Fairtax4me

What he said. Make sure all of the hoses are connected properly to the intake tube. If it has the big box at the back make sure the bottom of the box is clipped together properly.

RTV around the base works if you're in a pinch. Just don't get it near the pintle. Then allow it to dry for about an hour before starting. Most scanners should show Fuel system status in the live data. Should say OL or CL, for open or closed loop. OL-D or OL-Drive will show under WOT or heavy load.

Weld the center diff, or just weld the pinion shaft to the counter shaft. Then plug the hole where the rear driveshaft goes in.

If that theory is correct, your scanner should show if its going in and out of closed loop.

The rear O2 sensor won't cause driveability issues. It's just a check sensor for the converters. It sounds more like you have a vacuum leak, or a bad IAC which is common on that engine. Another thing that can cause rough or unstable idle is a bad MAF sensor. There was a recall on the MAF for a few years around 99-01 IIRC. I had one give me fits on a friends 99 forester. At idle it was reading high which threw off the idle fuel mixture. Drove fine once it was moving, but had a hesitation just off idle when trying to accelerate from a stop. Look at MAF flow at idle after warm-up. Higher than 4.0 g/sec is too high.

How many miles? Check engine light on? Blinking? If not, probably drivetrain related. The u-joints on the rear driveshaft should be checked.

Water works better. Gasoline has very low surface tension, so any even minute imperfection in the valve seal will allow it to seep past. There can be several minor gaps in a valve seat that don't affect its sealing under compression, such as dust or small bits of carbon, but will allow gasoline to seep past. Water won't flow past a small imperfection, but it will eventually drip through a bent valve. As said before, you never know, try slapping a belt on it and see if it runs Ok. If not the heads need to be pulled and have the valves replaced. They're not too bad to replace on your own if you have a small spring compressor.

Have you tried just changing the bulbs? If both brake filaments have burned out this is exactly what you get.

Not much point having the second canister. Just loop a section of hose from one metal tube to the other. Can't see enough of whatever vacuum hose that is, but the one with the T there could be either to the purge control valve, or the one that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. The dohickies on the passenger strut tower are the MAP sensor and the pressure sources switching solenoid valve. The valve switches between engine vacuum and atmospheric pressure and helps the ECU determine alititude and engine load based on changes in engine vacuum. There will usually be one hose leading from the engine to the valve, but on some models there are two hoses. If there are two hoses, it's because the valve is also being used to measure evap system pressure, so the ECU can tell if the evap system is leaking. The second hose comes from a T between the canister and the purge valve. Matching the vacuum hoses when doing a swap is sometimes tricky for people. Just try to follow the diagram on the bottom of the hood (if the hood is original). I can't see the vid, can you post a link instead?

Yep, if the trans pan is dented you've probably crunched one of the solenoids or the wire harness in there. They're only about 1/4" from the pan, and those pans are really flimsy.

Yes there's an access plate. It's either under the seat on the right side or just behind it under the carpet in the cargo area.

That's probably why the turbo blew. Pull the intake tube off the turbo and reach in and check the shaft for play. It's probably pretty wobbly. Hydrocarbon testing of the antifreeze quite often yields inconclusive results on these cars. There are a few good surefire ways to identify failed head gaskets. One is lots of bubbles in the overflow, but you may not see this on a turbo engine because the expansion tank is pressurized. If you're getting a surge of bubbles after shutting the engine off that could just be due to an air pocket in the system. The other surefire way to pick out bad head gaskets is a leak-down test. Putting compressed air into the cylinders will force air into the cooling system if the head gaskets are bad.

How long had it been idling when you noticed the smoke? About 3-4 minutes is when you'l start to see smoke from oil and grease or spilled antifreeze on the exhaust heat shields.

How bout year and model? Testing it is kinda useless. These either work or they don't. Checking resistance will only tell you of the coil inside the valve is bad. They're much more likely to get coked and sticky. There are plenty of reasons for idle problems that are not related to the idle control valve, and there are several reasons you can get codes for the Idle control that are due to problems not related to the valve. What problem are you having, and/or which codes?

What brand of sensor did you buy? You didn't use a universal sensor did you? The kind that requires cutting and splicing wires. These can sometimes be difficult to get plugged in all the way. Make sure the terminals in the connector are clean and not bent, and make sure the connectors push all the way together until they click.

Yeah but you never know if the engine has been swapped in the past or if it got a the 97 engine design in late 96. There always the possibility that interference could happen on the 96 2.2 because of that weird cross-over in 96-97.

I did one about a year ago that the pinch bolt was rusted about halfway through in the middle. Instead of being an 8mm bolt it was only about 4-5mm of solid metal in the center. I barely turned it and it just snapped.

Aisin water pumps are OE brand. They're good stuff and usually come with the OE style rubber and metal gasket. Agree you should pop the belt on first and make sure there are no bent valves. If the 2.2 has the single exhaust ports on the heads there's a good chance it's an interference engine. If its dual port it should be fine.

You should also try pulling the switches out of the console and unplugging those. Two screws under the console lid and that panel just pops up. The switches may be damaged or sticky from something getting spilled on the console.

Possibly the fan switch in the mode select panel. Or the blower relay.

Seat heater is the blue connector. The white connector goes to the seatbelt latch. You can unplug that too but then your seatbelt warning light won't work and in some states that won't pass safety inspection.

Yes! That's the size I was thinking of getting for mine. Awesome to see how that wheel and tire combo looks!

You had it easy if you could actually spin it in the knuckle. And you didn't even have to drill out the pinch bolts? My usually method is a pry bar and a big friggen hammer. Chisel or large screwdriver to spread the pinch, then wail on the knuckle while prying down on the control arm.

Is the intake tube all hooked up and clamped right? Large hose off the IAC is connected at both ends? Battery draw, check all your lights inside. The alternator that's in the car now. Is it the original or did it come from the donor car? Is it remanufactured?

Its oil. The turbo is shot. The bearings get chewed up and the turbine shaft starts wobbling around all over and ruins the oil seals. Is coolant pushing out of the reservoir? That means the head gaskets are bad too.