Fairtax4me

Vacuum leak.

Probably the switch in the jamb. Brain fart. Thinking of a different car. The jam switch grounds right to the body at the switch. Remove it and make sure it's clean.

"Fail safe thermostat"? Get rid of that piece of junk. Sounds kinda like head gaskets, but the cheapo thermostat has to go first. Those things don't work correctly. Has to be a Subaru OE or OE design stat with the jiggle valve like Gates 34012. That's overheating for a Subaru. Cooling fans turn on at 204°F (95°C) and turn back off when it gets under 194°F (90°C). If temp is running above 204 and not dropping with the fans on or when moving at least 30mph it's overheating.

Did you mess with the TPS? No point removing the throttle body to clean it. Blast the spray in there, wipe the sides and the throttle plate with a rag. Any spray that's in the intake will dry up if you wait 15-20 minutes, or burn off when the engine is started.

What problem are you having, what code is being set, what have you replaced or checked to fix it? There used to be a link with a bunch of Subaru FSMs but I don't have it saved anymore. Keep searching for a Forester FSM, most things between Impreza and Forester are the same but it's always better to have the correct manual.

If it has the external spin-on filter you might consider changing that. Seems to me that I read about an issue several years ago with the ATF cooler in the radiator getting partially clogged and causing shifting problems and slipping, but it wasn't a widespread issue. More than likely the clutch pack for 3rd is worn and nothing fluid related will change or fix that. Could maybe be a sticking shift solenoid. A solenoid pack might not be too expensive from a u-pull-it yard, but it means draining the fluid and dropping the pan. 99 was a picky year for transmissions anyway, most have a problem with slow engagement from reverse to drive. usually better off to swap it with a 00-03 trans.

For starters it shouldn't have HP fluid it should have Dexron III. Did the problem start before the fluid change or after?

Check for power at the fan motor connector. And check for ground when the switch is operated. If you have power and ground, the fan motor is the problem. If you have power, but no ground, the switch or the fan speed control are the likely problem. If you have ground, but no power, fuse, or relay would be at fault. I wouldn't expect it on a vehicle that new, but sometimes the brushes in the fan motor get stuck and no longer make connection with the commutator on the armature. Usually a tap on the fan motor with a screwdriver handle will dislodge them and the fan works again temporarily. On some vehicles you can remove a cover on the fan motor and clean the area of the brushes and get the motor working properly again. Most newer vehicles the fan motor is not serviceable and just has to be replaced.

Need to take it back to the shop that did the work and have them look it over. If it smells like gas that usually means there's a fuel leak somewhere and that's a fire hazard.

There's no feasible way to mount the starter on the engine side. There's too much engine in the way. And if you could, you would need a starter that turns the opposite direction.

I noticed some time ago that the lugs on my 95 would get loose by about 1/4-1/2 turn after 1,000 miles or so after a rotation. I started torquing to 80 ft-lbs and that has never happened since. If they've been loose on the same wheel more than once it's possible the lug studs are compromised due to the wheel wobbling around. They need to be inspected very carefully for any evidence of stretching, bending, or damage to the threads. If even ONE is damaged, you should replace all 5 studs on that hub. Replace the lug nuts for that wheel also.

Glad to hear Subaru covered it under warranty. No telling exactly what the problem was without disassembling the trans. Most likely it was a damaged synchronizer. Could have been a bent shift fork.

What year is the car? Older cars have a diagnostic plug that is used to make the ABS light blink codes. Diagrams, code definitions, and diagnostic procedures are all in the factory Service manual. Google around for a PDF download for your year and model and look at the ABS diagnostics section.

No washers on the rears. The strut shaft goes through the center and a flanged lock nut goes on top. If the sleeve in the center broke its because the mounts are crap and should be tossed out. If you still have you old used mounts re-use those. Or buy new KYB.

Sounds like a locked up u-joint. The replacement joints are difficult to install and sometimes don't sit correctly in the center so you may still end up with a vibration. Junkyard would be your best bet.

Was the CEL on? That many codes usually means they haven't been erased in a while. Clear them, see if any come back.

It's sucking oil through the breather tubes and burning it in the engine. Drain the oil, clean out the breather and PCV hoses, intake tube if there's oil in there, and any that's in the intake manifold/throttle body will burn off in a short time. Valve cover gasket leaks/oil in the spark plug tubes is common. Replace the valve cover gaskets.

Far too many differences between those engines. For a semi-direct swap with your engine you need a 99-04ish Impreza, 2000-04 legacy, or 99-04ish Forester. 05 was when Subaru started introducing variable valve control and electronic throttle and it gets more complicated to do a swap in a vehicle made after that.

There's a snap ring/circlip that holds the cup in place. Remove the snap ring and pull the cup out, pop it back onto the pivot ball, then it slips back into place with ease. Reinstall the snap ring. Short shifter install shows the snap ring:

Pump power and ground, Level Sender signal and ground, and fuel temp sensor signal and ground IIRC.

Aftermarket fuel pumps are not known for reliability. Check with a voltmeter to be sure you have good power getting to the pump, also make sure the ground is good by checking for voltage on the ground with the pump running. Order a Denso or Bosch pump.

One of the mode control actuators is stripped. Could have some debris jammed in the flap that it controls or the flap could have just broken on its own. Common in a lot of American vehicles but haven't heard of it happening very often in Subarus. I can't give specifics on locations but you should be able to find it by looking/listening/feeling for the actuator to clunk. You can partly narrow it down by moving the blend controls and mode controls to see which mode makes it stop.

Pretty easy to figure out if they're in the right spot. If they're wrong the reverse lights will turn on If move the shift lever to any gear. If you have them in the right places the reverse lights only work when it's in reverse.

Those are supposed to have aluminum crush washers to seal the sensor to the case. If you took the sensors out and lost the crush washer it can thread in too far and jam the shift selector rail.

Engine off does it move into all gears?