Fairtax4me

I'll have to look into that some. As far as I know the driver circuit for the coil is in the ECU on the 4 wire units, gs on the 3 wire type that was in the igniter. Maybe they have a couple diodes or capacitors built in the coil assembly.

Only difference was the coil changed from female to male posts, and they change the mounting bolt spacing for some reason. Just order wires for the correct year to match the coil and you'll be fine. Not sure what you mean by igniter in the coil? Coil changed from a 3 wire to a 4 wire on later years because they moved the ignition control circuit into the ECU rather than have an igniter on the firewall. 3 & 4 wire Coils work the same, they just added a ground, which is the 4 wire.

High side was low because the system was undercharged. The valves should always be closed when checking pressure. The only reason to open the valves is to add refrigerant through the yellow hose. Which you need a can tap to attach the can to the hose. When the hose fittings are connected to the service ports the guage shows the pressure at the port. The valve opens the port between the charge hose (yellow) and the blue or red hose depending on which side you open. The only time the red valve is open is during evacuation and vacuuming the system. The blue valve is open during evacuation, and is used for adding refrigerant, because you can't add refrigerant to the high pressure (red) side of an operating system. The valves do not block pressure from reaching the guages. By opening both valves with the system running, you allow high side pressure to pass through the manifold and back to the low side of the system. This equalizes the pressure of the system, because the refrigerant is just making a loop from the compressor, through the manifold and hoses, and right back to the compressor. This is bad, because as it enters the compressor the refrigerant is supposed to be in its gas state (vapor). As it flows through the condenser it condenses into a liquid, and then is turned back into vapor in the evaporator core. If the service valves on the manifold are both open with the compressor running, the liquid refrigerant can be drawn into the compressor and cause it to seize or explode. (Remember, Liquid can't be compressed) Never ever open the high side valve with the system running. And, unless you have a can tap to add refrigerant through the yellow hose, there is no reason to open the low side valve. With the system off. Guages connected, you will see the system static pressure, which will be the same on both the low and high side. The static pressure will vary depending on outside air temp. The hotter it is, the higher the pressure. On a 60° day, you may only see 70-80 psi static pressure. On a 100° day, you may see 90-110 psi, depending on the system. Operating system pressure will reflect charge level more accurately than static pressure, and if you know what to look for, it will also show you if there is air or moisture in the system. The low pressure side will be mostly constant. This is due to the way the expansion valve works. The expansion valve has a temperature bulb that causes the valve to open or close slightly depending on the temperature of the evaporator core, and a regulating valve that changes depending on the pressure difference between high and low. The expansion valve is the change point from the high side to the low side. The expansion valve will try to maintain an even pressure on the low pressure side. Which should be around 30-35 psi on this particular vehicle. This won't change significantly with temperature change. It may be 5 psi lower on a 60° day than on a 90° day. The pressure may drop slightly as engine speed increases, and may rise slightly as engine speed decreases. On a very low charge, the low side pressure will be lower, and can even show vacuum ( negative pressure) if the system is severly undercharged. The high pressure side tells you the other part of the story. The high side will fluctuate anywhere from 30-50 psi from a cool day to a hot day. You may see 180 psi on a cool day, and 240 psi or maybe higher on a hot day. A low pressure reading on the high side (under about 150), with a normal reading on the low side will indicate an undercharged system. As you add refrigerant the high side pressure will increase, and you may not see any change in the low side pressure, unless the system was severely undercharged. Typically normal high side pressure should range from about 200-240 psi, depending on the system and outside temp. If high side pressure is severely high, say 260 psi or above, that can indicate air in the system, since the air can not be condensed into a liquid at that pressure. If high side pressure is high, and the low side pressure is very low or shows vacuum, this usually indicates a blockage in the system, which would typically be at the expansion valve, or it can be due to moisture in the system which has frozen the outlet nozzle for the expansion valve.

At least you weren't this guy... But don't worry, he chocked the wheel with a rock!!

Step 6 on the instructions. Position lower rail gap in position E or F. At position F they will be 60° apart. Yes, wrist pins are center on the EJ blocks. The newer FA/FB blocks use an offset wrist pin IIRC. If the weight is on top of the piston on one side, it should be on the bottom on the other side if its for balance.

2000-2004 legacy. Try searching at car-part.com. They have a good interchange.

If you can get to it from inside, you may be able to pull it in through the grommet in the firewall.

Most likely a worn out blower motor. Blower motor sticks down under the dash on the passenger side behind the glove box. Turn the key On, turn the fan switch On and if it doesn't work, snack the bottom of the motor with a screwdriver handle a few times. If it starts working, the brushes in the motor are worn out, replace it.

If all the clearances are OK, could be a damaged rocker arm or cam lobe.

I don't see the drain tube in any of those photos. The black corrugated hose on the bottom of the blower box is a vent for the blower motor. It provides airflow to the motor to keep it cool. The drain tube sticks out through the firewall. The only good way to get to it is from under the car. Here's a couple pics of it: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1718109 It's probably in those other pics somewhere and I'm just blind...

Perhaps yours is just a bit... Soiled... From people riding in the car? You can research available colors here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2011.html#colors Click the archives link to see other years and models.

Check the fusible link in the fuse panel under the hood. Looks like a wire. Check all the fuses just for good measure.

I see what you're asking about now... The wider area on the inside where the vent holes are for the oil ring. I would guess they cast it that way for balance when the piston is moving. The force on the piston isn't equal when the piston is on the compression and power strokes. On the transition from compression to power the piston also rocks from one side of the cylinder to the other. The extra weight on one side can help to counter that motion. Of course, those engines piston slap bad anyway, so maybe the extra weight is the problem!

If you can't get the hanger sealed up. Cut that 8-10" section of pipe out and clamp a new peice in that spot. Knock the hanger off of there and clamp it around the new peice of pipe.

So it's still making noise? Is it any different after the valve adjustment? Valves don't really make noise unless they're just plain broken or the adjustment is far out of spec. Do you have a long screwdriver you can use as a stethoscope?

Automatic or manual trans? If its auto, try starting with the shifter in Nuetral. If its manual there's an interlock relay that has to be grounded by the clutch safety switch. You should hear the relay click under the dash when turning the key to start. If the car has an alarm make sure the alarm is disarmed.

Cylinder layout is: Bell-housing 3 - 4 1 - 2 Front of engine So if number 2 is placed opposite 1, all dots pointing forward, is the orientation of either of those pistons different than the 3-4 pair?

1 & 2 go on opposite sides, so number 2 will face the opposite way. As far as the rings. There should be a gap somewhere in the center wire right? Can the tang on the lower control ring fit into the gap in the wire? FSM recommends the Compression ring gaps be 180° apart With the control ring expander gap at 90° from either compression ring gap. Look here for a service manual for your car. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152944-factory-service-manuals/?do=findComment&comment=1292882 99-05 use the same 2.5 engine.

Yeah that would definitely make some noise.

Whatever they have that's cheap is what I buy. No point spending big bucks on a temporary fix. The tape stuff doesn't hold up for long, so avoid that. Does the car need this repaired to pass safety inspection?

Cut the flange out and just clamp a short peice of pipe there. The hanger seems to be a common issue. A couple of clamps around the hanger will hold it in place. If you can, get some JB weld or muffler seal goop to put over the holes.

Oh wait. This is a 2000. Pull the fuel pump and check the metal cap/o-ring deal. The cap splits and just pushes fuel back out into the tank. Pics/ discussion/ replacement part numbers in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130624-2000-outback-fuel-pump-assembly-metal-cap-is-broken/page-1 Some pic links are dead but still good info there.

Ethanol gas gunked up the fuel injectors.

Sounds like rocker arms. The old 2.2s sound that way when the lifters collapse. I think that one should have solid adjusters though. Pull the valve cover on the louder side and check lash clearance.

Is the wire harness on the new motor the same that was in the car? And that harness doesn't have any extra plugs or wires cut out of it?