Fairtax4me

The problem is the creaking and popping that happens when the strut is NOT moving. I hear a lot of noises in those videos that don't correlate to any movement of the suspension. Did you record the drivers side as well? Any noises on that side?

Sway bar links usually make more of a low clunk sound that what you have. But I've seen the bolts come loose and they make some interesting noises. Easy to check. Just unbolt them and go for a ride.

There's no easy way to make that swap work. Phase 2 has ignition control built into the ECU, has a 4 wire plug on the coil pack, and has totally different Idle control system built into the throttle body. Phase 1 has a separate ignition module (igniter) mounted on the firewall with 3 wire plug on the coil pack, and IAC is stuck on the side of the intake manifold behind the #3 intake runner. Which does your car have? The manifolds are different so you can not bolt a phase 2 manifold to phase 1 heads. (and vice versa) You can have a phase 2 short block with phase 1 heads and intake manifold. (Or vice versa)That's the only way that swap works. But the ECU doesn't know/care which block is in there. All it knows is the electrical connections, which are different enough between phases that they don't interchange. June 98 could make your car a 99 model year which would make it a phase 2 from the start.

Check voltage to the #1 injector. Need to know if its not working because the ECU is not commanding injection or if there's a wire issue. The article above seems to indicate the problem will only occur at idle if the computer is cutting injection pulse. Does your misfire go away if you rev the engine up? Have you checked to make sure all the electrical plugs on the bellhousing are tight? The main ECU ground connection is on the intake manifold, make sure that's clean and tight.

Looking at the sensor pin 5 will be on the left, pin 1 will be on the right. Check the IAT circuit pins 1&2 resistance. Should be approx. 2.5 Kohm at 70°F. In the plug check for 12v reaching the sensor on pin 3. Check pin 4 for sensor ground. Check pin 5 for voltage when cranking. Should be about 0.5v depending on airflow. You can also remove the sensor from the housing and blow across the sensor element. Watch for voltage to change with airflow change across the sensor.

With the vehicle in FWD all of the rear drive peices will still be turning whenever the vehicle is moving. So even if the noise goes away, whatever is causing the noise can still be an issue if it later decides to let go entirely. If the noise does go away then we can say with at least some certainty that the origin is in the rear drive components. If the noise gets worse, then there is a high probability that the noise is related to a front axle or differential problem.

It's an automatic right? You can put the front wheel drive fuse in and see if the noise changes. The loud crunch/grind going from reverse to drive is something drivetrain/axle related. Struts don't make noise when you're sitting still. The drain and fill plugs on the rear diff can be grizzly bear tight and very difficult to get loose. They typically require quite a bit of leverage, which means you need lots of room under the car.

A result!! Only took 4 months! Carry over could be possible if your 99 is still a phase 1. 99 was the switch from phase 1 to phase 2 engines, and the ECUs changed as well.

I'm not entirely familiar with the setup in the 07, but this sounds like a bad switch in the control panel. Does this car have automatic climate control? I can tell you that it is NOT the compressor, since it works on the defrost setting.

The PDR guys use those all the time, except the guys I know use a slide hammer puller instead of the jack looking thing. Kinda tricky to get right, but good results once you get used to how it works and you know how much "pull" you need. Also, it usually inverts the dent into a hump which needs to be massaged back down with a special punch tool. This is where the trick of knowing how much "pull" is necessary comes in. Once you get that dialed in you minimize how far out the dent is pulled which means less massage work to get it flat again.

Neat video! But that noise isn't the struts. If it is coming from the rear of the car, it's going to be something damaged in the rear diff or a broken axle. Drain the diff fluid, look for chunks.

Its adjustable but you can't adjust it. Mess with the placement of the drive motor and it'll never idle right. There really isn't much to it. If it looks gummed up, clean it. If it still doesn't move easily replace it.

Most nav systems lose update capability after about 5 years. Its a computer, its practically obsolete by the time the car makes it from the plant to the dealer lot. Hunt around in the menus on the unit and see if you can determine which company made the map software for it, and any map version info. Then find out who made the actual head unit. (Youll probably have to remove it and look for a sticker on it somewhere. Get in touch with the manufacturer of the unit and ask if they still offer updates for it. More than likely and update pack will be several hundred bucks. It's usually cheaper to just buy a new head unit.

These are not likely related or they would have all stopped working at the same time. The brake light switch is a dual contact switch used for the brake lights and cruise control. The brake lights will use the two larger wires going into the switch. Check for 12v going in and leaving the switch on the large wires. You can also jumper the two large wires in the plug and see if the lights come on. The blower fan is under the dash on the passenger side. You can see the end of the motor sticking down in the corner below the glove box. If the fan isn't working, turn the key and can switch on and smack the bottom of the fan motor with a screwdriver handle and see if it turns on. If it does, the brushes in the fan motor are worn or stuck and the fan motor just needs to be replaced.

The manual is just saying the bearing can't be removed to be regreased without destroying it. The bearing has to be pressed out and a new one pressed in. I have had good luck with newer sealed bearings (rubber seals built into the bearing) rather than the open style (open ends which leave the rollers exposed). One of the biggest reasons for bearing failure is dirt getting into the bearing either through a failed axle seal or by dirt falling in when a cv axle is being replaced. With a sealed bearing there is no chance of dirt ever getting into the bearing.

Try a new cap, and make sure the radiator is full. Burp the system to make sure there are no air pockets.

Engine oil leaking from the bellhousing will be either from the separator plate (very common, every single Subaru leaks oil from this by the time it reaches 150k) or it will leak from the diamond shaped access plate on the block half opposite of the separator. There's an o-ring behind it, it dries and cracks and will spew oil everywhere. Use an impact driver to remove the screws that hold it because they're usually stuck pretty good. If you're doing the clutch pull the engine and fix those leaks. Also replace the valve cover gaskets since they'll be much easier to do with the engine out of the car.

Cvt fluid needs to be changed just like any other fluid. Subaru fluid is expensive, so a lot of people use Valvoline because it claims to meet Subaru spec. I'm not sure that you absolutely have to run synthetic engine oil, but there's no reason not to run synthetic. What does the owners manual recommend? If you notice that it's having oil consumption problems then consider switching to a conventional 5w-30 maybe.

Don't worry, we all talk to ourselves... ( I think)... Try the fake knock sensor and see what you get. I don't know much about the MAF sensor fitment because there were several different styles. Typically there are 4 pin sensors and there are 5 pin sensors. When ordering a replacement you have to make sure you get the one with the correct number of pins in the plug.

Sorry, Had a bunch of thunderstorms roll through yesterday evening and couldn't get them uploaded.

If you watch their video the guy says its a plain cotton cloth. I don't know for sure; but since to get the stuff you do have to order on the color code and they even say on the site that it may not be a perfect match, this is probably just really thick touch up paint. You smear it on, it dries quickly, then you wipe the "blobs" off with the cloth. The sealer stuff is probably just acetone or some kind of thinner to smooth out the stuff that gets rubbed around.

Unfortunately that's the nature of tri-coat paints. It's very difficult to get a perfect match. A 100% match will probably never happen, even in a factory setting, due to variances in color between batches of the paints used to mix the tri-coat. If you have a good paint supply shop the match will be about as close as it can be, especially if you can take the car to them, they can shade the base color to match the coat on the car and account for any sun bleaching/age yellowing that has occurred.

Find an automotive paint supply store in your area. Most can mix touch up paint, or may even have it already mixed.

Yeah they did. My 96 has it. Trying to upload pics now.

There's room to hit down on the control arm right around the end. Pop the tie rod end out so you can flip it either way easily and alternate hammering one side then the other. You don't want to ride around on cracked cast iron. The crack can spread at any time and the thing can fall apart.