Fairtax4me

Auto or manual?

This is the grey area that is the TSB. But as you've found, unless you can produce impeccable records of ALL oil changes done at the exactly correct intervals, it's very difficult to get a manufacturer to side with you. I used to see a similar scenario on a regular basis working for a dealership chain here. An engine would come in damaged, oil change history would come up, and there was almost always some discrepancy in the oil change history that would be cause for denial of covering the replacement under warranty. Twice in six years I saw the manufacturer cover an engine replacement, because the owners had been to the same dealership for every service visit, and had not even once been over the mileage for a service interval. If an oil change has ever been late, or there are no records of it being performed, the manufacturer has more than enough ground to say the defect was caused by improper maintenance, they can effectively wash their hands of the matter, and that's the end of their involvement with it. For the consumer it sucks, but ultimately it is up to the consumer to prove that all maintenance has been properly performed in a timely manner, even if "should" should ever arise.

I don't think the owners manual specifically says they are built into the same case. Its kind if of vague on some (most) things. Yes, the manual shares the case with the front differential, as well as the center differential on AWD models. If you search here for "easy transmission front seal replacement" (or something to that effect) that thread has good pics of how all the guts are arranged inside the manual trans.

Did you buy this car from a dealer? Any warranty on it? Codes matter big time. There are about a dozen different codes for those two systems. Some are totally benign, others cause big problems.

Evap: your feed line from the fuel tank runs up and connects by the fuel supply and return hoses on the drivers side. The hard line runs below the manifold and ends in a bitch of a spot to get to between the 1&3 intake runners, then there is a short loop that goes to the purge valve which is mounted under the number 3 intake runner. What you need to do is run a hose from the big tube on your canister to that hard feed line where it stubs out under the manifold. Run another hose from the small tube on the canister to the port on the purge valve where that short hose is connected. The other port on the purge valve should be connected to manifold vacuum. Is the hood on your car the original? There should be a routing diagram for all of the vacuum hoses on the bottom, but it won't be correct if the hood is different. Also, did what engine did your car originally have?

Find an auto upholstery shop. They can replace the whole section with a vinyl lookalike that won't wear as fast as leather. You'll be hard pressed to tell the difference, and it really doesn't cost that much to have one section repaired.

80w-90 Gl-5 is what all of the older models use. Newer stuff Subaru came up with their own fluid that is supposed to allow easier synchro engagement. These run for hundreds of thousands of miles with GL-5, so the issue isn't that the fluid damages the synchros. The synchro issue is nothing compared to eating up the front diff, which will happen very quickly by using the wrong fluid.

A tune-up is always a good place to start with any new car. Spark plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, PCV valve. What are the code numbers for the evap and O2 sensor?

The answer to this is out there somewhere. I'm pretty sure on newer models the screen was ditched because of problems with it getting clogged. Actually I thought the reason for "should" was to remove the screen on the models that were having this issue, but I could be wrong on that. Either way, a TSB only does you any good if you ask the dealer about a potential problem. It's not a recall, in the regard that the dealer is mandated to perform a repair, problem or not. A TSB is basically just an informative bulletin with no action required.

Pull the intake hose off the turbo and check the turbine shaft for play.

Id recommend replacing the clutch fork while you have it apart. They are known for wearing at the pivot and breaking. Replace the clips on the release bearing as well. They're only a few $ and will cause major problems later if they break. Check the quill on the transmission for wear. The aluminum gets work and causes the release bearing to engage the pressure plate unevenly, this causes only partial engagement of the clutch and shuddering. If the quill is worn get a repair sleeve kit. Some new clutch kits come with the sleeve and matching TOB.

Are both tires wearing on the inner edge? Does the back end of the car look like its sitting really low? The rear springs on these wear out and let the back end sag. Too much sag will throw the camber off and wear the inner edges of the tires.

Adjusting the clutch cable will make the cutch slip if you adjusted it too tight. High release point means the cable is too tight. The clutch could have been slipping before and wasn't as noticable. Should have 1/4" of play in the release lever when the cable is adjusted properly. Also have to adjust the hill holder cable when adjusting the clutch cable or the brakes will drag when releasing the clutch. Loosen the hill holder all the way, Adjust the clutch cable, then turn the adjusting nut on the hill holder cable until it just starts to pull on the lever on the hill holder mechanism. Broken spring on the clutch pedal should be replaced because it pulls the pedal up when your foot is off of it. This could be part of the reason your release point feels too high if the pedal is resting on the cable all the time.

You mean the one that goes from the crossover to the IAC valve? Or the one between the IAC and TB? The one from the crossover to the IAC Subaru updated the part number to use the same hose as the one that runs from the bypass/ heater pipe to the throttle body. It looks goofy at first, but it works fine. Had to replace mine years ago and wasn't optimistic, but the master tech at the dealer here told me they did it all the time and assured me it would work. Haven't had any issues, even in this last winter when we had frequent single digit temps in the morning.

Location does have an affect on price. It varies depending on how popular a particular vehicle is in your area and how much demand there is for that vehicle. Prices of those look Ok to me if theyre both in good shape and have all current maintenance done, such as the timing belt and idlers mentioned above. It is also wise to have a trusted mechanic inspect any vehicle prior to purchase to identify any problems.

The only real difference is the facelift between 05 and 06. Underneath everything is going to be the same. They did add variable valve timing on the 06 engine which can be problematic if any oil changes have ever been neglected. Both of those are prone to external leaks from the head gaskets so be sure to ask if the Head gaskets have been replaced. That's about a $2,500 repair, so consider that as an extra cost for future maintenance if they have not previously been done. If one of those vehicles has had the gaskets replaced already, that one will likely be the better choice for longevity.

I want one of those dyno machines! Sounds like my kinda engine build! Backyard style! I'm sure your shop is much cleaner and more organized than my shed though! It looks like there should be enough room to do it with the case assembled but that tool they used in that video reaches in there pretty far. Hard to get a good torque when you use a 12" extension to reach the bolt.

Trim level would be X, XS, or XT for those years. Trim level affects the value of the car. There is also a LL Bean package that adds value. The XT has a Turbo engine and will cost more to maintain.

No difference as far as I know. What are the trim level, mileage, and cost of each?

Have to swap the whole knuckle. You cannot get the backing plate for the brakes off without removing the hub, which means tearing out the wheel bearing. Swap the entire knuckle assembly and brake cables and it'll work.

Should bolt in but you'll probably need to swap the seat belt latch.

If the coolant level isn't low the heater core is plugged.

It won't move? That aint gonna change by putting it in Fwd. Front wheels are constantly powered 100% all the time no matter what. If it doesn't move at all the trans is hosed.

Can do up to about 04-05 N/A engine no prob. In either 05 orn06 the heads changed and got active valve control, those engines will be a no-go into a 99.

For an oil change? I don't know if there even is a book time for that.