Fairtax4me

99 has an igniter built into the coil. I don't have a service manual for a 99 forester, the closest I have is for Impreza. The wire colors may be different on yours. But the pinout should be the same. Pins: from left to right with the lock tab on top 1: blue 2: yellow 3: green 4: red w/ green stripe You should have 12v on the yellow wire. Green wire is the ground. The other two go to the ECU and you will see switching voltage on those wires when cranking.

Very lucky to have no bent valves on that engine. Generally when that idler goes it just eats the belt and spits out rubber chunks.

Here's a good photo of how to stick the paper clip in. The wire has a silicone boot around to to keep out water and dirt. Feed the clip between the boot and the wire, it should slide in about 1/2". http://www.enduringautomotive.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/back-probed-sensor.jpg The TPS should have slotted holes for the mounting screws. If they are not slotted and the voltage from the sensor is off with the throttle closed, you may be able to adjust the throttle stop screw enough to get it into the correct range. If not, replacement may be your only option.

Lots going on there. Let's see if we can figure some out. 1. You're saying the marker lights don't work? Yellow lights on the front corners, and the red lamps on the rear corners and trunk/tailgate? 2. Both washer pumps are on the same reservoir under the hood, and fairly close to each other. The PO could have switched the plugs on them or replaced the hoses and connected them to the work pump. 3. The dash lights work now? Generally when people try to install an aftermarket stereo they hook up the stock illumination wire and blow out the illumination control unit, then you get no dash lights until you replace the module. Its a small black box usually mounted to the knee panel cover under the steering column. 4. Speedometer problems are common in the 99 model year. There is a broken solder joint on the back of the speedo head that is fixable if you can solder. There is a thread here called "99 speedometer fix" or something like that. If you can't find it here try google. 5. Yes you can put in Forester strut/spring assemblies. You may need to swap the top mounts on the rear struts, but other than that they bolt up just fine. 6. You'll only find that as a whole assembly. Check in the parts for sale section here because people part out those cars fairly often. 7-8. Lock cylinders can be removed and taken to a locksmith for repair. The door cylinders are always kinda iffy on these cars. Sometimes a new key from a dealer helps, they can order a key cut based on the VIN. Though that assumes the locks have never been switched out. The hangup when turning off could be because the key needs to be pushed in slightly, and there may be some crud in the cylinder that is preventing it from pushing in all the way. Maybe try a little shot of WD 40 or PB on the cylinder and work it on/off a few times to see if it frees up. If not, remove it and take it to a locksmith.

Checking resistance can tell you if the TPS has a "dead" spot, but you can't determine if it is adjusted correctly. The ECU has to get a signal of 0.45-0.55 Volts from the TPS at closed throttle. Sure, On paper you can determine that by using ohms law, but you need to know exactly the voltage and amperage of the circuit. And what works on paper doesn't work out perfectly in the real world. You'll be playing a guessing game trying to get the correct adjustment. There is no standard resistance for a TPS. Each one will have slightly higher or lower resistance than the last. (which is why they make them adjustable) The ECU doesn't care about the resistance of the part, it only cares about how much voltage signal it gets back from it. If the plug is difficult to get to, unplug it so you can back-probe it, bend the paper clip over in a U or V shape and plug it back in. Just make sure the paper clip doesn't touch anything metal.

If you want to check the TPS adjustment, check voltage on the center pin, key On. Throttle closed should show 0.45 - 0.55 volts. Sweep the throttle slowly and see if the voltage steadily climbs. Wide open should be about 4.5v.

The lifters on these engines make a hell of a racket if they bleed out or get air pumped into them. Usually takes 30 minutes or so for them to pump back up. I know how you feel. I just spent a bunch of money on both of mine, and working in the driveway in the cold isn't exactly my idea of fun. But if it means having no car payment, its worth it in the end.

There is a group of large electrical plugs on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Unplug those, make sure all the pins are straight and clean, then plug them back in and make sure they click together. A loose connection here will cause all sorts of problems, including idle problems and the CEL codes, and can cause the fans to cycle on and off if the temp sensor signal is being interrupted. As far as the radiator Fans running when you turn the blower fan on in the car. If the mode control panel is set to Defrost, the AC compressor will engage when the fan is turned on. And anytime the AC compressor is running the radiator fans will run. When its cold out and you just need the heat on the windsheild set the mode control to the defrost/floor setting to avoid the compressor turning on. Knock sensor can cause issues on low RPM acceleration, but you should figure out the reasons for the codes you have first. The IAC valve on the 99 engines isn't the most reliable. Possible that is on its way out. TPS hardly ever fail, I would suspect a connection issue or maybe someone tampered with the adjustment. Check the connectors on the bellhousing first before playing around with the TPS or IAC.

Don't go by marks on the belt. Just totally ignore them. If it has arrows to indicate direction of rotation, pay attention to those, but not the alignment marks. Line up the dashes on the sprockets with the vertical seam in the cylinder head. Make sure the crank sprocket has the notch/dot on the BACK edge of the sprocket lined up with the notch in the oil pump housing. If the drivers side cam sprocket mark doesn't line up perfectly with the seam when the belt is on, make sure the mark is slightly toward the drivers side. That will even out as the belt wears and stretches.

No relation to piston slap. My GFs 06 Forester has 178k. Keep up with regular maintenance and you'll get plenty of life out of it. If it has the FB engine you have even less to worry about because it doesn't have a timing belt.

The area is between that thinner outer section to the far right in the diagram, and the cylinder head which is just to the left. The two parts are labeled NS in the diagram. NS just means the two pieces are not sold separately. The two sections are sealed together with RTV from the factory. The head gaskets will not need to be touched, just that outer section removed and resealed with RTV or other sealant. I did a quick search and this seems to be a fairly common leak, though it's generally a very slow leak, but the area of the leak is right next to the exhaust manifold, which is why you smell the oil burning, and why you don't see any leaking.

The newer 2.5s heads are split into two sections. The lower section houses the combustion chamber and valves and has half of the camshaft bearing surface machined into it. The outer section (the carrier) is basically a plate that sits on top of the cylinder head. It has the other half of the bearing surface for the camshaft, and when bolted down holds the cams in place. The rocker arms attach to this plate, and the valve cover bolts on top of it. It is major surgery to remove, clean and reseal that carrier. If I were the one doing it, yes I would pull the engine. The engine has to be partially lifted in order to get access to the bolts that hold the carrier anyway. 3 days sounds life a safe timeframe in case they need to order parts they don't normally carry in stock. Both sides makes that a full 2 day job easy. Be glad they're offering to do it under warranty! That's a $3,000 repair if it had to come out of your pocket. This is the only halfway decent pic I can come up with right now. http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s12/type_4/engine/cylinder_head/illustration_2/

Yes, swap the plug and its a direct bolt-in.

WRX and STI are Impreza just different trim levels, so possibly. Legacy is an entirely different and substantially larger car.

Slide the seat forward all the way and you'll find a small flap in the carpet under the seat. Usually the plug can be grabbed through there and pulled up. Someone posted a picture of it here a while ago... Google turned it up! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=13256 This is the thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146486-flashing-acc-and-solid-err/

Well, the ABS issue is a fairly common occurance on the 95. But maybe some water got into the relay box on the ABS unit (small black cover) and it just needs to dry out? At temp light means the trans unit has a code stored. There's a secret handshake for reading TCU codes. If you search around here you'll probably find it.

These transmissions have issues with the mainshaft ball bearing, but not usually at that type of mileage. When you changed the gear oil, how did the old oil look? Later transmissions had some problems with the center differential that can make noise when under load, but I think that was only a thing in 99-00 when they changed a bunch of stuff in the trans.

Subarus run full flow through the heater core no matter if the thermostat is open or closed. Either the coolant level in the block is low, or the heater core is partially blocked.

All of those changes have to be done via Subaru Select Monitor, which is Subaru's diagnostic and communication interface. Check with your dealer, most will make any changes for free when you take the car in for its regular service.

I thought about that Rooster. Ive done that before on other cars, used 4x6" sealed low beam for driving lamps. The problem is regular headlamps don't work well for fog. Even when mounted down low in the bumper, the beam pattern just isn't correct for fog. They have a narrow hot spot in the center of the beam, with little spread to the sides, and the beam tends to reflect off the fog back at the driver, reducing visibility. True Fog lamps spread the hot spot wider, the height of the beam is more narrow, but the beam is spread more to the sides, which illuminates the side of the road, without the fog reflecting as much light back at the driver.

Its normal for water to drop into the inner doors when it rains. Those felt seals on the glass are NOT water tight. If they were, you would not be able to roll the window down. Their main purpose is to keep wind noise down, not I seal out water. They keep out most of the water, but they will never keep all of it out. But you should not hear it dripping. Design flaw? Yeah probably. Normally the seals direct water to a certain point and allow it to run down the side of the door skin rather than drip to the bottom. Or if it does drip, it drips onto a part of the door that isn't going to make noise. On my own car, I would pull the door panel off, set the water hose on shower, and see where the water is dripping that causes it to make noise. Mark that area, clean and dry everything. Get a few peices of rubberized sound insulation (similar to dyno-mat) and place some insulation where the water drips. The insulation will absorb the sound of the drip. Be careful not to cover any drain holes in the bottom of the door. The only problem with this is its a brand new car, still under warranty. Subaru may not be too happy with you digging around inside the doors. Subaru won't have a fix unless a LOT of people complain about it. My advice, keep complaining. Make a point of it every time you take the car in for service.

Generally some light prying and tapping mixed with a shot or two of PB, or your favorite rust penetrating oil, will get the crank sprocket moving. Those oil pumps have screws that hold the backing plate on the pump, and the screws have a tendancy to loosen and back out. If you've got over 100k miles on the engine, now is a good time to pull the pump off and check those screws.

Thanks! I think the ones I have on it are 5-1/4 or 5-1/2 so that should work. Brackets I'm not too worried about. I had to make brackets for the current lights.

How many miles?

Any Banjo bolt fitting should have copper washers on both sides of the fitting. The stray bolt looks like the one that holds the upper belt cover on.