Fairtax4me

Grab what's left of the key with some vice grips and twist/yank it out. If the cranks sprocket is stuck tap the holes and use a harmonic balancer puller to pull the sprocket off. More than likely the crank is fine. Just sand/grind down any rough spots, fit the new key and new crank pulley.

Felpros are good for this engine. You can even seen the Fuji check logo in the lower part of the gasket just left of center. Auto trans is a pain in the rump roast to pull still attached to the engine. Doable but way more work than its worth here, and no real reason, and you have to take WAY more spoob apart to do that. Try looking on youtube for a video of someone taking the torque converter bolts out. They aren't that bad you just need the right tools to fit down into there. You can use a 12mm wrench but it needs to be a 6 point so you don't round the bolts. Once all the bolts are out use a prybar or late screwdriver to push the torque converter back away from the flexplate (toward the trans). Make sure it stays shoved back while you're pulling the engine. A trick I use is to bolt a wrench to the bellhousing so it presses against the converter. If the converter slides forward it can disengage from the pump drive in the trans and can damage the pump when you bolt the engine back up to the trans. This may be why your friend wants to pull the whole thing together, but this isn't an issue if you make sure the converter doesn't slide forward.

Do the parking lights work if you flip the top column switch On? Even when that switch is off all the power for the parking lights goes through a set of contacts in that switch, which makes it a common point for a power problem. If you've verified all of the fuses are good, pop the trim off of the column and see if you have power getting to the parking light switch.

The white cylinder is a small filter. That line goes to the MAP sensor on the passenger strut tower. The other line coming from the T goes to the fuel pressure regulator.

City or highway, or is that combined? Auto or manual trans? There are a handful of o-rings on the fuel rails that can leak especially if any work has been done recently that involved removing the fuel rails. Check carefully at each end of the rails, check the short section of hose on the fuel pressure regulator and make sure the clamps are tight.

Polk DB651 Good sound and they can handle some power.

17 mpg on the highway? That's just plain awful. More than likely needs a front O2 sensor. You should not take the car on a 400 mile trip with it running that rich or you will need cats by the time you get back, IF you get back. Take a different car or rent a car for the trip.

Flip the parking light switch on top of the steering column a few times and see if they start working.

Who said its clogged? Do you have a P0420 code? Cataclean will not fix a clogged cat. Waste of money and time.

Can you move the input shaft forward/back? For all 4 wheels to lock the problem is going to be in the trans itself if there is no physical damage to the center diff. Split the case and you'll probably find something all fudged up in there.

Not easy, but doable. Like bratman said, extension and wiggle the socket up into there.

Check the purge valve to see if its stuck open. Just need to find the vacuum hose where it goes in the manifold and try to blow through the solenoid. No air should flow. If it does,replace the solenoid.

Should say in the owners manual. 30k is kind of a general rule. Better to change it sooner than later.

Do you have that on both sides (left and right)? Since the front speakers work, compare voltage to those and see if its the same. I have seen some decks cut power to either front or rear or all 4 speakers if one channel is shorted to ground. When you swapped the stereo did you swap the adapter harness with it?

It runs along the left side of the trans until about halfway the. Loops across the top in a diagonal fashion towards the right side. It then runs up with some other wires and is clipped to the bracket on the top right corner of the bellhousing. It's a 4 wire plug, either grey or white. Should look the same as the plug at the sensor end of the harness.

$125 is great if you don't have to pull it yourself. Sub-frame = crossmember. Same difference. Be prepared for rusted stuck bolts on the lateral arms. The crossmember to frame bolts also can seize to the captive nut inside the frame and break the welds that hold the nut then the whole thing just spins. The diff mount nuts are difficult to get to, and are usually pretty rusty. If you're lucky the nut will pull the stud out of the diff housing and you can lower the diff without having to remove it from the T- support.

A glasspack IS a resonator. Its a pipe surrounded by fiberglass. The main point of a resonator is to help absorb some of the raspy sound that you can get from a straight pipe. You need an actual muffler to make it quieter. Flowmaster sounds decent, but a lot of Subaru people go with Magnaflow. Advanceautoparts usually has a small assortment of standard magnaflow mufflers for about $100 each.

Resonators are non-restrictive. They typically have a straight through pipe that has holes in the sides, surrounded by fiberglass. The major consideration for restriction is the diameter of the pipe.

Yes, there are four 12mm bolts that secure the flexplate to the torque converter that need to be removed before separating the engine and trans. Kinda tricky because you need a thin profile ratchet, and they can be pretty tight. It helps to remove the intake manifold so you have more room around the access hole.

Collapsed hoses indicate air in the system. When the system is hot it pressurizes and has to push some coolant out into the overflow bottle. When the system cools it draws a vacuum and pulls coolant from the overflow back into the radiator. Normally coolant supports the hoses because the liquid cannot be compressed. When there is air in the system the hoses can suck flat because there is not enough liquid to support them. Air is getting in somewhere, either from an external leak or from combustion gases being pushed into the cooling system through a leaking head gasket. Top off the fluid level in the radiator and burp any air from the system, then keep a close eye on the coolant level for the next few weeks. Check the level in the radiator and the overflow in the morning or after the engine has cooled for several hours. If you continually have to add coolant, but have no evidence of leaks, a bad head gasket is likely. Typically if there is an external leak you will be able to smell coolant when the engine is warm. If the head gaskets are leaking you will have coolant loss with no smell of coolant. Another sign of a bad head gasket is pressurized hoses after the engine has only been running for 30 seconds to a minute.

For a few years around that time these had some issues with an o-ring seal on the return hose to the pump allowing air into the fluid. The air causes the noise on startup, and can cause hard steering when cold by it usually goes away when its warm. I would suggest a fluid flush after replacing the oring on the return hose where it attaches to the pump.

The trans control unit has to sense a bit of slip of the front wheels before the rears will engage. This is a slight disadvantage of the auto trans because the fronts are constantly driven wheels, and the rears are driven by a clutch pack that will not transfer power until the TCU senses slippage so there may be a slight delay, but it will engage the rears after a second or so. It's better if you ease onto the throttle rather than hammer it right away. If your Impreza has a manual trans, all 4 wheels are driven at the same time so there is no delay in engagement of the rear wheels. And like 86 said, with the electronic throttle, the throttle opening is slow so its going to have a slight delay before the engine responds to a change in throttle pedal position. Quick repeated on/off throttle changes will cause it to act very strange. And wide all-season tires are a definite disadvantage in snow. I've seen many an SUV have all 4 wheels spinning and hardly be able to move through 3-4 inches of snow because the tires are so wide and have a road based tread design. A set of dedicated snow tires with a 205 width instead of the 225 (or whatever size they are now) will make it unstoppable in snow.

Does that year still have the EJ engine or did they all switch to the F series by then? It seems to me the F engines are the ones having the most oil consumption trouble.

Very odd to see rust on the roof like that. The lower corner like that is sometimes called a dog-leg but I don't really know the industry term for that part. As far as I know nobody makes Patch panels for these cars so most people end up making their own or cutting them from a junkyard car. That part inside the door jamb I would just do with fiberglass or Bondo.

Coil polarity doesn't typically matter on a relay. It should work either way but you can test it pretty easy with some jumper wire/aligator clips.