Fairtax4me

Is it a knock or a tick? Any difference when Cold? Warm? You can remove the timing cover on the drivers side and check the tensioner through there.

The turbos only have 1 cap. Its on the coolant expansion tank which is part of the sealed (pressurized) system. Nothin wrong with plastic end tanks. The one in your car lasted 14 year didn't it?

Ouch. Still gotta wonder why they were doing anything with the TCU in the first place. Don't worry, your aunt will be back in a Subaru after that jeep.

96 Legacy L 2.2 lifted 4" does 26-27 highway, 25ish on 70+ interstate. 95 Legacy L fwd 2.2 does 32-33 highway. 30-31 interstate.

Yes, just move the pivot to match the lever you need to use. There are two threaded holes in the case. You can tell pretty easy which lever needs to use which pivot mounting hole by looking at the distance from the end of the fork to the pivot hump on the lever. The pivot just unscrews. Should be 19mm IIRC.

Is one hydraulic and the other cable actuated? The pivot position has to be moved depending on which it is.

What was the actual code?

Did you try punching it? I'm not sure if the seat belt dohickie and the airbag use the same sensor. Is the passenger airbag "off" light illuminated?

Yes it does, and in that as it would cause multiple cylinder misfires, and set codes for multiple cylinders, not just one.

No need for new. Front mounts are the same. Rears may be different but are usually fine even with a lot of miles so you can just use the ones you have.

Sounds like head gaskets. 2nd failure probability? Depends on quality of the work and quality of the gaskets used. The new MLS gaskets need a VERY flat and VERY clean surface in order to seal properly. "Good enough" is not good enough on this engine. Sealing surfaces have to be perfect or the gasket will fail. You've made it 40k miles, I would have to suspect the quality of the gaskets used. The fast way to tell if its head gaskets is already there, bubbles in the overflow. Don't waste money on a block test kit because it will probably not tell you anything. These frequently pass hydrocarbon tests just fine even when the head gaskets are bad.

The problem with that is the cost. A knuckle ( even a used one will cost something), the bearing, new hub and seals, plus labor for assembly... The cost adds up. Not to mention, that whole setup is heavy, which adds to the shipping cost if its sold online. Its much cheaper to take your own knuckle to a machine shop and have them do the press-work for $40-50.

The fuse supplies power to the power window relay coil. Main power for the windows comes from a circuit breaker somewhere under the dash. I wanna say its mounted on the lower panel under the steering column. check here for the 97 FSM and wiring diagram: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Should bolt in fine, nothing much changed until about 07. Probably will need to use your top hats. Those get swapped all the time. Front mounts are the same. Legacy, Impreza, forester all use the same front mount for years.

Yes the top mounts are very expensive. If the rubber on your original mounts isn't cracked, just re-use them. The rear mounts dont ever really go bad unless rust has eaten them.

You're getting ahead of yourself. How does the plug on #3 look? Clean? Covered in gunk? You changed the plug, and the wires? Did you put new wires on or just swap them across to see if the misfire followed? You've checked the injector for operation, but that doesn't tell you if its actually spraying fuel, or if it's spraying the correct pattern. Drain the fuel rails (pull the FPR off and blow into the supply hose going into the rail) before removing the injectors, otherwise you'll dump 1/4 of gas into the manifold. Pull injector 3 and injector 1 and swap them. Check it for anything obvious before putting it back in the rail, carbon buildup on the end, junk all over the screen, etc. Lube the o-rings with some oil to ease installation into the rail. If the misfire follows the injector to cylinder 1 replace it. Jumped valve timing will cause misfires on at least two cylinders. It will also cause significantly low compression on the same two cylinders. Timing light = ignition timing which set by the ECU. Ignition timing IS NOT the same as valve timing, which is set by the timing belt.

Have you replaced the rear bearings yet? Those are the common noisemakers on the Foz. Easy check is to fold the rear seats down. If the rumble gets louder, one of the rear bearings is bad. Dunno about fitment of the 05 legacy knuckle. Might check opposedforces for interchangeability on that.

You've gotta run some ROUGH miles to wear out a set of OE Subaru struts in 75k. The originals frequently make it 200k or more before they need to be replaced. Used low mileage is not a bad option for OE Subaru struts.

You saw it get "hot" once. The question you can't really answer is: how many times did the previous owner run the thing until the needle pegged in the red? Most of the time the way people find out the head gaskets are leaking, is when the engine overheats. The engine is out, pull the timing covers off and remove the cam sprockets. Then check the rear timing covers for any signs of melting where they attach to the heads. If the covers are melted, the engine was way overheated, and will need bearings.

Overheating is the main killer of these engines. Cylinder wall damage is almost never a factor on these, but rod bearing damage is. The 2.2 is not prone to rod bearing failure, unless it has been overheated multiple times. If you know that it hasn't been overheated, pop some fel-pro head gaskets on it and call it a day. If it has been grossly overheated several times (temp needle pegged in the red and all the coolant boils out) only then would I consider a replacement engine. As far as hoses go. Upper and lower radiator, and the elbow bypass hose on the side of the water pump are the ones that I always replace even if they "look good".

There is a fuse but it will not affect operation of just one window. Problem is either the switch or the motor, or wiring between the two. Pull the door panel off and see if you have power getting to the motor when you move the switch. Its common for the contacts in the switch to corrode. Some can be disassembled and cleaned and re-greased with di-electric grease and work fine again. If the switch contacts are corroded you'll have power on both wires at the same time, indicating a bad ground contact. Or have no power on either wire, which would be a bad power contact in the switch. If Both wires change between 12v and ground when you flip the switch back and forth, problem is probably the motor.

WRX= 2.0 turbo STI= 2.5 turbo If you have a whole car a swap isn't that bad, but you'll need to swap the whole dash harness to make the ECU work, mechanical parts will all bolt in just fine, it's the wiring that makes this kind of swap tricky, and very time consuming.

Awesome! Glad to help! Note to self: signal switch = dealer part

The real question is, how many times was it overheated? The 25d block has tiny rod bearings and they don't take kindly to overheating. If you're up for a project, split the block halves and pop new bearings in it. Otherwise, find another engine to drop in it. 2.2s are robust and a popular swap.

Somewhere around 02-03 they did away with the stub shaft that sticks out of the trans and changed to an integral stub as part of the inner cv joint. Put a prybar on the flat of the inner joint and give it a quick tug to pop the joint loose from the trans.