Fairtax4me

Unfortunately that's a common problem with those years. The bolts on those are actually pretty tough, the bigger problem is going to be if the captive nuts inside the body have rusted. If the welds on those break the nut will just spin with the bolt then you have to cut a hole in the floor to get access to the nut. If the car is heavily rusted you might be better off to find a car with less rust and swap your suspension and engine.

Belt is the same as far as I know. The kits usually have a belt tooth count listed. Should be the same tooth count for both kits. Verify that then get the tensioner pulley that you need.

A good place for checking tire and wheel sizes is www.willtheyfit.com

Depending on the wheel offset, that tire size is likely too large and the tires will hit the rear strut spring perches. Overall diameter of that tire size is slightly larger than stock Outback tires. Outback tires drag on non-outback struts.

Does the engine rev up while its in gear? but the car doesn't go any faster? Or are you saying you can rev it fine when its in nuetral? Is it a manual or auto trans?

Check the lower corners of the condenser.its common for the bottom corners to corrode and start leaking. Avoid Stop leak in the AC system at all costs.

Undo the bolts and let it separate about 1/2" then go fishing again. You could also try turning the engine a half turn either direction in case the bolt is sitting behind the flexplate on a ledge.

Wire harness has to match the electrics on the intake manifold. If you want to do a turbo setup you'll need a turbo ECU and body side harness, and turbo manifold harness to match. Use the intake manifold that matches the ECU and wire harness. Use heads that match the manifold. You're better off to use a turbo block because its a stronger design (look up the difference between open and closed deck), but the 2.2 blocks can handle some power if properly built and managed. You can run a stock 2.2 bottom end with a turbo but the longevity will be questionable. The EJ22T crank and rods are forged, which makes them stronger and more suited to turbo use. And the 22T pistons have a deeper crown which gives a lower compression ratio. The rest is just gathering the necessary parts for the turbo system: headers, up-pipe, down-pipe, intake tubing, intercooler, etc. The wiring and tuning will be easiest if you use a turbo harness and ECU. This will require some wiring to be done in the car to integrate with the dash harness, or will require an entire dash harness swap. Megasquirt is a viable option if you're up for setting up ALL of the wiring going to the control unit and figuring out the tune parameters. Megasquirt sounds cool but it is a TON of work and no guarantees that it actually will work. You can use an ECU that's compatible with RomRaider or Evoscan and do the tuning yourself, or you can use a Cobb Accessport for tuning and Cobb even has pre-made maps for many setups.

Did they replace the tires AFTER your initial test drive? If yes, I would suspect the tires. What brand and model are the new tires? You can search for reviews of them on google or one of the many tire sites and see if other people complain of noise associated with that tire. Alignment has no affect on differentials. Mismatched tire sizes will have an affect on the differential, but any damage done typically takes thousands of miles unless there is a huge difference in size.

The Double platinum plug (not to be confused with a Bosch platinum + 2) is designed specifically for waste spark systems. Platinum on both the center and ground electrodes prevents the wear that causes misfire problems in waste spark systems. The 05 Outback non-turbo 2.5 uses NGK double platinum FP5AP-11.

You can use NGK or Denso wires if you like. I think double platinums are recommended for that engine but I'm not 100% sure. If you have the owners manual it will say in there.

Ratio is going to be model specific. Forester and Legacy Outback manual trans from those years have 4.10 ratio. Same with Legacy GT. A Legacy L, base, or Brighton model would have a 3.90. Most Impreza models had 3.90. There's no easy way to tell just by looking at the trans. The only way to know for sure is to count the teeth on the ring gear. There are charts online that you can check the trans number on the bellhousing against, but those arent always accurate.

Which frankenmotor do you want to build? Many different combinations of heads and block can be put together and made to work. It all depends on if you want to do N/A or Forced induction, and what car you want to put it in.

Have you unplugged the ECU and checked for any corrosion in the connector? Wiggle test the wire to make sure it isn't a loose connection at the ECU pin. Next step is replace the ECU. 96-98 Legacy ECU is needed. If your engine has EGR, you need an ECU from a car with EGR. Also try to match the Evap system. If yours has the charcoal canister under the hood, get an ECU from a car with the canister under the hood. If searching eBay or used parts sites try to match up the 10 digit part number on the ECU. Generally, EGR and Evap system differ between Manual and auto trans cars. So when searching online be sure to indicate auto or manual trans to match your car.

Updated Diagram and schematics for your viewing pleasure

Ok, here's the scoop. Alldata had the goods on this. ECM is supposed to receive a 12v signal from the evap themoswitch. At Evap thermoswitch: 12V comes in through the yellow wire, pin3. The ground is supplied via the the AC switch/ mode control head. 12V is applied to the Brown/yellow wire, pin 1. This wire goes to ECU pin 60. 12v applied to ECU pin 60 does three things 1. command the ac relay control to ground 2. commands AC sub-fans to ON 3. commands IACV to raise idle speed to compensate for compressor drag If you apply 12v to pin 60 the ECU should make everything work (compressor engage, sub-fans turn on, idle speed raises). If so the evap thermoswitch is bad. You've already checked ground through the control head and that works, and you verified 12v is present on the yellow wire at the evap thermoswitch, correct?

They'll bolt on just fine. If you have phase 1 heads get in touch with Cometic gaskets and have them make a 2.2 head gasket to match the heads, but with the proper bore size for the 2.0 bore. The normal head gaskets for the 2.0 will block coolant ports on the 2.2 heads.

Funny you mention that because there's a thread here started just a few days ago with that switch in question. Can you see where the temp probe is inside the air box?

The park brake shoes could be totally worn out or the self adjusters are locked up. Pull the rear discs off and check the condition of the shoes. They're a royal PITA to replace too. Also possible the cable is broken on one side.

Cracked ring land. Burned valve will usually make 0 compression. $100 is still good for a rebuildable block though.

Bypassing the relay isn't a good idea because the evaporator will ice over and can rupture. The pressure in the system is fairly well regulated by the expansion valve, so the compressor will continue to run indefinitely. The thermal switch on the evaporator is used to keep the core temperature in the proper range to prevent icing. I suppose you can try it and see if the compressor cycles on/off as it's supposed to. Still trying to determine proper operation of the evap thermoswitch. Check if the ECU is supplying power to the evap thermoswitch, unplug the connector and see if you have 12v at pin 1.

They changed to an 8 bolt bellhousing in 99. You can use a 98 or earlier trans, you just have to make note of the clutch release fork pivot location. The pivot is in a different spot on the cable release fork. You'll only use 4 bolts in the bellhousing, Subaru did it that way for years. You can use up to a 2002 trans. In 2003 they changed the front axle design and did away with the stub shafts that stick out of the trans. Technically you could use 03+ axles but that adds to the cost. Try to stick to Forester 99-02 if you can to make the swap as easy as possible. If you can't, Legacy Outback and GT models 96-98 have the correct front diff ratio and you can use them. 99-02 Outback you can use as well. You usually have to swap things like speed sensor and reverse and neutral switches because a lot of junkyards just cut the wires on those.

Hmmmm... Something isn't making sense here. The AC switch gets 12v direct from the fuse panel. I had come to the conclusion that the wire diagram must have an error because I don't see how the circuit can work properly the way they've drawn it. The diagram shows power from the AC fuse goes through the pressure switch, then the compressor thermal switch, then ties into the Blue/orange wire which is grounded by the ECU. But if the ECU supplies ground there it will just blow the fuse. I think the yellow wire from the compressor thermoswitch is supposed to tie into the yellow wire from the evap thermoswitch, thus supplying 12v to both the evap thermoswitch and the AC relay coil. The relay coil is then grounded by the Blue/orange wire via pin 31at the ECU. This is how it's done in the 95 diagram, which is the same minus the compressor thermoswitch. It looks like the AC switch is supposed to supply 12v to the ECU via the evap thermoswitch, but if the mode control panel is grounding that circuit, then the ECU must be supplying 12v to the evap switch, and current flow in the circuit is being monitored to determine if the AC switch is On or Off. I checked the 96 diagram against the 97, and 99 diagrams I have and they are all the same. When I go to school later I'll check Alldata and see if they have an updated diagram or better diagnostic checklist for the AC system.

No hydraulic adjusters on that engine that I'm aware of. Lash clearance is adjusted by removing shims from the bucket. It's usually best to check the clearance, the if that valve needs adjustment remove the shim and measure the thickness (or look to see if there is a size etched or stamped on the bottom), add or subtract to determine the desired clearance and order a new shim to match. People have also swapped shims from one valve to another to obtain correct lash clearance. This saves a bit of money since buying 16 new shims can add up.

www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Check here for the factory manual for your car. The wire diagram for the AC system has the pinout and wire colors for the connectors.