Fairtax4me

One, your battery needs to be replaced. It should have plenty of power even after running a portable air compressor for a few minutes. Two, no you won't be able to remove the key unless the ignition lock has power. There's a solenoid in the lock that prevents the key from being removed while the car is in motion, that solenoid is only powered when the ignition lock is turned back through the accessory position, and the shifter is moved to the park position. If the battery is dead the solenoid will not get enough power to disengage the key lock, thus the ignition switch can't be turned back to the lock position to allow removal of the key. Three, The ECU controls the lights on that year via a relay. If ECU supply voltage is too low it will keep any already energized control circuits energized (in this case it is providing ground control for the lighting relay). As long as the relay is energized the lights will stay on regardless of light switch position. Four, why are you afraid to use the spare? It's there to be used temporarily if you get a flat tire. If you're out on a trail wheeling you're doing just as much or more damage to the AWD system as using the spare. Contradiction, gonna go wheeling and F up my car, but I don't use the spare tire because it might F up my car? Get a new battery and buy a full size spare if that's your major concern.

Two wire sensor is for the ECU, ECU controls the fans.

Might be one that doesn't have lighting in the display. Easiest fix is to spend $100 on a Kenwood.

The led in the display is burned out.

Could be leaking further up the line and it's running down.

Steering pump leaking or the oil pressure switch is leaking.

Was gonna try to post some pics but the laptop isn't cooperating today. But anyway, like heartless said make sure the line is sticking out through the bar the proper length. Take your die and put it on the bar next to the line, move the line so its level with the top edge of the die then clamp the bar down TIGHT so the line can't slip. Stick the pin of the die into the line and put the press on top of the die making sure it's in the center. Turn until the die seats firmly against the bar. Remove the die, put the cone of the press directly on the line, make sure it's in the center and turn until you feel the press get tight. Sometimes it doesn't work out every time, but that's the nature of using an inexpensive flare tool. A couple times of practice and you'll end up with the correct shape flare. REMEMBER to install the flare fitting on the line before you make the real flare!

Hydrocarbon test won't tell you anything on these engines. A leak down test is guaranteed, hot or cold. If a head gasket is bad and you feed 100+psi shop air into the cylinder it will leak out and cause bubbles in the radiator. Getting warm at low RPMs isn't a usual symptom of a bad head gasket either. Coolant flow or air flow are factors here. Clog in the heater core will produce overheating in this situation in cold weather. What kind of coolant are you using? Is it mixed 50/50? Radiator fans are definitely working? And good point above, make sure the AC condenser isn't clogged with dirt/leaves and the fins aren't all bent over.

Do you still have good heat? Try back flushing the core. I stick a water hose nozzle in the heater hose and just let it rip. Flush it both ways a couple times and see if that changes anything.

Subaru thermostat or aftermarket?

Lucas = Devil for a Subaru trans. It might be worth $15 to try some Wally oil. Where is it leaking? Axle stubs seals aren't fun to change but they're not the end of the world. Input seal means splitting the case and usually only leaks if the main shaft bearing is going out.

One of the hoses to the intake tube or airbox is loose/disconnected.

Because every subru eventually rusts there. 3.90 trans you'll run around 3200 at 70 with 185/14 tires IIRC. Those transmissions used to be common as dirt. Legacy Brighton, L, or Base from 90-98 Impreza 93-98ish IIRC. The later ones with hydraulic clutch are also made to work with cable clutch. Just move the pivot stud and put your release fork on it. Good idea to buy a new fork because they tend to crack when they get old. And yeah 75-140 gear oil is horrid in these trans. 80-90 Walmart stuff is better. Not worth it on a trans that old but I've been using Motul 300 in mine and it's like liquid gold. $20 a litre though.

I bought a Big Red brand 4ton floor jack about 7 years ago and it sits outside in the weather and still works great. I wanna say it was $80 when I bought it. Often parts stores will have sales buy a floor jack and get a set of jack stands 1/2 off, or sometimes free. Buy something that will lift at least 18", and buy a set of at least 3 tons rated stands. Never work on or under a vehicle that's held up only by a jack.

Doesn't really matter. If liquid is making it that far up the line it will likely be present at any point along the hose that goes to the solenoid or to the manifold. So the other thing to check is if the solenoid is stuck open. Test that by trying to blow air back through the solenoid, you can use the hose that comes off the manifold. Best to do this with the engine cool. Engine off you should not be able to blow any air through the solenoid. If air does flow through the solenoid is stuck open. On the older cars it was possible to take the solenoid apart enough to clean the valve and the core. Remove it from the engine and you'll see the metal casing around it has some little fingers at one end. carefully bend the fingers back and the end plate can be removed do it over a clean surface with a clean towel laid down so you don't lose any pieces if it pops apart suddenly.

I don't remember which was which off hand. I can check later and let you know. I ran the new lines through the grommet just like the old lines were, but the new line for the drivers side I ran in front of the tank above the diff brace. Secured in a few places with zip ties.

Not gonna be well received on this board. Like Gloyale said, the intake tube needs a section where it can flex because the engine moves when the car is driving. PVC is rigid, Probably gonna break something.

Just replaced the rear lines on my 96. Same failure, line rusted out and split right above the tank. Luckily I was only 20 miles from home (and in the dark) when it happened. Pesky deer... I bought a roll of copper nickel line because the stuff works (bends) like butter. Replaced both lines because let's face it, one rusted out, how much loner is the other really gonna last? I cut the lines inside and flared the ends and attached the new lines inside above the floor pan. Much easier to work from above as well. The old lines I cut off what was easily removable and left the parts that weren't.

Yeah no kidding! Saw one listed for 2k a few months ago. Didn't mean to put this in new gen. Should have been in the CL ad section.

wow Just... https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/cto/d/subaru-svx-performance-car/6362266881.html

I think you have a different issue. You should check for liquid fuel in the line going to the purge solenoid. Fill up with fuel, drive down the road until the problem starts and pull over and turn the engine off. Pull the vacuum line off the solenoid and see if there is liquid in the line. If there is liquid it's because the charcoal canister is flooded with fuel. The canister will need to be replaced, and possibly the vent control valve that allows vapor into the canister.

The 6cyl will probably need head gaskets around 250k miles, and are more expensive to put head gaskets on. Something to keep in mind if looking at a car with higher mileage.

No. Take it back. Try Car-part.com for another trans.

There can be a few different reasons for losing reverse but generally that's the signal of the beginning of the end. Used trans time.

Looks like the wheel bearing ate it and the rotor was dragging on the caliper bracket. Rotor was the cheapest part to replace yet... It wasn't I don't take anyone's word on what they replaced when I check over a car. Don't care what they say their mechanic did either. Can't count how many cars I've worked on with loose, bent, broken, missing parts or just plain hack-job work done by a previous "mechanic".