating a good ground path. If there is a large voltage remaining after the load this means the ground path is poor, meaning there is a loose or corroded connection or damaged wire somewhere between the load and the ground point, which is the headlamp dimmer switch in this case. But since we know the lamp on the other side works fine, the dimmer switch is not the problem. The yellow/blue wires join just a few inches back in the harness on the left side. Likely the problem is going to be between the lamp connector and the splice where the wires join, or at the splice.

That fuse doesn't power the compressor directly. It supplies power to the control side of the AC and fan relays right next to it. Pull the fuse box up and look underneath for any chafed or cut wires.

I didn't even think you could buy just the bearing for the newer cars.

I've had good luck with Beck Arnley bearings. Ordered a set of B/A rear bearings for my 95 fwd and they were reboxed Subaru parts, complete with Fuji check logo on the hub. Ymmv Timken makes decent bearings. Not as good as SKF or NSK, but Timken doesn't cost as much either. The really cheapos, partsmaster, FEQ, drivewrong. Made in China stuff won't last as far as you can throw it.

The spring goes on the shift linkage where it attaches on the side of the trans. There's a large washer with a hook/eyelet. The washer holds the shifter stay rod, which the large black shifter stay bushing is pressed into. The spring runs from the eyelet on the washer to a similar eyelet on the shift joint. It centers the shifter between 3-4 position when you let go of it. The white bushing is for the pivot at the base of the shift lever in the console. The springs rust and fall off, but the other two there hardly ever really go bad. The blue/purple bushings in the u-joint at the end of the shifter rod are what wear out and cause about 95% of the slop. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_58/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/ Shifter pictures 92-96 the bushings you need are circled numbers 7 and 8. 97 later they are built into a one piece joint and you have to buy the whole joint.

More likely to be a leaking oil separator plate, which takes just as much labor to replace as a rear main seal because its right next to it. An outback in similar condition here could sell for $1,000-1,500, depending on how much rust is on it. If you feel it isn't worth it to try to fix, craigslist it. Someone who knows these cars will certainly buy it.

Even for a turbo engine that compression seems too low to me. Retest with all 4 spark plugs removed. Unplug the injectors and the coil. Throttle should be wide open during cranking.

About $0.60 per gallon more for premium over regular here. A couple of the high end stations are closer to $0.70. No knock sensor is no excuse! My old Ford ranger didn't have a knock sensor. Neither did any of my other American cars built pre-1990 for that matter. Saab had turbo engines with no knock sensor that use a really neat (expensive) ignition system that detects the conditions that can create knock before it happens.

Shouldn't be a big deal. I don't remember the exact difference in compression between the two, but it's not like you're going from 9:1 to 11:1. If you notice any pinging (probably won't) then you might try switching to the next higher grade fuel. Running premium is overkill though unless you have it tuned to really need it.

Use phase 1 head gaskets. The coolant ports on the heads are different between phase 1&2 and the gasket needs to match the heads. Plus the phase 1 composite gaskets just work better. Fel-pro gaskets are the same as OE for the 90-98 2.2 at half the cost. 93 will have the tappet style cams and rockers. You can swap those for a set of roller rockers and matching cams from a later year to free up some extra power. 95-96 if you want to keep hydraulic lash adjusters. 97-98 if you would like solid(screw-type) lash adjusters. There's a minor power advantage to the solid adjusters because of reduced drag on the camshaft while the valves are closed. Get re-ground cams from Delta and you'll make a few more horses too.

98 short block between 00 heads. Only easy way to make it work. If Trans-x isn't working, the days are numbered for that transmission. Worn o-rings on the pump cause the shift delay. The hard shifting could have been from a blockage or sticky valve that has worked its way loose. Perhaps the blockage has now deposited itself elsewhere.

Have replaced a few of these in Jeep and dodge vehicles as well. The old style 4 speed resistors work differently than the ones with variable fan speed and/or automatic fan and temperature control. They also cost a lot less.

The old ones that you had to replace the engine every 40k miles? Because they would start burning so much oil?!? Kidding aside (not really), yes there are a few years of Subarus that have issues with consuming oil. Keep an eye on the oil and other fluid levels (As should be done anyway), and you'll be fine.

The gusset seal. They're about $70 from the dealer last time I bought one. Its a whole chunk of a thing that also includes part of the front window track. Have to remove the door panel to replace it, but the door panel is easy to remove on these cars.

Fuel pressure regulator has nothing to do with this code. This code is related to a solenoid near the fuel tank which opens or closes at certain times to allow vapor pressure to build in the fuel tank. This is used to determine if the Evap system has any leaks. The tank is pressurized, then the Evap purge control solenoid is opened and the pressure drops as vacuum is applied to the tank. Pressure is monitored by the fuel tank pressure sensor. The fuel tank pressure control solenoid is near the right front corner of the fuel tank. Use the green connectors under the dash to put the ECU in Test mode. Check the valve to see if it clicks when in test mode. Remove one of the hoses from the valve and see if you can blow air through as it clicks. Air should flow then stop in correlation with the clicking. If no air flows the valve is clogged or stuck closed. If air flows all the time the valve is stuck open or has some kind of obstruction keeping it from sealing. If the valve doesn't click. Use a multimeter to check for 12v reaching the connector. The ECU controls the ground side. Check for the ECU to switch the ground by probing both pins (red on one, black on the other) with the connector unplugged. Voltage will switch from 12 to 0. If the valve clicks and air flows through it, there is probably a clog in the hoses somewhere between the valve and the tank, or between the valve and the evap canister.

ACL Race bearings are the ones most people here recommend.

2009 Nissan Sentra in the shop today with inop. blower motor. Two other shops told the owner she needed the entire HVAC box because the blower is not replaceable without removing the whole box, which requires removing the dash to replace. I spent about 30 minutes dissecting and found the blower worked fine when the Resistor module was bypassed. Needs a blower resistor, simple fix! But why, when this 6 year old car only has 75k miles, has this part failed? Cabin air filter. Totally clogged with leaves, dirt, and dog fur. Blower resistor module gets hot when the fan is running. The blower fan blows air across it to keep it cool, until the airflow gets blocked by leaves and crud. Insufficient airflow, module overheats, burns out, no more fan! After some researching found out this particular unit has a thermal fuse. If it gets too hot the fuse burns, and then no more fan, but you can't replace just the thermal, you have to replace the whole module, which is about $120 from Nissan. (Plus a couple hours labor to diagnose and replace it) Or if you're adventurous, you can take it apart and solder in a new thermal fuse. Not all resistor modules can be repaired though. Change that $10 filter once a year and save yourself the expense of having to buy an expensive resistor block! At the very least pull the thing out and knock the dirt out of it. Sorry, it's not a Subaru story, but its helpful advice for any car with a cabin air filter!

Wash the car with regular dish soap first and see how much comes off. Palmolive takes all kinda of crud off. Next, use a clay bar kit. Its easy, takes some time but it's chemical free, safe for you and your paint. I think Meguiars has a whole kit that you can get at most parts stores with the bar, some spray stuff, and easy directions for use. It's very important to keep the clay and paint lubricated to keep the bar from sticking. You'll see the crud collecting on the surface of the clay. Fold the clay every so often to keep the surface clean. Clean clay cleans the paint better. You can clay pretty much the whole car. The glass, the headlights and tail lights, and any trim that has a smooth surface. Try searching youtube for videos showing how to use a clay bar.

I wouldn't worry about it too much. How many miles on the car? Good chance it has the original coolant which is supposed to be good for about 100,000 miles. (although I personally think it should still be changed every 30,000. More frequent cooling system maintenance reduced problems with leakage, corrosion, and gasket failure.) But anyway, if its near or over 100,000 miles the coolant should be changed anyway. You don't need to totally flush the system, just drain whats in the radiator and the engine (replace the thermostat for good measure), and refill with Subaru Blue mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

So the engine revs up higher, but the car doesn't go any faster? Clutch is slipping. Was the clutch replaced when the transmission was replaced?

If you have the small round bushings, about 3/4" O.D. Those are the ones that go bad and cause all the slop. Not hard to replace, just tight to get access to. Oil leaks are a subaru trait. Plan a weekend to pull the engine and do a big reseal. Valve cover gaskets, cam plug o-rings, separator plate, access cover o-ring, oil pump and crank & cam seals. Timing belt and all that can be done at the same time since you have to remove it to reseal the oil pump anyway. Power steering pump is easy to rebuild. About $35 for the seal kit from a dealer (probably less if you get the parts at cost). Comes with all the seals you need for the main body and the reservoir o-rings. Just need to add on a 6203 sealed ball bearing. Napa carries the bearing. Rockauto has good deals on their new brake kits. Hard to beat the prices there. eBay knock sensors usually work well. I got a bum one once but they're like $10 so hard to complain about that. P0420 code may just be because the car needs a tune-up. NGK Plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, Subaru PCV valve (don't cheap out on this), and check over all of the vacuum hoses and breather hoses that attach to the intake, heads and PCV.

Check the 20 amp fuse for the sub fan in the dash fuse panel.

Won't hurt it.

Only good way to check that bearing is to remove the driveshaft so you can spin the bearing by hand and see if it makes noise. The rubber cushion around the bearing is soft and is easy to move around, that's normal. More than likely your howl/whine noise is from one of the differentials. Try changing the diff fluids and see if the noise changes or subsides. Drain each into separate clean containers so you can check the fluid for sparklies. The front pinion bearing is a somewhat common failure on the automatics, and can make a whining or grinding noise because it causes the front pinion clearance to change.