Fairtax4me

Sorry you got the wrong ones. Fronts should be the same though. Grab some rear struts from a 96-99 Outback and you should be good to go.

Phase 2 heads flow somewhat better but the difference is moot if you're doing a non-turbo setup. Although You can be right at that 160 mark with a phase 2 2.5. For the 98 2.2, the phase 2 heads won't work without the whole harness and ECU. Phase 1 and 2 heads have different intake port designs. The intake manifold has to match the heads, and the phase 2 manifolds use a different idle control setup which requires using the ECU and wire harness that matches the manifold. The single port vs dual port thing, again is kinda moot. Unless you're running a turbo there isn't enough difference to make a difference.

Gonna have that on any engine. Not a big deal as long as the PCV valve is clean.

Fuel vapors will get in wherever they can. Doesn't take much for you to notice a strong odor of gas inside the car. Put a couple drops of gasoline on a rag and leave it in the trunk and you'll smell it everywhere in the car in a mater of minutes. Pump access is behind the rear seats, make sure the access plate is secured properly and the foam gasket is there. A leaking filler tube is the typical source for leaks on these cars, but if you live in a rust prone area the outlets on the pump assembly can rust and leak as well. When you check the access plates take a good look at the top of the pump for evidence of leaks there.

Pressure loss isn't a big deal if it takes 2 minutes. The pressure build is what you should be concerned with. After the pressure drops off, crank the engine and watch for the pressure to build. It should be almost instant right back to 35 psi. If it takes 10-15 seconds of cranking to restore fuel pressure, you probably need a new pump. Another thing that's quick and easy to check is the vacuum hose going to the pressure regulator. At the end of the rail on the passenger side. Pull the vacuum hose off and see if gas drips out. If it does, you need a new regulator. Extended cranking time is usually due to a fuel issue, but just to make sure things are up to par, how old are the spark plugs, filters, PCV valve? Pump assembly Cap and o-ring problem are only on 2000-2004 models, so you've nothing to be concerned with as far as that goes.

The problem isn't entirely due to the weight of the oil, but also because its a synthetic oil. Synthetics work in roughly an opposite manner of a conventional "Dino" oil. Synthetics are based on a high viscosity oil, and have additives that allow them to "act" thin. Dino oils have a low viscosity base and have viscosity improvers that cause them to thicken as the oil heats up. When Dino oils are new, and the viscosity improvers are fresh, a 5w20 oil can become almost as thick as a 5w30 when at operating temperature. The viscosity improvers break down with use, and the oil appears to "thin" as it ages, but the base oil actually thickens as it breaks down. We don't typically physically see this with gasoline engine oils because of things like fuel dilution and water contamination, plus we usually drain oil when its warm, to speed up the drain process and make sure any solids in the oil are suspended rather than settled on the bottom of the pan. This means with a 5w-20 conventional oil you will start to see accelerated oil loss as the oil ages. Once past that 3,000 mile change interval, it'll go from a 1/2 quart loss to a 1 quart or more of loss in a shorter time period as the VIs break down and the oil becomes thinner at operating temperature. Synthetic does the same thing, the base oil will thicken as it ages, but the additives in synthetic break down at a slower rate, which means better stability over time. If you were to age a 0-20 synthetic oil in a controlled manner, the base oil will eventually thicken to be a 25 or 30 weight oil, but the additives in the oil still allow it to flow much easier than a Dino oil. It's because of the additives that give synthetic oil its fluidity that it can flow past the piston rings much easier to be burned in the combustion chamber, but it is also vaporized easier by piston ring blow-by (compression that is forced past the rings), and is carried out by the PCV system. If we remove the additives that make synthetic thin, its cold flow properties and stability (the two main reaons for using synthetic) go out the window, and you basically end up with a straight 20 weight non-detergent oil. Though it's more highly refined (fewer impurities) than a typical conventional oil. The best option is really to switch to a conventional oil, but you can't go too thick, because the cold flow properties ofa conventional will cause accelerated wear on cold startup. A. 5w-20 or 5w-30 conventional will work fine. The higher the first number, the thicker it is at cold startup, and you begin to run into issues with poor lubrication due to insufficient oil flow. A 20w-50 for example, will be too thick, even in the summer, to provide proper lubrication until the engine is almost to operating temperature. Emily, do the newer rods allow enough access to torque the bearing caps with the block halves already assembled?

Parts for Subarus, really depends on what parts you need where you go to get them. Some parts are dealer only, but things like water pump and timing kits can be purchased aftermarket for less. You can get cheap kits on eBay that are great for the 60k timing interval. If you want dealer quality for about 1/2 the price there are plenty of options as well. Mitsuboshi timing belt, NSK, NTN and/or Koyo idler bearings, and an Aisin water pump. TheImportExperts.com carries all of those. The only thing performance wise you'll be able to do with that engine is install a set of cams. Delta camshaft does regrinds on stock cams to produce several different power curves. Its a noticable boost in power for only about $250. Other than that, more performance is going to require more displacement. A 2.5 block with the 2.2 heads makes for a good high compression setup with lots of bottom end power. An oil cooler is not really necessary on that engine. The ground clearance issue rules out using a factory cooler that attaches between the filter and block because it moves the oil filter down almost as low as the bottom of the oil pan. A remote oil filter setup could be used but it really isn't necessary. These engines just don't make that much heat.

Volkswagon is the reason! Turbo H6, probably not gonna be doable. Like CCR said, they're high compression and have nothing in the way of aftermarket performance parts (pistons rods etc) The H6 are gonna be Outback or Baja, or the lardy Tribeca. SVX have their own special problems and are hard to find. Turbo, a WRX is a good starting point. Lots of aftermarket support, plenty of info availabe for what works and what doesn't as far as engine performance mods. Every Subaru model is available at some point with a turbo 4 cyl. Check cars101.com and do some reading in the archive section for details.

Is the plug cruddy looking inside? Could just be a loose terminal in the plug. I would think the problem is near the relay or in the connector if wiggling or moving the relay makes it work again.

Those are emission family ID numbers. That only tells you the type of emission equipment on the car. (O2 Sensor type, evap system design, Cat design) As long as both engines are SOHC 2.5 they'll swap fine. If the legacy has the DOHC 2.5, no way it'll work.

Didn't catch before that this thread is 4 months old. I checked the FSM on those connectors. The small grey 2 pin is for the backup light switch. The brown 2 pin next to it is the Nuetral position switch on the trans. Those are normally attached to the same bracket as the other connectors on the bellhousing. The harness for those runs across and down the left side of the trans to the switches at the rear of the trans. The large grey 6 pin connector is for the front O2 sensor. The grey 3 pin connector is for the speed sensor on the trans. These are also normally attached to or near the bracket on the bellhousing. There is also a connector for the rear o2 sensor somewhere in that area. Its grey with 4 pins. There is an extension harness for the sensor that runs down the side of the trans in the same place as the wiring for the 2 switches. It should have white plugs on the ends.

Little late on that reply. Last AT filter I got was about $35 from the dealer. Luckily they don't need to be changed that often.

There's a filter in there. Pull the battery out and you'll see it inside the fender area.

Yes. Probably a bad u-joint. The u-joints can be replaced but you may run into issues with balance afterward. Most driveshaft shops can properly replace the joints, but there are three joints and a carrier bearing built into the assembly. To replace one joint is gonna cost $100-125, most of that being labor to properly center the new joint and weld/stake it in place, then balance the assembly. This leaves you with two other old joints ready to cause the same problem in 6 months or a year (or less). Not to mention the carrier bearing. To do them all at once and replace the bearing is the only reliable option and that will cost almost as much as just buying a new driveshaft. There are options for replacing the u-joints yourself. Some people have done it and had good results, others have had balance issues afterward.

Alot of these have problems with the connectors burning. That's usually pretty obvious though. Have you tried swapping bulbs left to right to rule out a bad bulb?

Your original axle probably has a tripod style inner joint and the replacement has a double offset ball type inner joint. Difference between an auto trans axle and a manual trans axle. Still works just the same. As long as the splines count the same it'll work fine.

http://beergarage.com/SubySeparator.aspx The access plate I was talking about is the diamond shaped on the opposite side of the crank.

If you buy that gasket kit, ditch those cheap rump roast head gaskets and buy Felpro head gaskets separately. Felpro head gaskets for that engine have the Fuji "check" logo stamped in them. They are OE parts for half the cost of going to a dealer. Usually can be picked up at autozone for about $25 a piece. Other parts: Separator plate. If its plastic, replace it with a new metal one. About $40 for the kit with new screws from a dealer. It's an updated design so you do need the new screws. I think Dorman is making an aftermarket version now for a little cheaper. Seal with anaerobic or Ultra grey RTV. If it's already metal just reseal it with one of the above sealers. The access plate o-ring on the back of the block. They harden and crack and will leak like a seive. Replace the o-ring or remove it and clean thoroughly and seal with RTV. Coolant crossover pipe o-rings. They get old and cruddy and will leak coolant. Replace and coat them with Indian head shellac and they'll never be a problem. Easy on those bolts because they can snap if you torque on them too hard. Bypass hose elbow. The one that goes to the thermostat housing. These are the silent killer. It blows out and all of your coolant dumps out before you even know it. Get one from napa for about $5 or the dealer for like $8. Dealer hoses fit perfectly and require no trimming. Upper and lower rad hoses are a good idea to replace as well. Can be done later but you gotta take them off anyway so might as well replace them. Remove the oil pump. Check the backing plate screws, make sure they're tight. An impact screwdriver is good for this. Reseal with a new o-ring (purple/blue color) best from a dealer. Use anaerobic flange sealant to reseal. RTV can break off in small pieces and clog the feed ports for the rocker shafts and starve the lifters. Anaerobic doesn't do that. 14mm 12 point 1/2" drive socket for the head bolts. Most other gaskets and seals should be included in the kit.

The other plugs have nothing to do with the manifold. Manifold plugs are the large grey and brown and those will plug in just fine. The grey 3 pin plug I think is the front 02 sensor, speed sensor I think is the one with the orange in the connector, and the grey and red/brown are for neutral and reverse light switches on the trans. Those are the harness ends so the switches are either gone or unplugged and hanging down on the other side of the trans where they come from.

It'll bolt in, but some other things will need to be changed. You'll need to use the turbo pull style clutch kit (the release bearing pulls the diaphragm spring out instead of pushing it in) And you may need to swap front axles due to change in the inner joints that happened around 04-05ish. No need to swap ECU.

No shut-off/kill switch on these. Definitely check the small wire on the starter. Also try moving the shifter to neutral if it's an automatic.

There is a pair of connectors under the dash on the drivers side, 1 green set, 1 black set. When the greens are connected it puts the ECU in test mode which causes the ECU to cycle all of the solenoids and relays. Useful for testing certain components. The black connectors are for read/clear memory. They allow you to read codes from the computer and clear them. I don't remember the exact procedure on the Obd1 cars, but some combination of having those two connectors plugged in erases stored codes in the computer. Make sure both of those connectors are Unplugged! I don't know if this will cause your no-start, but those connectors are not to be plugged in except for testing purposes.

Trailer wiring connector would be a good place to check. On previous years they would hide it in the left rear corner of the cargo/ trunk area behind the panels, or it would be hung out somewhere behind the bumper on that side.

Detonation isn't a knock. Its more of a "clack", only when under load. Unless the purge solenoid was open to outside air (broken vacuum/evap hose) it would pull gasoline vapor from the evap canister and fuel tank and would slightly enrich the A/F ratio, especially when driving steady, or during high vacuum condition such as during decel or at idle. On heavy acceleration it wouldn't make any noticable difference. This is a 96 right? Id bet your "knock" was a collapsed lifter. Those will come and go as they please. Normal on the 2.2 of that era.

Have a question. Ordered a set a few weeks ago and they have some spots on them that piss me off more the more I look at them. This looks like its where the hooks were that they hung the springs from while they applied the powedercoat. The thing that bugs me, is there is already surface rust in these spots. I'm in rust country, it's unavoidable, but I'd like to avoid it as long as possible. Is this something that everyone else who has bought these has noticed as well? Or am I getting riled up for no good reason?