Fairtax4me

Yikes! $40/qt is more than I remembered! Pretty sure the Valvoline CVT fluid is blue.

Part number for the shift linkage part with new bushings. Number 6 in the diagram here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_17/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/

Its common for the release fork to wear and crack at the pivot point. The pivot then pushes through the fork. Shift linkage doesn't affect the clutch, but since you have to pull the trans to replace the release fork get a new "Boss" for the linkage and fix that while you're at it.

That smell is probably oil dripping on the exhaust from a leaky separator plate. Have to pull the engine to fix that. An intermittent misfire won't be caused by an "old" timing belt. If the belt jumps a tooth you'll have pretty constant misfires on both cylinders on the side that jumped. I would guess the misfire to be spark plug or plug wire related, especially if the weather there has been wet recently.

Injectors don't spark. Spark plugs are what make the spark. If you have a blinking check engine light that indicates a steady misfire. This is usually due to worn spark plugs and old spark plug wires. Replacing those is always the first place to start. Use NGK brand for both.

Always a good idea to change transmission oil around 30k regardless of oil type. The CVTs do need actual CVT transmission fluid. Subaru sells it, last I checked it was pricey pricey. Valvoline sells CVT fluid that meets Subaru spec and I've read of lots of people on SubaruOutback.org using that as a lower cost alternative to the dealer fluid. You can do some research there or try searching Subaru CVT fluid on google. The fill procedure is pretty straightforward, but you do need a flexible funnel IIRC. I know there was a thread on SO with more details.

Did you only leave it jumped for 10 seconds? Relay to compressor clutch is a straight shot, so if the relay is jumped the compressor will run continuously. Thermal switch on the compressor should be normally closed. I can't find a temperature diagram for that switch so I don't know at which temps it should open. If you have 0 ohms there AND at the pressure switch on the drier then you should get 12v to the coil side of the relay (pin 85) with the key On. Check for 12v at both of these by back probing the connectors. The relay is grounded by the ECU, with the engine On and AC On you should have continuity to ground through terminal 86 at the relay holder. If you have no ground at 86, find the evap thermo switch connector behind the glove box. This is a black 3 wire connector just above the resistor block (blue connector) You should have 12v at pins 1&3 when back-probing the evap switch connector with AC on. The evap switch provides 12v signal to the ECU that commands the relay to ground. The AC switch in the dash grounds the center pin, the thermal switch on the compressor sends 12v to pin 3, and pin 1 is 12v out to the ECU. Should have 12v at pins 1 and 3. If you have 12v at pin 1, check pin 60 at the ECU for 12v. Pin 31 at the ECU is ground for the relay coil. Check for continuity to ground there with AC on. Check for 12v there with AC off. Edited for incorrect info and some bad spleling

I see. Definitely check the wiring first. It possible it has rubbed on the heat shield and chafed or cut one of the wires.

I assume they were supposed to replace the axle since they removed it for some reason? Sorry, the "Marketplace" is the classified section here. Look under "parts for sale", or you can post in the "parts wanted" forum.

The map sensor is very low priority on that engine anyway. It is mostly used for barometric pressure reading to help the ECU determine elevation. The main air density calculation is made by the MAF sensor. Haynes manuals are often wrong, Take anything you read in them with a grain of salt.

It's been a while but I think it should be 1.2-1.5v at idle and around 3.5-4v with no vacuum. (Pull the vacuum hose off)

What did they do with the axle? Try looking in the classified section here, there's bound to be somebody that has one.

S2 = downstream sensor. Any work done to the car recently that might have required unplugging the rear sensor?

Spark plug and wires are the first thing you should have changed way back when the light was flashing before. NGK brand on both and you'll be running smooth again.

I can't find the thread, but I do remember he was having a problem with power getting to the main relay and fuel pump relay. The problem was in a connector with 8 or 10 wires where power from the fuse panel under the hood comes in and joins the main dash harness.

Someone had a power delivery issue a few months ago and found a corroded terminal in a large connector high up behind the instrument panel. I tried to find it but haven't had much luck. He ended up having to bypass the connector with a new section of wire.

Transmission won't make it bog down. That sounds like an engine problem causing erratic shifting. If you have to use more throttle to keep the car moving the trans will hold gears longer because it thinks you're still trying to accelerate. How old are the spark plugs and wires? Air and fuel filters? PCV valve? Any broken or loose vacuum hoses? Are all of the large breather and PCV hoses properly attached to the intake tube?

Have you checked the fuse for the AC in the underhood fuse panel? The switch on top of the drier is a dual pressure switch. It does not react to temperature. This should be normally closed so if you have no continuity across it the system pressure may still be too low. There is a thermal switch but it is inside on the evaporator core. There MAY be a thermal switch on the compressor, which will have a 3 pin plug. If the compressor has only one wire in the plug, there is no thermal switch on the compressor. Splices near the ECU are just the end of the sheilding around the signal wiring from the sensors on the engine.

Ouch! If that thing was on there bouncing around it probably let the timing jump on the 135 side. Bent valves are pretty likely. Remove the oil filter and cut it open and look for a bunch of metal in there. If there's not alot in there its probably ok to pull the heads and fix the valves. If you find tons of metal in the filter there's a good chance metal has made its way into the lower bearings and there will be no point trying to fix it.

Orange coolant is a problem. That's probably dexcool, which is just plain awful stuff. Be sure to flush the system out very well before putting in new Subaru coolant. Bubbling in the overflow is a sure sign of a head gasket failure.

I have no idea what either of those are. Euro market cars aren't that much different than Us market. What year is your Impreza? Are you trying to lift it? or lower it?

How did I miss this? Did you make sure the battery cables are clean and tight? Usually starting issues are battery or worn contacts in the starter solenoid.

Consider renting a truck and trailer to do the tow. West Va is pretty hilly and the Tribeca will have a hard time with that terrain. No sense risking tearing up your own car to save $200. You should also check with local towing companies to go get it. Sometimes you can work out a deal for a lower rate on long tow when it's not a critical "need it done right now because I'm stuck on the side of the road" sort of thing.

The oil could be from sticky oil control rings or the drain holes in the pistons are clogged. I wouldn't worry about that too much. Some oil running down is normal because the oil control ring holds oil to lubricate the cylinders. You can run some MMO in the oil to help clean out the rings. Yes the brown seals in the Mizumo kits are good quality and they fit well. Separator plate, just get the kit from a dealer. It's about $40 for the plate and all 6 new screws. Do not re-use the plastic separator plate.

It does look like the compression rings were compromised, especially on the right side. Clean it up, have the heads machined and put new gaskets on it. Fel-pro head gaskets for the 22 are the same as what you get from the dealer, but at half the cost. I've used Mizumo timing kits several times and have been happy with them. Their gasket kits I can't comment on but you can piece together your own pretty easily.