Fairtax4me

Need to find out if your car has CA or Federal emission. This will be on the emissions sticker on the hood, assuming the hood is original. Order the sensor to match. Front and rear sensors are different. Universals will only work if you car meets Federal emission.

You replaced the original engine?

That is quite a bit of extension. Whats the reason for wanting that? The higher concern than tongue weight is how will that extension affect the way the forces exerted by the trailer are transferred to the car. By moving the leverage point further away from the vehicle, you're multiplying the amount of force the trailer can exert. That extension is going to allow the trailer weight to push the car around more. When braking, it will cause the car to lift more, causing a loss of traction between the tires and the road surface. When turning, the trailer will have more leverage to push the back of the car toward the outside of the curve, especially if you need to brake in a curve. (Could cause the car to spin out/jack-knife) You can weld an extension to the trailer and avoid that problem, because the leverage will be in the same place in relation to the vehicle.

Heater hose as mentioned before, or the small hose that runs from the bypass pipe to the throttle body on that side. If you're in the rust belt, the bypass pipe itself could have rusted out and split or have a pinhole leak. Refill the system with water and see if you can see any dripping from the hoses there to narrow down the source of the leak.

I really don't understand why they pulled the trans. It's not necessary. It's another hour of work to get everything on the trans disconnected, unplugged, pull the driveshaft out, remove the trans crossmember. Then you have to put it all back together once it's back in. If they put the transmission on the floor or used a jack under the trans pan (even a transmission jack) the transmission pan can be damaged and damage wiring and electronics inside the trans. Also the pan can be pushed too close to the pickup filter and block the flow of fluid. If there are any transmission codes the AT temp light will blink on startup. Trans codes have to be retrieved manually. It can't be done through the OBD2 port. There should be instructions in the service manual for how to get TCU codes in the AT diagnostic or troubleshooting section.

If you can, make a video of the vibration and post a link here.

Yes.

Fuel hose is fine. Pretty much any hose that carries fuel or oil will handle antifreeze no problem.

The lower grille area is actually the main entry way for fresh air to get to the radiator. The engine doesn't draw any air in through that opening, so getting water there isn't going to hurt anything, but you should try to keep it free of leaves and other debris. (like raccoons and birds) I say that jokingly, but I have had to scrape critter guts out of the lower grille of my car on several occasions.

Lots of Subarus use Bosch sensors as OE. But I've seen Denso as well. I generally try to match what's on the car if I think its the original. I've seen plenty of cars have issues with replacement Bosch sensors, and have seen plenty more with problems from cheapo no-name sensors.

Right. The 4 relays in the underhood box are the AC compressor relay, main fan 1&2 (Low and high speed) and sub-fan 2. I had forgot the sub-fan 1 relay was inside in the dash fuse panel or I would have mentioned that before. Sub-fan or AC sub-fan is the one on the right. If you think it may be an amperage issue check voltage at the plug with the fan plugged in. The fuse for the sub fan is in the dash fuse panel. But since you have voltage reaching the fan plug, the fuse and relay are probably fine. I don't like to see those crimp on splice connectors either. They're quick and easy, which is why people use them, but they leave the wire open to corrosion and they cut some of the strands which lowers the capacity of the wire. In most cars the wiring is already designed to just barely handle the amount of current in the circuit because copper is expensive. Losing 10% of a wires carrying capacity can cause a lot of heat from all those electrons trying to squeeze through.

I would have to guess that the original engine had EGR, someone replaced the engine with a non EGR, and the person who did the swap wired in a resistor to keep the ECU happy, then hid it in the wire loom somewhere, and the resistor finally went bad. A 97 EJ22 paired with an automatic would likely have had EGR.

Took another look at the pics and compared with the wire diagram in the FSM. The jumper is tied to the brown and red wire, which comes from the 10 amp fuse, which is only supposed to power the relay coils. He's tied that to the white and Blue wire, which is the power for the low speed? on the left fan. It looks like its wired so the fan should run anytime the ignition switch is On. The 10 amp fuse in the relay block is the one that keeps burning right? The 20 amp fuse right next to it is the main power for the left fan. This supplies 12v to the White wires that go to the relays. Make sure the fuse is good, and make sure 12v is reaching the relays on the white wires.

Might try tapping (and by that I mean smack the hell out of it) the right fan motor with a screwdriver handle to see if maybe the brushes are just stuck. If they are, this may temporarily loosen them and make the fan start working. The fan will need to be replaced to be reliable. If that doesn't make it work, make sure the fan has a good ground. You might even try running jumper wires directly to the fan from the battery (be sure to use a fuse). No voltage reaching the left fan could have something to do with the jumper, or could indicate a wiring problem elsewhere.

Not all of them, no. But warrany companies work just like insurance companies. If they can find a reason to deny paying, they will. If they've paid out before, thats a good sign. And kudos to you for figuring out the price difference, because a lot of people don't, and they just get sucked in. This type of warranty of a money maker for the dealer and the bank, and most of the time it works out in the banks favor because the warranty costs more than the interest, and they can roll the price of the warranty into the loan. Then the dealer gets a kickback from the bank, and a little from the warranty company for selling it. Can you provide reciepts showing that all service work and oil changes have been performed by a dealer or shop?

Gooey substance is probably Subaru Coolant Conditioner, which Subaru REQUIRES to be added to the cooling system. (Because of the widespread head gasket issue) It is a form of stop leak, which creates a coating of crud inside the entire cooling system. Other sources of gooey crud could be, engine oil getting into the cooling system. There is a transmission oil cooler built into the radiator, and if the cooler splits it can mix transmission fluid and coolant. This will usually leave a red-ish oily residue in the coolant. Not to rub it in, but did you or have you actually saved any money yet by purchasing this warranty? Have you had other repairs done that were covered by the warranty? Did the warranty cost less than the difference in interest you would have paid by opting to not buy the warranty?

Remove the jumper. Whatever the issue is, we can figure it out and fix it properly. Under the dash on the drivers side there are two bright green plugs. Connect them, and turn the key to On. This puts the ECU in Test. Mode, which will cause it to cycle the radiator fans through low, high, off in about 1-1/2 second intervals. Each fan has two relays, one for each fan speed. 4 relays total. The computer grounds the coil of the relays to engage the fans. Determining which relay is for which fan and which speed can be done by removing one relay at a time to see which fan is affected. They're all the same relays so if one fan or speed doesn't work, they can be swapped around to check for a bad relay. If one fan doesn't work, unplug it and check for damage or corrosion in the plug. Check for 12v going to the connector while in test mode. Two of the wires should show 12v when the relay for that wire is engaged. One wire is high speed, the other is low. The third wire in the plug is the ground for the fan. Check for continuity to ground on that wire. Also you can check for voltage on the ground wire while in test mode by back-probing the connector with a paper clip or pin. If the ground wire shows 12v there is no ground. Grounds are on the inner sides of the frame just a few inches from the fans.

Is the trans fluid level low? Is the steering fluid low? When you removed the engine did you leave the torque converter in the trans?

The best way I've found is to just pull the manifold off. It doesn't need to be totally removed from the car, just popped up a few inches on the right side to give some room. It's almost impossible to get to the end of the hose where it attaches to the crossover pipe without pulling up the manifold. You can get in there and yank the old hose off, but getting the new one on is the hard part. Most shops would probably charge about an hour since there is probably not a listed labor time to replace these hoses.

105,000 miles. Replace belt, water pump, tensioner, and all idler pulleys. The idlers are what fail and take out the belt. And they will fail long before the next interval at 210,000.

Put 205/55/16 tires on and they'll fit. People make mistakes and/or mis-remember details all the time. Best to ask for pictures if possible before driving a long way to pick up any parts on craigslist.

Make sure the lug nuts are tight. Does the vibration occur only when actually turning the wheel? Will it make the vibration if you turn the wheel while sitting still? Did you check the tie rod ends for play?

Awesome! Glad to heard its running well. Take it on a couple good 45-1 hour drives just to make sure everything will "settle in good". After that it should be good to drive as far as you want.

All of the other windows work properly? What do you mean by acting finicky? Was it making a noise? Grinding or scraping?

It goes to the hearer core. One metal pipe sticks out of the crossover pipe on top of the block. The hose runs to the heater core, second hose comes from the core back right next to the first and hooks to the bypass pipe. That runs straight across the top of the block then down the front next to the water pump.