Fairtax4me

No it won't. Any wheel with no traction to the road surface will turn freely regardless of AWD, 4wd, or ABS operations. You need new tires andd less foot on the gas pedal, especially when road conditions are poor.

The cam is holding them open. Turn the cam and they'll close. Normally I spin the cam while the head is still on the block to close all the valves before I remove the head. It's doable with the head off the motor, just harder to hold the head and turn the cam at the same time.

Ball joint or tie rod end. The bearings on these don't normally show any play unless they're totally shot, and then You'll have obvious play in every direction. If you have the knuckle off, axle out, spin the hub by hand. If it's smooth, bearing is fine. If it feels rough or sounds like it has gravel in it the bearing is bad. Getting the ball joint stud out of the control arm isn't usually that bad, but it's best to get that popped loose before removing the cup from the knuckle. Big hammer and a pickle fork usually gets them.

Fronts might. Rears definitely will not.

Kinda sounds like they damaged the wheel speed sensor for that wheel. Or as Mike said they installed a crap hub unit and the magnetic ring in the unit isn't designed properly so the ABS can't read it to get an accurate speed signal. Does the light turn on right away, or does it only come on after you start rolling? Comes on right away is a wheel speed sensor problem. Damaged sensor, wiring, or loose connector. Comes on when rolling is usually a tone ring problem.

Like GD said, it's a common leak on these older engines and is about a 5-6 hour repair for an experienced Subaru mechanic. You just need a mechanic that knows old Subarus and not the dealer.

I use an OTC Hub grappler and have used it by hand and with an impact gun. Not sure how much pressure it applies, but if it loads up and won't turn anymore the end is made to be hammered on. 4lb with a good swing and it pops loose right away. If I had a stronger impact gun I probably wouldn't need to hammer on it. By hand it pretty much takes the hammer to get the initial pop to get the bearing started moving out. Only one I've done that was severely rusty, the snap ring was so rusted to bits it a wasn't removeable without doing some serious cutting. I tossed the whole knuckle and put a used one on the car. For $60 it wasn't worth my labor time to get the rusty one apart. For bearings I've used a few brands. Subaru OE you repack with grease and pop them in and they last pretty much the remaining life of the car. I started using bearings that are already packed and have the rubber seals built in. Beck arnley, a handful of other brands have some. Local parts store carries one that I've used a few times. Not real sure about longevity of them but the ones that I've done seem to hold up pretty well.

Yes, 12mm.

Did you have it serviced anywhere else recently? Agree with Gloyale, looks like spray grease of some kind on the sway bar bushings.

You have the Subaru jerk. Lots of different things all worn out over time cause what is normally a slight issue to become a huge problem. I've had it in my 96 for all 8 years that I've owned it. At low speed especially, parking lots, slow moving traffic, or any situation where you're moving from off throttle to very light throttle at a low speed, you get a hiccup. It's not a stumble, not a hesitation, not a misfire. It's a solid thump like the engine completely shut off for a second then turned back on. That resurgence of engine power starts off the accordion effect that shakes through all those worn parts of the drivetrain and slams you around in the seat until you either clutch in, or stick your foot on the gas pedal hard enough to force everything back into forward motion. If there were a simple or quick fix I would have found it years ago. Unfortunately it's a multitude of worn parts that leads to this and takes an approach of replacing almost every part of the drivetrain to really fix, and at that it really doesn't fix the whole issue, just makes it a little more tolerable. Lots of money, especially if you have to pay a shop to replace parts. I do all of my own work, so it has cost me more time than money. For the first three years or so that I owned the car I just dealt with it. Figuring I would either get used to it, or the problem would get worse and something obvious would present itself (at which time I could replace the offending parts and move on). It got worse, but never was there any clear source of the problem. So I started replacing parts, many of which were original with 200k miles on them. Things that made sense like struts and springs, control arm bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, rear lateral arm bushings, differential mount bushings, transmission and engine mounts. Eventually (but not necessarily in this order) the transmission, rear differential, rear driveshaft, and front and rear cv axles. The three things that I noticed curbed the jerkiness the most were the rear trailing arm bushings, rear driveshaft, and the rear CV axles. Nothing I replaced in the front suspension ever made a noticeable difference, including the motor and trans mounts. Now at just over 275k miles it's still jerky, but it hasn't broken yet, and I don't guess it will if it hasn't in the last 100k. And among the vast list of sensors and parts I've replaced on the engine in that time, none have ever cured the hiccup. My 95 does it too, along with every other mid 90s Subaru I've driven with a manual trans. Just a quirky trait that's there to stay in these 20 year old cars. No idle switch in the TPS in 96. Thinking 94 was the last year for the 4 wire TPS.

Just lucky. Many cases just on this board of DOHC engines with bent valves after having timing belt failures. It doesn't happen every time, but I do think a lot of mechanics (not entirely familiar with Subarus) will just say it has bent valves without verifying if they actually are.

There's normally play at the inner joint anyway. Replace the boot. Don't use an aftermarket axle.

Find a shop that can do a Time-sert thread insert. Or post in the classifieds here for a used head. 2000 motor will definitely not work. For a replacement engine, depends if your car is OBD1 or OBD2. If you don't know, it will say on the emissions sticker under the hood.

Whitish/milky colored fluid in the bottom of a pan is usually moisture mixed with oil. Water settles in the bottom of the pan and is to some extent absorbed by the oil. Pretty normal to get some moisture mixed in with the oil as condensation occurs inside the case. Typically a small amount will evaporate away once the fluid gets up to temp.

Just put Japanese ignition parts on it and it won't know the difference.

If it's not a tilting column, one end or the other should have a snap ring of some sort. Pop the snap ring out and then probably will have to persuade the shaft out of the bearings with some hammerage. Usually there is some thread lock/bearing lock compound to prevent rattles that just needs to be broken loose.

It's not for ignition timing. It's just a marker for setting the cam timing when installing the timing belt. With the crank at 90° off TDC the pistons are all at half stroke, so no chance of bending valves/interference if you need to turn the cams. Also with the cams set at 45° off TDC they can be left in position without needing a special tool to hold them. Makes belt installation much easier at the very least. Every other manufacturer makes you set cam/belt timing with the engine at TDC, which for many engines makes sense, but in many cases also requires special tools to hold the cams in place while the belt is off. SOHC heads are usually not much problem, but DOHC heads are always an issue with other manufacturers. On Subaru there's nothing to them, you just line up the marks and put the belt on.

Car-part.com Pretty good chance that any engine with 125k miles or more has had the head gaskets replaced already. Drop it in make sure it runs well then do a timing kit.

The notches are the timing marks. Arrows are used only for TDC for setting valve lash. Not used for timing. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/#/topics/39436?page=2&gid=1&pid=1

It's not supposed to but It can if its not adjusted properly and/or the check valve/internals are crudded-up from old fluid. Only time I've had trouble with one though was when the lever was sticking on a 95 that I worked on several years ago. Car was a rust bucket and had a bunch of dirt stuck in around the lever and the spring. Blasted it out with compressed air, brushed off what I could with a wire brush, soaked it with penetrating oil and worked the lever back and forth full travel a couple dozen times and it freed up just fine. Followed up with white spray grease. Haven't seen the car since then, but it worked fine when It left my hands.

Which cylinder(s)? Was it misfiring before you changed plugs? Swap plug wire from the misfiring cylinder with another. See if the misfire moves. Can do the same with a fuel injector if moving wires/plugs doesn't change it. Possibly a burned valve, a leak down test would tell.

If the bleeders are so locked up that you can't change the fluid you really should change the calipers. Only twice have I had customers request to have a broken bleeder screw drilled out rather than replacing the caliper. Both times the car was back in the shop just a few months later, same calipers, pistons seized, ate up the new brake pads and warped the rotor. In a shop it's a half hour of labor to replace a brake caliper. $40 caliper + $50 labor= $90 And it's done for years. It's an hour labor and a $10 bleeder screw to drill out a caliper. $110, and then end up replacing the caliper anyway a couple months later. Plus in these cases replace the brake pads again, and replace the damaged rotor. If the pedal is hard, that could be a booster problem. There's a check valve in the vacuum line to the booster that can get stuck and prevent full vacuum from reaching the booster. The booster could also have an internal failure causing it to not provide full boost power. There are specs for testing the booster in the factory service manual.

Don't guess what engine it has. Look for the stamp on the engine and KNOW what it is. Trans shifting sounds normal to me. I'd definitely drain that fluid though and refill to proper level so you know you have the correct fluid in the trans. Change the spin-on filter on the side as well. Spend the $30 on the real Subaru filter, you'll probably never have to change it again.

Pretty sure neon wheel center hole is smaller. No way to make that work properly without a wheel spacer.

No the sprocket is not magentized. The crankshaft sensor IS magnetized. The crankshaft position sensor is not a Hall effect sensor. It is a magnetic pickup sensor. It has a permanent magnet core, with a copper coil. It is not powered. The sensor produces an AC waveform as the lobes of the sprocket pass through its magnetic field. That waveform gets sent directly to the ECU. The ECU uses that waveform to determine crankshaft angle and speed of rotation. The crankshaft sensor does not trigger the ignition coil. The ECU determines crankshaft angle and commands the ignition control module (IIRC is built into the ECU on that year car) to trigger spark from the coil. If you probe directly at the pigtail connector for the coil (I don't recall exactly which 2 wire2 off hand) you'll see a DC square wave as the ignition module pulls the coil circuit to ground. The break in the ground causes the coil to spark. Probing the crankshaft sensor wires directly at the sensor connector for an AC signal you'll see the AC waveform from the sensor. With the proper settings on your scope you'll be able to easily count all of the teeth on the sprocket by looking at the waveform. With an inductive clamp on the spark plug wire, you're seeing spark voltage going to the plugs, not ignition trigger from the ECU. Spark voltage will vary depending on many conditions, but primarily by plug gap and cylinder compression. At idle you'll often see the spark voltage increase and decrease with slight changes in idle speed. If you see a constant difference in spark voltage between one plug wire and another, that's usually because the plug showing the higher voltage has a wider plug gap, and the energy in the coil has to build to a higher voltage before it can jump that gap.