Fairtax4me

Highs and lows are the same bulb so only one will work at a time. Fog lamps can be made to stay on fairly easily, But should only be done if your local laws allow it. Most require that the fog lamps turn off when the high beams are on. The ground for the fog lamp relay normally splices into the low beam ground near the hi/lo dimmer switch under the column. Find the ground wire and connect it to chassis ground and the fogs will stay on all the time.

You mean a 96? No 2.2s in 06. Possible the pulley worked loose and is stuck on the keyway. Spray some PB or other penetrating oil in the center to help free any rust that may be in there. Then try working the pulley back and forth with light prybar pressure on either side. It may not need much just to get it worked loose. If you have a big prybar you may be able to brace against the alternator or AC brackets to apply more pressure.

There was an update available from the dealer which changes the diagnostic monitor and how it determines the conditions for setting this code. More likely, you just need to do a tune-up and make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Look up Cardocs P0420 thread on SubaruOutback.org Lots of good info there on what to look for and what to change before replacing expensive cats or O2 sensors. Its a 90+ page thread but lots of good info in the first few pages.

How much are they asking for it? We know soobs and several of us have worked for dealers and are familiar with what constitutes a "good deal". We don't have to know exactly where it is, but the state/city its in would help determine market value. Nobody here is going to scoop it on you.( At least, I hope we're more honest/moral/ethical than that.) Any turbo vehicle is going to require extra maintenance and extra diligence in paying attention to potential problems because when unmaintained they do have the potential for catastrophic wallet damage. Frequent/on-time oil changes are an absolute MUST, or you'll have problems with varnish and sludging that will lead to turbo failure. The story above is not a common one, and won't be your experience if you keep up with normal maintenance and pay attention when the car starts smoking out the tail pipe. First things first, have it checked by another mechanic. If it's at a dealer and they drastically reduced the price, it's because it's been sitting there for a long time and they need it gone, and they're possibly already losing money on it. The question you need to ask yourself is: Why has it been sitting there so long? The answer, more often than not, is because something is wrong with it. Of course dealers are known for jacking up prices on clean and well maintained vehicles. That's how they make money, and you have to remember that they're in business to make money. Sometimes the car will sit there until the buyer comes along who is willing to pay what the dealer is asking for it. But there's also the possibility they've had to spend $10k on repairs and need to make their money back on the sale. Any oil leaks are an issue that generally cost quite a bit to fix, unless you're mechanically inclined and can do repairs yourself. Look for blue smoke from the tail pipe after the engine is warm. Any blue smoke when idling, or if you notice any when driving (particularly when the turbo is spun-up), probably a sign that the turbo is shot. Auto trans don't have many problems except for torque bind due to chewed up transfer clutches. Check for any binding/jerky feeling when making tight circles after the car is warm. Manual trans have some synchro issues because people like to shift a little too fast. They can have torque bind problems as well but not as common, same as with an auto trans, check for binding/jerk feeling when making tight circles after driving. Check underneath it for rust. Especially the rear crossmember and rear suspension. You might be in an area where cars never rust but that car might have spent some of its previous 10 years in New Jersey.

It doesnt really matter, as flow through the core will be the same either way. When installed correctly the hoses will sort of lay parallel to each other, one just above the other. If they look like they're crossed or twisted or they don't look like they're right, swap them and see if they look better. They shouldn't actually touch because that will allow them to rub together and could cause them to rub through and burst.

Not likely to damage anything short term but if left that way for a long time, yes it could potentially burn the coil out. Especially if its an old coil that could be fatigued already. If you have both, swap the coil and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't fix it, swap the igniter too.

If you've driven 300 miles, change the oil and add some new MMO, then go try the hill.

If they are still jammed even wih the battery unhooked then all 4 lock actuators are probably hosed from being powered into the unlock position and never turned off. Remove all 4 door panels and disconnect the linkage rods from the actuators, and unplug the actuators if you can. If you feel up to removing one of them maybe you can see if defrosting it will make it work again. (Maybe they're just frozen?) Otherwise, I think you'll be replacing 4 lock actuators along with whatever caused the problem in the first place.

If the car doesn't have the 16 pin OBD2 plug, no OBD2 code reader will interface with it. You might get lucky and have the adapter cable work IF the Subaru 9 pin plug has ISO 9141-2 K and L line terminals. (ISO 9141-2 is the protocol the Subaru ECUs of that era use to communicate with a scanner/code reader.) If it doesn't have those, no basic scanner is going to read any codes from it. I'm not 100% positive, but I would think plugging the diagnostic wires together way to make the ECU flash the codes should still work on that car. Another thing you can look into is FreeSSM for a laptop. This requires a 9 pin to USB or serial adapter (which are available online, or can be built by ordering correct plugs) but will give you pretty much full diagnostic capability of the FreeSSM software supports your ECU.

Sorry to hear of your troubles. Hopefully you can get something out of them via BBB complaint or small claims. I agree that a used engine would be the way to go here. Car-part.com is a good locating service that uses thousands of salvage yards. Enter year make model and scroll down the long parts list to "Engine" you can sort by zip, and narrow or widen results by distance, then click Search. Selecct transmission type on the next screen (AT auto trans or MT manual), and it should bring up some results. If none, go back to the main page and select a wider distance. Any listing that says "Core" is a damaged engine and should be avoided.

Do you have the same problem with the battery disconnected? Have you pulled the fuse(s) for the power door locks? It sounds like the lock solenoids are being powered all the time, which will eventually cause them to burn out, and will drain your battery. It might be best to leave the battery disconnected. There is a switch in the drivers door either on the latch assembly or on the key cylinder that commands the locks when the key is turned. If that switch is jammed or broken it may command the locks to the unlock position and hold them there.

Even if you don't see any reason to file a claim at the time, you always at least get pictures of the accident (ie vehicle placement) and ANY and ALL damage areas of ALL the vehicles involved. Situations like this can go sour real quick once everyone leaves the scene, especially when there is no police report. Insurance companies investigate any accidents where a claim is made by ANY party, and they can use even the most insignificant detail to their advantage.

Your connections are no good. Double check the ground where it bolts to the block. Pretty sure the bracket for the ground is held by the upper starter bolt. Be sure the bracket is clean. Also If the starter is a rebuild they will probably have painted the housing with silver paint. Grind or sand the paint off by the bracket so the starter has a good ground. Most likely your problem is at the battery though. Either corrosion inside the terminals or on the posts.

No distributor cap. Misfire still could be due to wiring between the coil and igniter, or a faulty igniter module. Igniter is mounted dead center on the firewall just above the dogbone mount. Definitely worth it to verify if the head gaskets are eaking before throwing more parts at it.

Pretty sure the 05s are a bit taller. Might have to swap the top mount but other than that should bolt up the same. Lots of people put forester struts on the Legacy models to get some extra ground clearance. Rear suspension stayed the same on the forester up to 08 IIRC.

O-rings. The one on the return side hardens and starts pulling air, hence the noise. It sounds like you may have a substantial leak if the fluid level dropped in just a day. My GFs 06 Foz is leaking from the pump and takes about a month for the level to drop from full to the middle line on the reservoir. When its warm it doesn't leak much, when it gets cold it leaks a few drips until the engine warms up. Last I checked Subaru sells a whole rebuild kit minus the front bearing. The bearing you can get from Subaru for like $12 or get from Napa for about $5. Takes 30 minutes to an hour to rebuild with basic tools and a vice. Use a block of wood if you don't have a brass drift to drive the pump shaft out of the old bearing. A pair of snap ring pliers helps as well.

If the smell is kind of putrid it could be oil leaking onto the exhaust pipes and burning off. A split axle boot is also possible and that will fling axle grease on the catalytic converter. A film on the windows during winter is common as moisture in the car condenses on the inside of the windows at night. If there is smoke from burning oil or grease on the exhaust pipes that can work its way into the car through the vents and cause a film as well. Coolant does have a sweet smell. You can open the cap on the overflow bottle and smell the coolant there. If your smell in the cabin is the same, then a heater core leak may be the cause, but I would not suspect a leaking heater core on such a relatively new vehicle. Most likely the smell is oil or grease burning off of the exhaust. Be sure to check the oil level so it does not run low on oil.

If it has the box airbox that attaches to the throttle body make sure the bottom clips are seated together properly. Throttle cable too tight can cause problems with initial startup, make sure it has a little bit of slack so it's not pulling the lever. Did you remove the fuel rails from the manifold? If so did you replace the fuel injector o-rings and the fuel rail o-rings?

Head gaskets are possible. Start it and see if the radiator hoses are pressurized after running only 30 seconds to a minute. Should be no pressure until the engine has been running for 5 minutes or so. If there is pressure in the hoses soon after starting its due to combustion gasses being pushed into the cooling system.

Is there a "sport" or performance mode button that has been pushed? That will keep the trans ratio lower to keep the engine in a higher power band. Try waiting a few minutes after starting before you drive off and see if it changes the behavior any. I suspect the TCU is holding a lower ratio to aid in warmup of the trans fluid. Letting the car idle for a few minutes before driving will help warm the fluid without making the engine do extra work. I agree that 4,000 rpm is excessive, especially for a cold engine.

If it sounds like its turning faster and smooth, it's probably a broken or skipped timing belt. You can remove the ends of the timing cover and check the belt for damage. There is a way to make the CEL flash codes on that car, find out if it has codes for anything.

What transmission does it have? The CVT trans may hold a lower ratio until the trans fluid reaches a certain temp. The regular automatics will hold in lower gears until the trans is warm. This can also depend on the terrain where you drive. If you're driving uphill the TCU sees extra throttle input and may hold a lower gear until you get to the top of the hill.

Alloy wheels have a tendancy to corrode where the bead of the tire seals to the wheel and air escapes under the bead. The best fix for this is to clean and sand the bead area smooth then apply a clearcoat to prevent further corrosion.

What car is this on? The later flywheels do have a "floating" section in the middle to aid in vibration and shock dampening. It should be transferable from flywheel to flywheel, but you need to make sure you have the proper torque spec for the bolts.

How did you test it? The computer has to see the correct voltage signal from the TPS or it will cause power problems and set codes. This isn't a very common failure, it probably just needs to be properly adjusted. ECU needs to see 0.5V from the TPS at closed throttle.