Fairtax4me

Yes. That behavior will happen if the clutch is not releasing all the way when the pedal is pushed. She can try adjusting the cable. The release lever is on top of the transmission on the drivers side. Adjustment only requires two wrenches. One to hold the adjusting nut and one to loosen the lock nut. Should be 10 and 12mm unless someone changed the originals. The release lever is a common failure and requires removal of the engine or trans to replace. Basically a clutch job.

Probably a wheel speed sensor. If one sensor shows that the wheel has stopped or is turning significantly slower than the rest the ABS will engage when you press the brake pedal. If that wheel speed signal does not change the ABS module determines the sensor to be faulty, so it deactivates the ABS after that until the key is turned off. Once turned back on the ABS will be active again until the fault occurs. Poke under the dash and find the small black 6 pin plug over near the green test mode plugs. There's a couple of black ground wires with bare spare pins taped into the same harness. Pull those down and insert one of the ground spades into pin 6 of the black plug. 1--||--2 3-4-5-6 Turn the KEY on and the ABS light will blink any stored codes. Code 11 is the start code and will display first, just showing that the module is in read-mode. Stored codes will display after that in the order which they were stored. (Newest to oldest) The first digit will be slow blinks, the second digit will be fast blinks. You have to pay close attention because the second digit of the code blinks very quickly. To clear codes after reading: leaving the key On, remove the ground pin, and insert the ground spade into pin 6 three times, (leaving the pin inserted for at least 0.2 seconds, then removed for at least 0.2 seconds) then remove the pin.

Misadjusted clutch cable or cracked clutch release fork.

Rattling could be the bearing in the idler pulley for the AC belt.

I put a set of Moog bolts on mine. 12.9 grade.

Probably the blower motor failing. Try wacking it with a screwdriver handle... or your foot. See if it starts working again.

You won't find a new one already painted. Used would be the only way to get that. Try some junkyards in your area. Could also try Car-part.com

Drop the exhaust and driveshaft.

The meter has to be capable of blocking DC voltage while measuring AC. Many commercial meters don't do this because there's no need to block DC in household or commercial wiring.

Make sure the small wire to the starter solenoid is plugged in securely.

I think that should be covered in the user manual for the NAV system. It's possibly a "safety" feature to keep you from looking at the screen while driving.

How about year and model? Is it cable actuated or hydraulic? Did you replace the U clips that hold the release bearing to the fork?

Are you driving mostly flat terrain? I tend to drive 55-60 most of the time in my 96, but being smack in the foothills of the Appalachians the best I normally get is around 27-28.

99 forester came with an SOHC 2.5. If you have a DOHC (4 cams total) engine then you need an ECU from a 96-98 Legacy or 98 Forester. No specific ECU for MT vs AT. The difference is in the wire harness.

Lots of possibilities. Starting at battery power and ground connections, clean and tight. Next would be the plugs for the engine wire harness on the bellhousing. Make sure they're clean and plugged in all the way. Check the main ECU ground on the intake manifold.

Three relays way up in the corner are the fuel pump, main relay, and the blower motor relay. So you jumpered the fans to the battery and they all worked? The left fan (main fan) will only engage by itself when the engine coolant temp reaches 204°F. I believe both should run when the AC is on.

Back flush the heater core. New Subaru thermostat, or OE equivalent. Gates makes one, Stant has the Exact-stat line which is the large style thermostat. Don't use a regular $3 Stant cheapo. New radiator and heater hoses. Water pumps degrade as well. I've seen the impellers rusted and starting to fall apart. That's part of a timing belt job, which is a good idea if you don't know how many miles are on the belt or idlers.

Finance trickery. They show you the payment you'll make with the warranty INCLUDED (and already approved for the loan for that amount) rather than having to explain how much extra you have to pay in order to get the extended warranty. It's an easier sell if the price is already figured into your monthly payment. Then when you decline that, they can try to set you up on the insurances (motor club, accidental death/dismemberment, etc .) because even with the insurance extras you'll still have a lower payment than what they showed you with the warranty. That's not to say that some of those insurance policy's aren't a great deal. Some of them are quite inexpensive. Consider a $100,000 life insurance policy for about $1,000 spread over your 5 year loan term. Less than $20 per month. Just an example, as those can vary widely. Different conversation though. A major consideration for extended warranty is whether its a factory (Subaru) extended warranty, or an aftermarket. Generally if you're buying brand new, it's going to be a factory warranty. If you're buying Cerified Pre-Owned, a CPO extended warranty will typically be a factory warranty. Buying used with a 3/3,000 basic warranty, the seller will usually be pushing an aftermarket extended warranty. Cost. Mercedes' basic extended warranty covers you for only 1 extra year (48 months vs included 36) , but the warranty mileage jumps substantially. The second tier option covers you for 2 extra years, but up to 120,000 miles IIRC. BMW is similar, though I believe BMW also offers a 3 year extension. These longer mileage warranties cost quite a bit more than the standard 1 year extension, so its important to compare apples to apples (time and mileage extension) when comparing warranty cost to another manufacturer. Also consider if you'll drive far enough to make good use of that warranty. If you only drive 10k miles a year, probably just gonna be throwing your money away on a 100k mile warranty.

No airbag codes via OBD2 on that year. Have to pull them manually, but the process is easy. Find the small black 6 pin plug under the dash, and there are two ground spades taped into the harness for that plug. Plug one of those grounds into a pin in the plug, and turn the key on, then the SRS light will blink the codes. I don't remember which pin it is off-hand, but you should be able to find it by searching for how to pull SRS/Airbag codes. Does your horn button work? Does the cruise control work? Common cause for an airbag light is a bad clockspring behind the steering wheel. Often the cruise or horn will stop working sometime around the same time the airbag light comes on.

If you throw too many wrenches you won't have any left to work with! Leakdown tests are usually done at 100 psi. 100 psi through the leakdown regulator and the leak guage shows percentage of leak based on how much pressure stays in the cylinder. So at 100 psi, if the cylinder maintains 90 psi, that's a 10% leak. Which can be normal depending on the engine manufacturer. A quick and dirty leakdown test can be done with a compression guage hose. Take the shrader valve out of the end, thread it into the cylinder, then stick the shop air hose on it.

It's the Subaru jerk-and-lurch. You'll get the same with even the most minor changes in throttle in first and second gear if trying to maintain a low speed (such as in traffic). Eventually you get the hang of it and you can shift 1-2 with no trouble, but it takes practice. And being in traffic is almost impossible to shift in a manner that avoids the lurch. Not much you can do about the lurch. There are a dozen places in the drivetrain where a little bit of wear creates a little bit of slack, and all those little slack places add up to one big change in momentum by the time the motion from the engine finally takes up all the slack and gets to the wheels. If you've ever been on (or near) a train when the engineer had to slam on the brakes, and felt the cars crash together in succession as the slack in all the couplers gets taken up. (Sucks if you're on a car near the end of the train) Same idea going on in the Subaru drivetrain.

Still available from Subaru. Lists for about $50 though. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_25/cooling_system/water_pump/ JB weld will seal it up if you can get it clean enough to adhere well. A hose clamped over it may hold up for a while, but it will continue to rust and may become an issue again. A used one is always an option, especially of you can get your hands on a rust free part. Might try the classifieds here if you can wait for someone to ship to you.

There was an option for a metal one on the Outbacks, but they were very rare to see. As far as I know there was never a plastic guard of any type on the 95-99 Legacy or Outback, because of the proximity to the exhaust pipes. There was a guard on the 98-99 Forester, but it hangs down pretty low and would probably drag on everything if put on a Legacy. There are a few places that sell light duty aluminum skid plates for decent prices.

You might consider getting a short USB extension wire that you can plug into the unit, then place the other end somewhere easier to get to, such as by the cup holder or in the center console storage area.

AND Californey emissions.