Fairtax4me

Possibly. The slide pins can stick and jam the outer pad against the rotor if the caliper can not slide properly. You might also make sure the backing plate isn't dragging on the rotor.

I don't think a rear diff would knock. Since it seemed to stop after raising the car it could be strut related. Are any of the struts leaking? The wagons have relatively easy access to the upper strut mounts. You might make sure the mounts are not damaged and the upper nut on the strut shaft is tight.

What model year is the car and how many miles are on it?

Did you check the wheel bearing for play? The pistons will move independently of each other and one can be extended further than the other when the caliper is loose, but both should be in contact with the pad during normal operation. Put the caliper back on, or put the pads in the caliper with a block of wood roughly the same thickness as the brake rotor between them, pump the brake pedal and check to see that both pistons extend and make contact with the pad. If only one is working the caliper needs to be replaced.

2 things when running silverstar bulbs. Power Ground Most of the time the stock wiring doesn't allow sufficient current flow that high output bulbs, like the silverstars, need. Sometimes it's because the power supply wiring to the bulbs is too small or is corroded and can't deliver the proper amperage. Other times its due to a poor ground. Upgrade the wiring to the bulbs. Use relays to deliver current straight from the battery via larger guage wiring (be sure to fuse this wiring) . Ground the lamps with a large guage ground wire to a clean chassis ground such as the frame of the car. Also upgrade the lamp sockets to high current sockets with larger wires. I've done this on several cars and it makes a noticable difference in light output even with stock bulbs. With high amp bulbs this ensures adequate power delivery so the bulbs do not burn out due to being underpowered.

Know that you're in for a full set of four tires now. You can not mix two new tires and two old tires or the AWD system may be damaged. If the old tires are fairly new they need to be within 1/4" circumference of the new tires to be able to use them. If they are within 1/4", the new tires must exactly match the old tires in brand AND model design. Different tires, even made by the same brand, will have varying circumference even if the size is the same.

Generally if someone fills with the wrong fluid the trans will have major issues. Slipping or rough shifting are common, and that generally won't last long and the trans will bite the dust.

I still have intentions to try this but, have had too much school work and other stuff to deal with. Car ate a wheel bearing over the weekend. No noise Friday night when I drove home. Drive to the store on Saturday and it was fine going there. Leaving the store it starts growling. By the time I got home (3 miles) it was starting to grind the brake rotor on the caliper bracket. No noise at all, to 1/4" of wobble in 5 miles. I've never had that happen on any car. My 96 isn't road legal because of the exhaust falling apart, which I also have not had time to fix. So I'm in the GFs 95 that's been castrated to 2wd because of a bad u-joint. So MAYBE next weekend, after finals, weather permitting.

The plug is just there to join the two harnesses together. The red wire goes in one side and right back out the other. There's no connection between pins inside that plug. If you have no power at the relays, but do have it at the accessible side of the plug, I would suspect the terminal for the red wire is burned inside the plug, but there could also be a problem where the wires are spliced together. If you can get to the splice, cut part of the insulation off and look for corrosion there.

The 07 will need ATF HP. You can get Valvoline fluid that meets HP spec for cheaper than the dealer stuff. Color isn't an indicator of fluid type. It's just what a particular manufacturer decides to add to the fluid as an identifier in case of a leak. Some Mercon V looks the same as Dexron II, but you certainly can't mix those up and expect a transmission to work. On the other hand, I've seen Dexron type fluids in red, blue/green, and clear colors.

Are you using 2.2 heads and trying to get 7500 rpm? I'm not sure the 2.2 heads flow well enough to achieve that.

Probably just busted the clutch hub. The input shaft of the trans is pretty stout. Most people shear the teeth off second gear quick shifting. Haven't seen a snapped input shaft yet but nothing is impossible.

A bit of play in these isn't a big deal. Why was the right side axle replaced? Split grease boot? Rear axles aren't known to fail on these cars, but since you have a replacement axle on the right side of the car I would suspect that one first. Aftermarket axles get a bad rep here for a good reason.

Haze on the inside may just be dust or a film from moisture getting in the lens. I've cleaned a lot of headlights and I've never seen it. Even when people swear its on the inside, it just takes a bit more sanding to get through the oxidation layer on the lens. They won't oxidize inside because the coating on the inside of the lens isn't exposed to the grit, dirt, sand, salt, etc. that the outside of the lens deals with every day. Dust can get in, but that can be cleaned out by swishing mild soap and distilled water inside the housing. Here's a thread I made a few years ago. Before and after pics of the headlights on my 96 when I first bought it. ALL of the oxidation was on the outside. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/98870-fairtax4mes-headlight-cleaning-write-up/

They fail occasionally. Axle would be my first thought, but it could be a u-joint.

Normal on defrost. Its so you can point the vent at the side window to keep it clear of fog/ice.

No cold engine is gonna respond well to to WOT immediately after starting. How long are you letting the engine idle before taking off? These don't respond well to cold jack-rabbit starts. The two main issues I can think of are either a vacuum leak, or the ECT sensor is going bad. I'm leaning towards vacuum leak.

The connector you need is not in a people friendly spot for sure. This particular connector is just a click together type. The lock tab should be on the lower half. The connector should be stuck to a bracket or something and your best bet at getting it apart may be to remove the bracket from the firewall if you can. Otherwise, just get on there with a prybar and knock the connector off the bracket so you can try to pull it down where you can get at it easier. The bottom half of the connector you should be able to get to I think. That's the side that comes fom the main fuse box under the hood. The big red wire on the end should have 12V. If 12v is on one half but not the other there is a problem inside the connector, either corrosion or the terminals burned. You'll probably want to splice in a new section of wire and just bypass the connector. If you don't have 12v at all at that plug, the problem is either at the main fuse box or between the main box and the firewall.

Those are still kind of hazy looking. Try a 3M headlamp polish kit that uses the sanding and polish wheels on a drill. Those are pretty good for getting the deeper oxidation off the lens. If there is dirt inside you can try removing the bulbs and spray compressed air into the housing.

Maybe I've just had bad luck with it then. Different engines will react differently to different oils. If the PCV valve doesn't help, give another brand of oil a try and see if it does any better.

Can you match up the same red wire on the engine side of the firewall? I know its kind of tight down in there, you may be able to see it from below, I'm not sure. A mirror could also help. If you can confirm you have power from the fuse box up to the firewall, then the problem is likely to be in that connector. Many large connectors on the firewall like that have a bolt in the middle to hold them together, I don't remember off hand if that particular connector has a bolt or not.

The only times I've run Castrol In my cars it has caused high consumption and lifter noise. I don't have analysis testing to back it up, but it seems to me that it breaks down faster than other oils. I've run the Walmart supertech cheapo stuff for the last couple years and have roughly normal consumption, about a quart in 3,000 miles, and have no problems with lifter noise. I've been run it a Lot of highway and interstate over the last few years, which I attribute the consumption to. Before I started school I had consumption of less than half a quart in 3,000 miles with my 96. The 95 Has basically only seen highway and interstate use since I started driving it, and it has 244k currently, so I think its doing pretty good to use a quart in 3,000.

Scotchbrite may not be rough enough for steel. Try some fine Emory paper or steel wool. Rub in a crisscross angle pattern. You don't need to remove all of the rust, just make it smooth. The engine will take are of the rest as its running. I've run engines with much worse in the cylinders without cleaning them at all.

O2 sensor codes will usually put the ECU in Open loop which may cause low power. Need to pull the codes and figure out what it needs to correct those first. If there are still power problems after that then you can proceed with other diagnostics. MAF would typically be plugged in somewhere over on the passenger side near the fender. Check the hood for the VIN sticker and the Emissions routing label. Compare the VIN to the car to see if the hood is original. If so, check the emissions label diagram on the hood for a MAP/Baro sensor. This will tell you if the car has a MAP or MAF based fuel system. You can also try googling the location of the MAP sensor on that engine. Another thing you can do is post pictures of the engine and someone here who knows the setup Bette may be able to tell you what's what and if anything is missing. MAP based fuel systems use a pressure sensor on the intake manifold or throttle body to measure intake vacuum. These make adjustments to fuel delivery based on changes in vacuum which will change depending on throttle opening and engine speed. Its a bit less accurate than a MAF system, but they have fewer issues and the response to changes is a bit quicker since there is very little delay between throttle opening and when the computer changes fuel delivery. This is also refered to sometimes as a "Speed Density" system. With a MAF system there is an air flow sensor which measures the mass of the air flowing through the intake tube. These give a more accurate calculation for the A/F ratio, but have a bit of a delay between throttle opening and when the MAF registers a change in air flow. The MAF sensor will usually be attached to the filter box on the fender, and have a long intake tube from the MAF to the throttle body.

Just has to be a Legacy with a manual trans. L, GT, Brighton, Base all have the same. Sedan and wagon are same. Outback is different and will not work. The hanger for the center bearing is different and throws off the angle of the driveshaft which will cause major vibration. Automatic trans has a different length driveshaft and will not work.