Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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Denso is the normally recommended brand for these, as well as for most other Japanese and Asian vehicles. I normally try to use Denso, but if I can find the manufacturers name on the original sensor on the car I match the brand with that sensor. Double check the connector and make sure the pins are clean and it's clicked together all the way. -
Year model engine? Sensor Brand does matter. A cheapo sensor is more likely to fail because of an internal fault/defect. A quart of oil in 4,000 miles isn't a huge deal, but if the PCV valve is old, it's a good idea to replace it with a new Subaru PCV. A worn PCV valve can cause increased oil consumption.
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Timing belt was replaced at 100k? What about the idlers and the tensioner? Did you clear the codes to see if they come back?
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Why kind of NGK plugs? Make sure the wires are clicked on all the way.
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Torque bind usually only happens when turning. What brand and type of plugs were used and what brand of wires? Those 2.5 engines are very picky about plugs and wires.
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I don't think it would puke ALL of the fluid out of the rear seal. I've never even really seen one leak. Maybe a little dampness at most. How many miles are on this car and was any work done to the trans or driveshaft before this? Is there any evidence of leaks anywhere else on the trans?
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Sounds like a good deal for a plug-in scanner that will read live data. At this point we do kind of need to see what the computer thinks is happening. Freeze frame is a set of data that is stored when a code is set. The ECU records things like engine speed, temperature, vehicle speed, fuel trims, and some other things that can be useful for diagnosing intermittent issues. Freeze frames are only stored if a code is set. I do think its a good idea to invest in a code reader or scanner or some kind. If you have a smart phone there are even less expensive options that can be made to work with the Torque App, and the use of a Bluetooth OBD2 interface/adapter. There are also plenty of programs available for computers that can use the same bluetooth or a USB connection. Rom Raider is one of them, but I'm not sure if that will work with the 99. Evoscan is popular and runs about $75 for the program and the adapter sold by Evoscan. You can also make your own or order one premade for a bit less.
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Warm start problem is due to the ECT sensor. The ECT goes bad and the computer thinks its -40° so goes full rich on startup. This floods the engine on warm starts which takes longer cranking time to clear fuel out of the cylinders. It will also hurt fuel economy big time. The windows on these are a pain in the rump roast. Probably the regulator is damaged but there are several points where the regulator has to pivot and slide. Pull the door panel off and you should be able to figure out where it isn't attached anymore. The regulator is a scissor type with a big damn spring in the middle and takes some trickery to remove the motor from without hurting yourself. It also has multiple adjustments that have to be made when replacing it.
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The connectors are kind of a multi-piece deal. A locking section of the connector has to be removed before the terminals can slide out. This helps prevent terminals from being pushed out while plugging the connector in. Find a junkyard car to get some terminals from, and learn how to remove them without breaking the connector in your car. The MT Identifier will fix some idle issues and IAC codes but will not likely take care of the EGR problem. Its worth a shot to try but the EGR stuff is usually programmed into the ECU. There are ways around it, you can either put an EGR intake manifold on the engine and run a hose from the intake tube to the EGR valve. Or you can swap the ECU with a non-EGR unit from a 96-97 2.2 non-EGR car. This still requires grounding the MT identifier pin and will need the neutral position switch on the trans to be connected to the proper pins on the ECU.
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On a 95 just run V-power coppers. If you want to use platinum, For waste spark systems you need to use NGK Laser double platinum. Single platinum plugs wear too quickly and will cause misfires on one bank. Which code?
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How does the fluid look? Clean and red? Or is it dark and burned smelling? It could have both an external and internal filter. The external filter looks like an oil filter. If it has the external filter, it will be on the left side near the front corner of the pan sticking off to the side. The internal is inside the pan but its just a mesh screen and really never needs to be replaced. A blinking light usually means the trans control unit has a code stored. There's a connector under the dash that you ground one of the pins in order to get the light to blink the codes. There is a secret handshake involved that you may be able to find out by googling. Also make sure the engine is running properly by giving it a tune-up if it hasn't had one recently. Shifting problems are often caused by an engine problem. Fix the engine problem, shifting problems go away.
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Was the check engine light on before having it scanned? Has it ever blinked?
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$1200 because of the transmission (torque bind) problem and the mileage. Needs two more tires and a $500 clutch pack to fix the bind. I sold my 95 LS auto wagon in near perfect shape, great tires, new brakes, absolutely no rust, no torque bind, 180k miles, for $2100 a few years ago.
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I haven't done any racing with these but the chassis is very similar to the Impreza, just a bit longer. Check on DirtyImpreza in their racing and offroad sections, lots of guys there that rally race and do some pretty serious off-roading. As for weak points, the places I've read about are where the crossmembers and trailing arms meet the floor pan in the back. I've read about the floor pan tearing in those places but that was on rigs that were doing serious offroad and trail / rock climbing.
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There is supposed to be a light in the console. They burn out all the time. Plugs under the dash, a black 6 pin and a yellow 9 pin are diagnostic plugs. The yellow is Subaru SSM and the black is test plug for the TCU Airbag and ABS modules. Grounding certain pins in that plug causes the corresponding module to blink any diagnostic codes it may have stored. It doesn't sound like you have a trans problem. The trans may be seeing more input from the throttle position sensor and holding gears longer because that's the way it's programmed. More throttle = higher shift points. There is a lot of drag in the AWD drivetrain and these tend to engine brake pretty well on the highway, especially if you're running in the 3,000 rpm range.
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Was the battery disconnected while doing the work? Also What year? and does it have Electronic throttle?
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If you only need about 3/8-1/2" a set of "saggy butt" strut top spacers will help correct that. The rear springs on these cars tend to wear out and sag when they get old. If the struts are leaking replace the rear struts and springs.
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Check the vacuum hose to the sensor. Should T into the line for the fuel pressure regulator off the back of the number 3 intake runner.
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Yes, the ECU receives a signal when the AC is turned on. It then raises idle speed to correct for compressor drag, turns the cooling fans on, and grounds the compressor coil relay to engage the compressor. On newer cars this is done via the communication network that all of the modules in the car use. On the older stuff (pre 05 ish for Subaru) the ECU gets a 12v signal from the thermal sensor on the evaporator core. On many newer vehicles it also sends signal to the TCU to alter auto transmission shift points slightly to account for the extra throttle needed during acceleration.
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Random stalling is probably the MAF sensor. NSS code could be misadjustment of the shift cable or Park/Nuetral switch. What's the actual code number?
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Id start by checking for any vacuum leaks and cleaning the IAC valve, if it has it. Also check throttle cable adjustment. If it's the engine with electric throttle, the TB may need to be cleaned.
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On modern cars the ABS is often the first thing to be Disabled when the battery voltage is too low. The ABS hill assist and TCS are all done by the ABS control module on those, so if the system is disabled you get warning lights for all 3. Leave it at the dealer overnight or over a weekend and have them test the battery in the morning when its cold.
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There's a plug. The sensor harness runs about 12" or so and there's a plug just above the trans crossmember.
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My first guess would be the cats are plugged. Did he unbolt the header from the engine? P0420 code means some condition is happening and the computer thinks the cats are not working properly. The causes for this code vary widely, but generally if the code comes on, there is potential for the cats to get overheated and melt which will cause them to clog up. It's better to address a P0420 sooner rather than later because of its potential to cause costly replacement of the cats. Timing could be an issue but that typically causes a rough/shaky feeling because it will create a misfire condition.
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Yes they need to be hooked up.