Fairtax4me

Flashing AT temp light could be because of many things, but it means there is a code stored and you can get the light to flash the code. Search for TCU codes and you should find directions for code retrieval. Anytime fluid gets splashed around under the hood you're going to smell it for a few days. Especially ATF because that stuff is nasty when it burns. Unless you can find another leak somewhere, make sure the fluid level is correct and drive it a few days and the smell will to away.

Sway bar links often make a light clunking sound. You'll almost never be able to grab the links and reproduce the sound by hand. If there is perceptible play when its on the car, that things gonna be clunking like crazy driving down the road. Usually you can grab them with a pair of channel locks and squeeze them and look for play similar to checking a tie rod end or ball joint, sometimes they will click a bit of you squeeze them quickly. Most of the time you have to remove the link so you can move the studs by hand and check for looseness.

Here's a similar noise in an STI : Having a little too much fun with the go pedal.

Ooohhhhh that is nasty and sharp. I'm inclined to think wrist pin or rod bearing. Maybe not the bearing making noise, but the rod could be hitting the block. It sounds like its running rough when you open the throttle part way. But it idles too well to have jumped timing or bent valves. You'll only hear bent valves one time anyway. Maybe twice if it skips a little more, but then it will be so far out of time it'll hardly run at all. Maybe its camera trickery... I swear I see sparks or arcing of some kind near the alternator when you first start revving it up.

Only if "a long time" means 6 months. Silverstars are notorious for burning out all the time.

I can't see embedded videos on the mobile. Can you post a link to the vid?

Don't know for sure but Subaru paired up on MAP and MAF sensors for several years. On MAF based fuel systems the primary air density calculation is done by the MAF and the MAP is only used for secondary checks. Generally if the car has EGR it will also have a MAP sensor because the MAP signal is used to determine if the EGR valve is opening by measuring the pressure change in the intake manifold. This is paired with inputs from the O2 sensor to determine EGR flow. Some also use the MAP sensor to check purge flow of the evap system. And as said before, the MAP is used to determine elevation. Higher elevations need less fuel to maintain stoichiometric ratio because the air is less dense. The ECU checks this as soon as the key is turned On, and also periodically while the engine is running.

A fast clicking could be from the electronic throttle body, but those typically only click once or twice as the throttle valve opens and closes for testing. There are other things under the hood that click such as the ABS control unit. Typically that's nothing to worry about. I remember my GFs 06 Forester being hard to start after doing the valve cover gaskets. Double check any connections, then try starting again but this time hold the gas pedal about halfway down while cranking. That will get it started if the cylinders are flooded with fuel.

Unplugging the sensor makes the computer default to an "open loop" status, which means it runs on a preset fuel mixture and doesn't adjust the mixture (adjustments to the fuel mixture are called "fuel trim") based on O2 sensor feedback (because it can't when the sensor is unplugged). This means that if the O2 sensor is causing a problem due to incorrect feedback to the computer, the engine should run better with the sensor unplugged. The computer doesn't always revert back to the default fuel setting right away, especially if the fuel trim is off by a substantial amount. Sometimes the computer needs to be reset by unhooking the battery for 15 minutes or so to reset the fuel trim to 0. With the problem occurring more often with the O2 sensor unplugged, probably means the O2 sensor is not the problem, but try resetting the ECU and driving with the sensor unplugged again.

You made sure the cam sensor is plugged back in? Its in a tight spot and not exactly easy to see on that engine. I don't think gas would have stayed in the connector for very long because it evaporates fairly quickly. Did you make sure there was no liquid in the connector before plugging it in? The intake tube is firmly clamped at both ends? MAF sensor plugged in? Intake box is assembled properly and clamped shut? A little bit of oil in the cylinders will not prevent starting. You'd have to take a hammer to the valve train to break something in there. A little persuasion to get the valve cover in/out didn't hurt it a bit. A little gas splashed on the engine internals will not hurt anything.

Possibly the cable sheath is not seated in the bracket on top of the trans. If that's ok, check the u-clip that the cable end fits into on the top of the pedal.

The PSSSV switches the pressure source for the MAP sensor. It changes between atmospheric pressure and engine vacuum so the ECU can tell what elevation you're at. Not a super high priority sensor, the ECU only makes fine adjustments to fuel mixture based on MAP input. On your car it really only uses it for determining elevation. That hose being loose will cause a small vacuum leak which can cause a lean condition at idle. Misfire is likely spark plugs or old plug wires. Front O2 sensor could cause this as well.

Not two brake switches. One switch. Two sets of contacts in the same housing. There isn't a light in the cluster as far as I know. Should only be the lamp in the main switch. If that works the control module is at least enabling the cruise system. Check the power coming from the selector-switch (subaru calls it a sub-switch). There's a black connector under the steering column with three wires in it. One is red and green, that's your power going in for the cruise sub-switch and the horn. The two wires coming out are for set and resume commands. Push the switch and watch for voltage on those wires. Pulling the switch to cancel applies voltage to both wires. If you have 12v going in, but nothing coming out suspect the clockspring. If you have voltage on both wires when pulled to cancel, but no voltage when set or resume, suspect the switch.

So, you bypassed the switch and it worked? Brake switch has two sets of contacts. Separate for the lights and cruise. Cruise contacts should be closed when the pedal is up, might check the adjustment on that. The newer models don't have a relay for the cruise so you probably won't hear anything clicking except the switch. Fuses are good? Does the light in the switch turn on when the switch is pushed?

Nope . Some of the idlers might be the same but the belt is a different length. Probably better to just get a new kit for the 06.

No amount of coolant additive will fix an already bad head gasket. This is not as uncommon as you might think. We've seen several threads here recently concerning bad HGs on the H6 engines. SubaruOutback.org has more. They tend to make it into the 200k range before having problems, but over 200k miles You should expect ANY engine to have possible head gasket issues.

My sister had a Toyota Camry with a split cv boot. I had ordered the new boot to replace it, but she got impatient because she needed the car for a trip to play a music gig. She took it to another mechanic and had the whole axle replaced. She took it on the trip, drove home, drove the car every day for another month. One day she was sitting at a light and went to drive off when the light turned green, the axle slid out of the diff, cocked crooked and chewed the splines out of the diff and off the end of the axle. Left so much metal in the diff it wasn't repairable. She made it about 2,500 miles on it and it sent her car to the junkyard. The circlip for the original axle was found still engaged in the side gear, and the circlip on the new axle was half jammed in the gear. Hard shifting could have been the stub shaft sliding in/out and re-engaging with the splines in the diff. The splines where the stub shaft engages the side gear in the diff are probably damaged. There is a circlip that holds the stub shaft in. Possibly the circlip was damaged when the old axle was removed, which allows the stub shaft to slide out. If the stub shaft popped out of the diff the splines on the inner end of the shaft are probably damaged along with the splines in the side gear in the diff.

The TPS can be difficult to get plugged in all the way. Was it removed for any reason? If the TPS was removed it needs to be re-adjusted so the ECU gets the proper signal voltage when the throttle is closed. There could also be an issue with the reference voltage going to the sensor. Double check the large connectors at the bell-housing and make sure they're clean and clicked together all the way. Also check the ground bolts on the manifold up top by the coil. These are the grounds for the ECU, and need to be clean and tight.

Engine light will stay on any time the engine is not running. Check the intake box and tube and make sure its seated together at the bottom and the tube is properly installed and firmly clamped at both ends. Also make sure all of the PCV and breather hoses that attach to the box are properly attached at both ends.

You have a broken axle or the axle spline has popped out of the front diff. The side that's sticking out is the problem. Remove that axle entirely. Inspect the inner joint where it slides into the stub shaft for the diff. If the stub shaft has slid out of the diff check the splines on the shaft as well as the splines in the side gear in the diff for damage. Hopefully it's just the outer spline that engages the axle joint that is damaged. This would be the best case because you can just replace the stub shaft and axle. If the inner spline is damaged, damage inside the differential is likely, and will probably require replacement of the diff side gear. This is a fairly common problem with aftermarket axles. Usually due to incorrect removal/installation of the axle, but sometimes it just because new aftermarket axles are spoob quality.

That's about right too! We priced new struts (whole unit w/spring) at about $200 a side and labor at just over an hour per side.

Yes that's what I figured. I could understand a little bit of compression of the mount cushion when there is weight on it, but these just seem like they're totally collapsed. With the car sitting on the ground, the little cup on top is sitting 3/4-1" above the top of the strut tower. I would think that is supposed to sit directly on the tower, or maybe only slightly above it. Just seems like a bad design to me. Didn't Dave have some back problems? Seems to me he was having some trouble after an accident or something and sold all of his Subaru stuff. I could be thinking of someone else.

Nipper, yes, just like that. 28 is the mount cushion that is below the tower, 26 is the little cup thing that sits on top of the tower.

Common thing on a lot of cars is for the little plastic cushion/seat that the clutch switch presses against will break, and then the switch plunger just sticks through a hole in the pedal bracket. Don't know exactly how its done on the 99 Foz, but that's an easy thing to check, and can usually be fixed by taping a dime to the little bracket with good electric tape.

Yeah the turbo engines have it in an odd spot underneath the turbo. Still easily accessible compared to some I've seen. (Cough... Dodge... Cough)