Fairtax4me

Valves were closed? Gasket seal fell out? Must have a leak somewhere or you shouldn't have any need to charge it again.

The guage may not show it running hot, but if the coolant temp is not getting below 194°F when the fans are running, they will not turn off. Even with the engine off, the fans may continue to run. A low coolant level can cause the engine to run slightly warmer than usual, but not read any hotter according to the guage on the dash. A non-Subaru thermostat can cause similar behavior. Coolant to water mixture ratio can also play a factor. If coolant is mixed more than 70:30 (coolant:water) the coolant will not dissipate heat as easily. A 50:50 mix gives better heat dissipation without greatly lowering the freeze point. (Not that the freeze point matters right now, unless you're at the South Pole) Another factor of the cooling system on these engines is proper coolant flow through the heater core and hoses. A clogged heater core can slow the coolant flow going back to the thermostat via the bypass route, and cause the thermostat to close as cooler antifreeze comes into the t-stat from the radiator. A closed stat blocks coolant flow in the block and raises block temperature. This doesn't typically present an issue during the warm months unless the heater core is totally blocked, but it is something worth considering especially on a new to you vehicle. I'm sure you made sure the AC worked (or you at least asked about it, but did you check the heat when you went to look at the car? If it was hot outside... Probably not?

Did you measure the width of the rotors in several places for thickness variation?

Have you checked the Coolant level? Might consider a coolant change, and put a new Subaru thermostat in it.

It should spin smoothly, but not freely. The grease in the bearing keeps it from spinning easily by hand. As long as it isn't notchy or clunky or feels like it has sand in it, its fine. Some manufacturers pre-pack the bearing with grease and some don't. Usually if the bearing needs to be packed there will be a note in the package, but not always. More than likely if you got an open end bearing, it needs to be packed. I usually buy rubber sealed bearings because it avoids having to re-pack and keeps dirt out of the bearing.

How far around the seat is it wrapped? Those child seat ratchet locks are always a pain. I've had to remove a seat to get to the lower seat belt mount bolt because of one of those before and it was not easy. Maybe the 14 legacy is easier to pull the seat bottom out of.

If this was done at a shop you should take it back because the clutch parts may still be under warranty.

Was just under my car earlier replacing the rusted out filler tube ($4.99 junkyard pull looks like "new") and was grimacing looking at the brake lines back there. I like that kit on Amazon. Rockauto often has very cheap shipping on some parts, then sometimes it's just outrageous! For some reason I can get a 3ft long 15lb exhaust pipe shipped for $6, but to get a box of 2 camber adjustment bolts it costs $9.50?! I hate to pay more for shipping than the fergin part costs. With RA it kinda depends on how far you are from the warehouse the parts shop from. I've often ordered multiple items and had the order show up in 6 different boxes from their different warehouses in Texas, New York, Florida, etc. Sometimes its cheaper to combine shipping by ordering parts from the same warehouse, sometimes its cheaper to pay an extra dollar for the part and get it from a closer warehouse.

That code can be set for several reasons. The ECU looks for a change in engine coolant temp after the fan is commanded On. If the temp doesn't change X amount of degrees in Y amount of time, it sets a code. First thing is to make sure the fan actually works. Look under the dash on the drivers side and find the two small green connectors and plug them together. Turn the key On and the ECU will be in test mode. All of the relays and solenoids will cycle in roughly 1 second intervals. The cooling fans will cycle low high off. Make sure both fans work on both speeds. Is the check engine light blinking while the engine is running? Those three monitors marked N/A are because your vehicle doesn't have any of that equipment to monitor.

Not a caliper issue. The inner side of the rotor got too rusty and the pads aren't making even contact with the surface. The heavily rusted areas are where the pads can't make contact at all. Usually that starts as a small area only 1/8-1/4" wide on one edge and spreads from there. All of that is probably from when the car sat for so long. That will lead to vibration as the other surface of the rotor creates more heat during braking. The amount of warp or thickness variation necessary to create a vibration is not visible to the naked eye. .003" is usually the limit for rotor warp. .006" will cause the steering wheel to shake bad.

Did you set backlash and preload on the new ring and pinion? It's not always as easy as just swapping parts. Kinda looks like somene else had trouble with the mounts before. NA and turbo mounts are different shaped, but I'm not sure if they bolt on any differently.

I don't know what's clicking by your knee. You're the only person here who can crawl under the dash and find it so I suggest you do that. You clearly don't want my help so I'll stop trying.

Just grounds to the frame on the passenger side I think. Did you try hitting the fan with a screwdriver handle to see if it would start turning?

Is ted an architect?

FSM says this code sets when the ECU commands the electronic throttle control relay On but no voltage is detected on the relay circuit. There are some fuses in the main fuse box under the hood for the ETC, check those. Also check behind the glove box for some relays near the ECU. One of those is the ETC relay. Try swapping it with another relay nearby.

Awesome! If It runs smooth, put it back together and enjoy! I keep meaning to do a picture/video writeup with that method but I haven't ever had the time when doing a timing belt job. Maybe some day...

Yeah just drill the hole and put a barb fitting on there. It does need than hose for proper PCV operation.

It's the DOHC 2.5 engine right? Those have shims that have to be changed to adjust the clearance. You might be able to swap shims with the valves on cylinder 2. If its still making compression well enough to run at idle the valve may just have some carbon buildup that may wear off if the lash clearance is adjusted. It may be worth a shot if you can crawl under there and swap them around yourself.

Sometimes a small leak can't be found right away. Heat makes metal expand, and the leak may have been small enough that the contraction during the winter caused the leak point to re-open. There is also corrosion and other weathering factors that can cause the leak point to open more. Normally I will totally drain a system and vacuum it to make sure it holds vacuum. If the system holds vacuum for 45 minutes to an hour any leaks will be so small they're not noticable, the system gets recharged and then you just have to see if it leaks down more. Common leak points are the service port valves which should have sealed caps screwed down tight to prevent refrigerant leakage from the valve. More often than not, if the service caps are missing, the system will need to be recharged every year, sometimes it may not even last a week. Most of that cost is probably the new condenser. Check rockauto for a condenser and you can probably cut that cost in half.

Look in the classifieds here. Pretty sure someone will have a used set they can send you a whole lot cheaper than buying 4 new/reman ones.

Did the mechanic check valve lash clearance on that cylinder? If the clreance is at or close to 0, it needs adjustment. You may be at a point where an adjustment will save the valve.

Your right side (passenger) sprocket doesn't look like its lined up with the seam on the head properly. Line up the notch on the sprocket with the seam between the camshaft retainer plate and the main body of the head. In the pic you have 2 seams. First on left is the valve cover to cam retainer, second is the cam retainer to cylinder head. The retainer to head seam is exactly in the middle of the camshaft, that is the one you need to line up to. Do the same on the drivers side. Your crankshaft notch is not lined up with the notch in the sensor housing. Turn that just a hair clockwise so the notch lines up. Leave the tensioner off, install all of the other idlers. Starting at the crank place the belt on the sprocket and hold in place. (I like to use a small spring clamp to hold the belt in place. I have one that I cut one side narrow so it fits into the slots in the face of the crank and gives a solid hold) Run the belt under the top idler, around the right side (passenger) cam sprocket. Turn the sprocket sightly clockwise so the teeth line up, then turn counter clockwise to pull slack out of the belt between the cam and crank. Use a clamp to hold. Run the belt across the lower idler, cogged idler, water pump, keeping the belt taught the whole way, then wrap around the left hand side ( drivers) cam sprocket. Use a 17mm box end wrench to turn the drivers cam slightly clockwise (no more than 1 tooth) so the belt teeth fall into the sprocket, then turn counter clockwise to pull the slack out of the belt and line up the timing notch. Use a clamp to secure. Now, the belt should be taught the entire way way around, with all slack between the drivers cam sprocket and the crank sprocket. Double check that the crank notch is still lined up perfectly with the notch in the sensor housing. If not, rotate the crank slightly so it is. The drivers cam sprocket may like up half a tooth to one side or the other of the seam between the cam plate and the head. If so, ensure that it is lined up slightly toward the drivers side of the seam. (Think 12:01 on a clock) if the notch is toward the passenger side (11:59) remove the clamp, turn the sprocket clockwise one tooh and reset the belt on the sprocket, then turn counter clockwise to pull the slack out. Secure with a clamp. Again, there should be NO slack anywhere on the belt except for between the crank sprocket and the drivers cam. Install the tensioner assembly, use a screwdriver or prybar wedged between the tensioner and top bracket to apply tension on the belt. Spin the crank 2 turns to ensure the notch marks all line up. Do NOT pay attention to belt marks, because they will never line up again after rotating the crank. Notches only. If the notches don't line up, reset the belt. If the notches line up, pull the pin on the tensioner and you're done.

It still doesn't look like you have all of the idlers installed. Remove the tensioner, Install all of the other idlers and see how the belt lines up then.

What brand clutch? Was the flywheel resurfaced? Pressure plate replaced?

The link is designed to melt if it is overloaded, but occasionally they will burn out with age due to corrosion or heat cycling. A damaged link will usually break if you pull on it. It can be partially burned and make/break the connection intermittently. There is also the possibility of corrosion or burning on the spade terminals of the link. If the link looks like it has been hot (has discolored insulation) its a good idea to replace it.