Fairtax4me

This may be the reason you're having trouble. Over tightening lug nuts stretches the lug studs and can gall the threads. This will be worse with aftermarket wheel studs. I recommend new wheel studs and new lug nuts from Subaru. FSM for that car specifies 81 ft-lb wheel nut torque. Wear in the center of the tire usually indicates over-inflation. What pressure do you run in the rear tires? What pressure is recommended on the tire info placard? You've had it aligned, but did you ask specifically for a 4 wheel alignment? Some shops adjust only the front wheels when doing an alignment.

Now meaning 2015? The first ones being... 1970? Those would have been selectable 4wd. Today's are full time all wheel, different systems and different advantages/disadvantages. The early versions of the current AWD systems came along in the late 80s. They differ in operation between auto or manual transmission. Whether they "suck" is going to be relative to what you're trying to do with them. Rock crawling... Yeah it'll suck. I heard about some issues with this in the first year after that engine hit the US market, haven't heard anything since.

Junkyard, find an OE Subaru starter. Put new contacts in it.

There's no reason you need to take the car to a mechanic they've suggested. Pick up the phonebook and look in the auto repair section and find someone closer, preferably someone that has experience with Subaru's, and get a second opinion. Anytime you have a running issue with a newly rebuilt engine, that issue needs to be dealt with ASAP. It was running rough from day one, it should have been taken right back to the shop that installed it same day. Even 100 miles is too far to drive an engine with multiple misfires occurring. If the best that the installing shop can come up with is "sticky valve", I don't think they've even tried to diagnose anything. Swapping parts around isn't a diagnosis. Two things that you need done to determine the interal condition of the engine are 1. compression test 2. leak-down test The compression test will tell you if you have one or more cylinders which are making less power (lower compression) than the others. The leak-down test will tell you where that compression is going. If compression is even, and the leakdown test shows no significant leakage, the problem is going to be ignition or fuel system related.

No bleeding necessary. Just check the ATF fluid level and make sure you didn't lose too much.

If the rest of the steel tube looks ok, you can cut the end off a little further up, but you'll need to flare the end to keep the hose from popping off the end. Sometimes running the hose on about 3-4" and double clamping will hold it. I usually just replace the whole section with ATF cooler hose all the way back to the trans.

I give up.

Looks good to me. Rotate the crank twice and make sure they all line up again. Ignore belt marks because they're useless.

Cardoc has good info in this thread: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/23109-transmission-threw-code-p0500-speed-sensor-2.html Also there is a link to a thread for getting ABS codes. Check the wiring for the front ABS sensors. Also make sure no metal flakes are stuck to the sensors.

Yes, the rust can weaken the magnetic field of the coil causing a weak spark. The laminated cores make a big difference in determining the strength of the magnetic field. There could also be rust intrusion into the coil windings causing a weak spark. Where did you source the new coils? Spark plug looks fine, but while you're in there...

No signal from one or the other and the engine won't start. ECU needs input from both to determine spark timing and fuel injection. As I said before, if you have a code for either one of these sensors, it's because the ECU thinks it's not there, as in not getting any signal at all, as if the sensor is unplugged. Poor connection at the sensor(s), at the large connectors on the bellhousing, or a wiring issue.

Yeah you always have to haggle with the dealers a bit to get a good price. Good work, should be ready to roll for a long time now!

Wish we had dual range EJ cars over here. Would have snagged up one a long time ago for this car. Springs have become less bouncy. I've put maybe 1,000 miles on them and they've softened up pretty well. Still a little rough on gravel but that may be a combination of springs and struts and the new poly front control arm bushings. The clicky axle didn't ever really get better/worse but I determined that it was the source of a vibration I had when decelerating. Swapped it out with another axle which had previously been on the car for several months with a ripped inner boot. Rebooted, stuck it on there, no more clicks or vibration! Need to get some new camber bolts for the front because the stock bolts don't have enough adjustment. Also gonna try to get adjustable lateral arms for the back because the camber is just on the limit and there isn't much room between the strut and the tire.

If it is engine oil, and its fresh, its gonna smell like engine oil. Try to compare to what's on the dipstick and see if its the same color. I would want to pull the splash guard off and make sure the oil pan isn't damaged. Oil pan is the lowest and most vulnerable point of the engine. Filter is up fairly high. Not likely to scrape, especially since it's probably surrounded by the dragons den exhaust manifold. Valve covers are way up there. The lowest point of the valve cover is still higher than the bottom of the frame. You'd have to bend the frame to get valve cover contact.

If the AT temp light comes on it usually means there is a code. Search for the method to get TCU codes for your year. Its a fairly simple process, I just don't know it off the top of my head. Also check the large connector(s) for the transmission wiring harness. Humming from the air box could be because it isn't fit together properly at the bottom.

Is it engine oil or ATF? Some time in the mid 2000s they started putting an ATF filter on the drivers side in the fender area by the battery. Could also have jarred one of the ATF cooling lines that run to the radiator on that side.

Coil packs don't seem to be a big issue on Subarus but I've worked on many other vehicles where coils will begin to fail at 50k miles and you just have to replace them one at a time as they fail. I would at least pull the #5 spark plug and see if it is fouled because of the misfire. Doesn't do you much good to put a new coil on a dead spark plug. If the plug is fouled and the others appear to be in good shape, you can replace just that one as a temporary measure. Just be sure to buy the same brand and type of plug. When you're reasonably assured that the problem has been fixed, replace the other plugs as well to avoid future running issues.

Get new tires first. Also change the fluid in the rear diff. The only real killer of gear oil is heat, and there will be quite a bit of extra heat generated by the speed difference left-right because of the tires. This can cause wear in the rear diff as well as the center diff. You might also consider changing the transmission oil as well.

I can't even leave stuff in my car in front of my own house. Years ago I left my truck unlocked all the time. One morning I left for work and noticed the drivers door was cracked open. (Like someone had opened it and tried to shut it but only got it one click. It was a Ford, you had to slam the door to make it close all the way.) Ash tray was pulled out and the glove box was hanging open. Nothing missing, so I guess they were looking for change or GPS/electronics. There was nothing of value in the truck except some jumper cables behind the seat. Then had to use those to jump start it because the glove box light drained the battery! Since then about once every 6 months someone else on the street has to file a report for items missing from their vehicle. Always a vehicle with doors left unlocked. Usually change/money from the console, and portable electronics.

Sounds spark related. Plugs are supposed to last quite a while in those engines. I would guess oil in the plug wells as Gary suggested (although I think its too early for that too). Could also be a faulty ignition coil.

Could be the console switch mentioned above, or could be the interlock solenoid for the key cylinder isn't releasing properly. It could be gummed up from dust/soda/coffee/ etc.

Somehow or other (I haven't taken one of these apart so don't know exactly) the key is what makes the ground connection for the beep thing. Cutting the black wire from the cylinder works but isn't a great idea IMO. I think somehow the lock cylinder has gotten damaged or is gunked up and the trigger that grounds the beeper isn't opening when the key is removed. It might be repairable if you feel like pulling the lock cylinder out and tinkering with it. The buzz thing is a common issue. Usually because the clutch switch isn't making complete contact. The starter interlock relay will flip on/off rapidly which causes the buzz. Shove the clutch pedal down harder when starting to prevent that. Or you can bypass the clutch switch and then you don't have to push the clutch to start. Just be mindful of that and make sure its out of gear when starting.

No. Timing mark on the crank is on the back edge of the crank sprocket. It lines up with a notch in the oil pump housing in the center of the crank sensor. Line that notch up, and the cam sprocket notches should be lined up with the notches in the cover.

Is it the parking lights staying lit, or are they actually blinking? Checked the switch on top of the steering column?

The crank sensor reads from the crank timing sprocket, cam sensor from the cam sprocket. You won't likely get codes for these sensors if there is an obstruction or weak signal. The signal usually has to be totally lost (ECU thinks the sensor is unplugged) to set a code for these. If it's not the sensors themselves, it could be loose terminals in the connectors, or it's going to be a wiring issue somewhere between the sensor and ECU. The wiring runs beneath the intake manifold, has the manifold been removed for any reason recently? Any evidence of mice?