Fairtax4me

Normally the MAF is mounted on the filter box on the passenger side. If it has a MAF the split in the bolt will cause it to read low which will lean the A/F mixture at idle. Wrap the boot in electrical tape for a temporary fix. Also it will help to twist the plastic part upward some so the boot sits naturally. And I'm pretty sure there is supposed to be a hose clamp where those two plastic sections meet.

Do you have a voltmeter? Easy way to check for a bad ground is check voltage on the ground side when the bulb is on. Check voltage the ground wire, it ahould be less than 0.1v. Any more than that indicates high resistance to ground. Then check on the base of the bulb. If you get higher voltage at the bulb base the socket is not making good contact or there is corrosion between the ground pin and the wire terminal inside the socket.

Should be around 560-600k ohm. In the picture it looks like the intake boot is split. Does this thing have a MAF sensor?

The shielding on the sheilded wire keeps out interference. It needs to be grounded with the shielding for the crank and camshaft position sensors or you can get goofy signals going to the ECU. O2 sensors operate at less than 1v so any interference in the O2 circuit will cause the ECU to alter fuel trim. Not a good thing on a turbo engine.

Do you have the car? Valve clearance should be on the emissions label on the bottom of the hood.

The leather power heated seats, leather trim, and sunroof add some heft. H6 VDC limited is the king of the hill at over 3,700. From cars 101.com 2003 Outback page:

Yes. Tapered roller bearings are almost always done in pairs. For wheel bearings they are always a pair. Here's a good cutaway of a modern tapered roller set. On older vehicles the bearing sections were all separate. You have 2 outer and 2 inner races with the rollers in between supported by the bearing cage. The modern bearing all has the same parts, just assembled into one package. The inner races are still separate, but the outer races are machined into the same piece.

Baja's were made from 03-06. Same body style as the 00-04 legacy Outback. Same basic suspension for all years but there were differences in springs on the later turbo and H6 models. King springs offers stiffer stock height and raised height springs depending on if/how much you want to lift. Primitive is the only U.S. supplier I know of.

You removed the valve and cleaned it? Did you clean the pipe and the port in the manifold? If you use a screwdriver to open the valve (carefully to avoid damaging the diaphragm) when the engine is idling, does the engine stall? Was the replacement BPT new or used? Aftermarket or Subaru OE?

Trailing arm? Or the lateral link bolt? Are you replacing the bushing? Or taking it apart for some other reason?

If pressing harder into the housing made it work, one of the terminals could be backing out when the reader is plugged in. Easy to check if to can get the back of the connector visible. Or the terminal is too loose and is not making contact with the pins in the reader plug. This can sometimes be determined by pushing on the plug perpendicular to the connector. Unfortunately there isn't an easy way to tighten the fit of the terminals. But you can pull one of the other terminals out and cut/swap it with the one that is too loose. Pin 7 I believe is data for Subaru SSM connection. I'm not sure if a standard scanner also uses this wire. I would think the obd2 reader uses pin 11 for data, but I can't say for sure. The terminals on those could be swapped with the ones from the wires that goes to the check connector.

Same way you pack any other bearing. You just have to do it from both sides. Pack some in, spin it a few times by hand, pack more in.

On paper you can look at it and say there will be no drop, but in reality there will be a drop. There is a significant drop on the stock wiring when just one filament is burning. Double the load on wiring that's already near its capacity and you get a big time voltage drop. If you size the wiring properly to handle the extra load, the drop will be hardly noticable.

Wiring is probably the issue. Open circuit between the coil and igniter, or between the igniter and ECU. The ECU commands the igniter to ground the coil in order to produce spark. The coil halves (1-2,3-4) share common power. Igniter grounds the half that it wants to fire. If you check the outer wires on the coil plug with a test light you'll see the light blink on the 3-4 side. Should be solid light on the 1-2 side which means its not getting the ground from the igniter. Check connectors and make sure they're fully together and none of the pins are bent or backed out. Unplug the coil and igniter and check continuity from the 1-2 wire at the coil plug to the igniter plug. Wires should be the same color at each end.

Minus accessories the SOHC 2.5 weighs in at right about 225 lbs. If your pulleys/ rafters can support that you should be good to go. Pulley holders aren't usually necessary. Removal and tightening of the cam sprocket bolts can be done by wrapping the old timing belt around the sprocket and the crank. Holding the crank is easy with a screwdriver or prybar jammed in the flexplate. There are holes on either side of the block perfect for a screwdriver to fit into. Pic about 1/3 down on this page: http://beergarage.com/SubyTBelt.aspx The Right stuff is good for the oil pan. For the pump you'll want to use Anaerobic sealant.

Funny! Ill second that. Frequent oil changes are a must for proper timing chain maintenance on the 3.0. 300,000 is easily reachable as long as you stay on top of regular maintenance.

Reseal the separator plate on the back of the block. Replace the access cover o-ring (diamond shape cover opposite of the separator plate) or seal it with RTV. Rear main seals often don't leak until AFTER they've been replaced. More than likely the RMS is fine. If you do decide to replace it, be sure the new seal gets driven in perfectly straight. If it has the oil cooler where the oil filter spins on, replace the big o-ring gasket between the cooler and the block. Valve cover gaskets for sure. Head gaskets are kind of a toss-up on those years. I wouldn't bother with that unless there is major evidence of a leak from the head-block areas. Replace the little elbow "bypass" hose that runs to the side of the water pump. Also replace the coolant hoses that go to the oil cooler if it has it. Those often get covered in oil, and oil soaked coolant hoses are a ticking time-bomb.

Kinda sounds like the test mode connectors are plugged in. This will cause fans to turn on/off, and relays and solenoids to cycle. Look under the drivers dash for two green connectors with single wire in each. Make sure they are Unplugged. The lock problem is not likely related. There is a timer module for the locks which can go bad, there are also a lot of reports of bad lock switches on the early-mid 2k models.

If it has the 4 pin TPS there is an idle switch contact that must close when the throttle is closed. This tells the ECU to bring the engine down to normal idle speed. If the switch doesn't close it will not "idle" because the throttle is partly open as far as the ECU is concerned. Check resistance pin 1- 2 at closed throttle, should be 0 ohms. Open the throttle slightly and see if the reading changes to infinite or O.L. (Or it could be the other way: infinite when closed,and 0ohm when open) if the idle switch contact isn't closing when the throttle hits closed, adjust the TPS until it does. If the idle switch never changes, remove the TPS from the throttle body and test again after working the TPS full sweep a few times. If it still doesn't change, TPS is bad. Checking across pins 2-3 will always be the same resistance regardless of throttle position. You're measuring the whole resistive strip when checking those pins. Resistance will change when checking across pins 2-4 and will be inverse when checking 3-4. Pin 4 is the "slider" or the contact that slides across the resistive strip in the TPS. Resistance changes based on how far current has to move through the resistive strip to get to the slider. A diagram usually helps to understand what's going on.

Shaking at 900 rpm is a misfire. Check the wiring to the igniter and the coil pack. Also make sure the plug wires are firmly clicked into place at each end. I've seen the coil ends pop out because they're a bit too loose and it can be hard to tell at first glance. Also, idle should be about 700-725. If it idles at 900 all the time the TPS may be out of adjustment or the throttle stop screw has been messed with.

Magnaflux is a flourescent dye liquid that sprayed on engine parts to check for cracks. Helps you tell the difference between a real crack and a casting line. No real way to check the rod bearings without pulling the block apart. Overheating thins the oil and will score the bearings. It might be fine for 10k miles or it might only make it a day. Kind of a crap shoot, might get lucky, might not. I should have asked before, did the engine overheat? Why was it taken to the shop?

I've refused to even as much as go into an autozone for over a year now. I'll go to advance occasionally, but I much prefer Napa or Federated. Especially after advance tried to sell me 15 psi rated fuel hose when I asked for high pressure fuel injection hose. 300psi injection hose from Napa.

Did he magnaflux it? If the head is cracked I can only imagine the thing was severely overheated. Probably best if you put a whole engine in it because the rod bearings will be toast in 10k.

Best PM is clean oil. Also keep in mind the passenger cam oil feed port is farthest from the oil pump, so its the last place to get fresh oil after an oil change. I always fill the oil filters on these before installing so new oil gets pumped into the block as soon as the engine is started. Leaving the filter empty takes 2-3 seconds to fill with oil and pushes air through the galleries and forces oil out of the journals. Engine spins about 45-60 revolutions with little to no oil pressure at the cams during that 3 seconds while the filter is filling up. Fill the filter with oil and it only spins 10-15 revolutions waiting for pressure to build.

This should be the DLC diagram for your car. Subarus pin locations are flipped, pin 1 on this diagram = pin 16 on standard DLC views, pin 16=pin 1, so keep that in mind when looking at this diagram. Pin 16 is your 12v supply. pins 4 and 5 are ground Pin 7 will be the data line to the ECU pin 11 also goes to the ECU. I'm using alldata at school and the way they arrange info on here is absolutely horrible. I will try to look at the actual FSM at home later and see if I can figure what signals should be on each of those.