Fairtax4me

The chemical de-icer is worse than salt, and absolutely terrible for the environment. The huge pile-ups always happen in the less amount of snow. For some reason people think less snow means the roads aren't as as slick.

Hang a belt on it and see what it does. You just never know.

Do the axles have spring pins? If theyre pinned, knock the pins out and slide them over. Sgould be able to get enough room that way. If you still need more room mark and remove the upper strut bolt. Loosen the lower bolt and the knuckle will swing out far enough to pull the axle off the trans.

Yeah, Probably the switch. I've seen damaged wiring where it comes into the door by the hinge, and corrosion inside the main door connector down behind the kick panel, but both of those places usually affect operation of all 4 windows.

Dremel the hole wider and hammer them in.

If you go straight to the motor there are only two wires so its easy to figure out. Do the other windows work from the main switch?

Timing belt jumped. That's an interference engine. Fix the idler that went bad, hang a new belt on it and pray it doesn't have bent valves.

The service manual won't help you with that. They don't cover disassembly of any switches. Easiest will be to jumper wire 12v direct to the motor plug. Ground the opposite pin in the plug.

That's the MAF. Pop the top off and resolder the pin junctions, or swap in a used one.

Those have big problems with the rear cross-member rusting out so check under the back before buying. They can be purchased used from a rust free area and shipped in, but if that car is rusty underneath all of bolts that hold the suspension parts on and hold the cross member to the frame will probably be seized. That engine doesn't have many issues. The head gaskets weep externally which will cause a slow loss of coolant. By that mileage they're usually leaking enough to need replacement if they haven't been done already. That's fine that they replaced the timing belt and water pump, but unless they replaced all 3 timing idlers and the tensioner it will need to be done again soon. The timing belt doesn't fail on these. The idlers fail and take out the belt with them.

At least you didn't spend another $900 on a compressor before finding that out!

Those ABS units don fail that often. Probably would be easiest to just get a used unit. They're fairly cheap at the u-pull-it places.

Any warranty on it?

Are all of the lights and everything turning off when this happens? When the MAF signal drops out the ECU cuts fuel so the engine basically stalls. If you're rolling it will come back in a few seconds and keep right on going, no lights or anything because the engine is still being turned by the wheels, even the tachometer will still say the engine is turning because the tach runs on signal from the igniter which will still be firing. If you're sitting still it will stall and the CEL, oil pressure, battery and some other lights may come on, but no codes because the ECU doesn't alway pick up on the problem. It just sees a drop in the voltage signal from the MAF, and decreases fuel input accordingly. Unless you're losing ALL electrical power ( radio, lights, instrument cluster, etc.), that would be a different problem.

Broken solder joint in the MAF sensor. Pretty common on that year and doesn't always set codes. If you're comfortable with a soldering iron you can pull the square top off the sensor and resolder the joints where the pins meet. That usually fixes it, but if not a used one is cheap and they tend to work fine.

Can't say I've ever had much trouble with them, but about half the ones I remove the whole stud comes out. Do you already have the other two totally out? I leave one on each side to hold the y-pipe up while I work on the other side. Keeps it from binding them as it tries to pull down. If they're turning then keep turning them. If they lock up, hit them with some PB and leave them for an hour.

That engine has hydraulic lash adjusters and they will clatter like the end of the world if they bleed out. Use a stethoscope and see if the noise is comiing from the heads. If it is, pull the valve covers and remove the rocker shaft assemblies. The feed port in the rocker shafts and tiny and easily plug up with RTV/or other crud, usually after someone has resealed the oil pump. Blow the rocker shafts out with compressed air, pump up the lifters with fresh oil and re-install.

That thing looks like an old ford. That degreaser stuff in a can doesn't cut cooked on caked up crud like that. Wd40 or PB blaster work great for cutting heavy grease. Spray some, let it soak, spray a little more, scrub, repeat. After a little scrubbing you'll start to see the silver streaks of the aluminum in the brush marks through the grease. Hose it down with some brake clean after you start seeing the silver. Compressed air works wonders as well.

Gorilla offroad is the only one I can think of off-hand. There are others but they can be tricky to find. Search around Subaruforester.org. I'm sure they know.

There are about half a dozen relays that AC system uses and they should all be under the hood except for the blower motor relay. Does the relay click only when you push the AC button, or does it click when the blower fan speed switch is turned on/off? When you push the AC Button, do the radiator fans under the hood turn on?

This should make you feel better. This engine is still in daily use. Burns about a quart of oil between changes.

Then that makes it much simpler. The auto AC models have several sensors that can affect AC compressor operation. With the manual AC you're pretty much just looking at a bad switch in the control panel.

Looks fine to me.

Ahh I missed that video. Reach under there with a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench and try to tighten the bolts on that link.

Kinda sounds more like it just needs a set of plugs and wires. Second opinion time. What year make model?