Fairtax4me

Yeah that's pretty normal. The side with the least drag in the axle, bearing and brakes will spin more.

Cut the silicone out and pry the lid up. It has a funny edge on it that makes it tricky to pop up. It's easier if you get as much of the silicone out as you can.

You'll have continuity across the TPS regardless of ignition switch positions. Its a potentiometer, so all three pins are electrically connected inside. This you will always see continuity to all three pins with a properly working unit. The resistance from pin to pin varies as the sensor sweeps. After replacing a TPS, you have to adjust it so the ECU receives the proper signal voltage at closed throttle. Back probe the center pin of the TPS and twist the sensor until the voltmeter reads 0.50-0.55 volts. After adjustment unhook the battery negative for about 10 minutes to reset the ECU.

You could have a failed harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) or the bolt that holds the pulley to the crankshaft has loosened. If you look at the crankshaft pulley you'll notice it has two sections separated by a rubber layer in between. Its common for the rubble layer to degrade and allow the outer section of the pulley to slip. This causes noise, vibration, and since the outer part drives the accessory belts, the accessories will stop turning or will not turn as quickly as they're supposed to. This is usually visible with the engine running. Look for the pulley to wobble badly. To check for slip of the outer section, grab some white-out or a paint pen, make a mark across both sections of the pulley. Start the engine and let it run for a few seconds to let it do its shake and squeak thing, then shut it off. Check to see if the paint mark has separated. Another common issue is the center bolt the holds the pulley can loosen. Typically this happens not long after someone has replaced the timing belt and components. Sometimes it can be 10-15k miles later, but usually it's fairly soon, 500-1,000 miles. This is generally due to insufficient tightening of the bolt. This allows the whole pulley to loosen on the crankshaft, and start to spin on the crankshaft snout, and wobble badly. But this doesn't usually go away after the engine warms up. It will keep wobbling for as long as the engine is running. Check for separation of the pulley, that's more likely to fade away after warming up due to expansion of the pulley and the rubber getting hot.

The yoke isn't likely to stay in the transmission if you try to drive it. There isn't anything holding it in there, once the driveshaft is removed the yoke slides out easily. Add in some rotation and you have a flying 3lb chunk of steel. Not safe to try and drive it IMO. The better thing is to just remove the yoke and find a cup or small container to fit over the dust cap on the end of the trans. Put some RTV on to seal it or tape it in place. This will only work as a temporary cap to keep the oil from dumping out, but should allow you to move the car. The car may move but it should feel like the clutch is slipping badly. The way the manual trans works, the rear driveshaft has to be connected in order for it to transmit full power to the wheels. This is a mechanical limitation of the center differential. The center diff has a limited slip unit which is what allows it to slip while turning so you don't get torque bind, but its a fluid coupling, which means it will slip quite a bit. The center diff will essentially be open, and will transfer most of its rotation to the rear output shaft of the trans, rather than to the front wheels.

Possibly a broken axle. Whining could be from several things. Jack it up and check the axles. Spin all the wheels by hand and see if anything strange happens.

Its in there, I don't know wire color off-hand. Its possible he just flipped the switched and constant wires. Red wire is switched. This is your "turn on" wire. Yellow is constant source. The main power for the unit comes in through this one. Having the yellow spliced to a switched power wire means the whole thing loses power every time the key is turned off, even if there is constant power on the red.

FWE is the best you'll get short ordering brand new axles from a dealer for $400 each. They work out to be about $120 per side after you return the core. For less expensive options, Napa axles have always served me well, but those will be lower quality rebuilds than what FWE provides. They also have new axles at Napa that are similarly priced, but they are made in China. Another option is to buy some original green cup Subaru axles from a junkyard and install new boots yourself. This requires a fair amount of getting dirty, and may cost $60-80 per side depending on the price of the axle and of the boot kits you buy. Subaru OE axles last pretty much forever as long as you keep grease in them.

X2 what bratman said. Headlamps and lighter sockets are not normally powered with the key Off. The radio issue is because the power wires are not hooked up correctly. Pull the stereo and see if he used a harnes plug adapter or just cut and spliced all the wires in the dash.

Take a chill pill and have a little patience. The tensioner failed and is letting the belt slip. The seals inside blow out if you try to compress it too fast. Used tensioner should be fine. Just have to have some patience when compressing it. Trust me, Chevys have many many much worse problems than this. Wait til you get to the mid 2000 models where the control modules will just fail for no reason. And you can't fix those yourself, it HAS to go to a dealer to have the module reprogrammed.

Probably the tank is rusted out. Those are so jammed up in there its hard to see anything to figure out where exactly it rusted out, but that's the only reason I can think of that you would see gas dumping out on the drivers side. I'm not aware of a source for a new tank other than a dealer which will be $$$. Your best option is to find a used tank with less rust. Try searching Car-part.com for parts yards near you. You could try a local pick-n-pull type yard where you can pull it yourself. Problem with most of those is they punch a hole in the tank to drain it when the car comes in.

Must be nice to live close enough to work to be able to walk there! A timing job on these is pretty simple. If you have the time and don't need the car back ASAP get it towed home and pull the covers off and see how far it jumped. Its easy enough to hang a new belt on it and start it to see if it runs. I would do that first before pulling the heads off.

Two times when this happens. 1. Fluid is too low 2. Trans is toast The first can also cause the second

Yeah the manual says use special tool this and that and these others but none of them are really required. The bolts can be broken loose by wrapping an old timing belt or leather strap around the pulley, then wrap the other end around the crank sprocket and hold it, then give a sharp tug on a breaker bar to crack it loose. If you're having the heads machined its a good idea to remove the cam and rocker assembly so that the shavings from the machining can be thoroughly cleaned from the head. Sometimes the shavings can get into the oil passages and can cause damage to the cam if not removed.

Put an anti-fouler on the sensor and it won't pop a code.

the 25d heads will flow better and make more power on the top end. I wonder how a similar block build would perform on the bottom end with 2.2 heads since the smaller ports help with bottom end torque.

It's pretty straightforward once the driveshaft is off. Notchy or sandy sounds when spinning the center bearing would indicate that its bad. The u joints you can check with it still on the car. Try to twist the yoke opposite of the tube to see if there is any play. It helps to have a couple of large channel lock pliers.

Probably be a bad u-joint in the driveshaft. The u joints on these are tiny and don't exhibit much play when they fail, but they make a hell of a racket. The center support bushing will move around quite a bit but it's not easy to test the actual bearing without removing the driveshaft.

If the main fusible link blows you will get a no-crank situation since that's what supplies power to the ignition switch. You would have basically no electrical power at all inside the car. The coil, fuel pump, and ECU and TCU all get power through fuse 16 in the dash fuse panel. Double check the fuses there.

I remember when Saab introduced the 9-2x they sent an SSM scanner to our service dept. (I used to work at the local Saab dealer) I think it got used twice in 5 years. Every other new Saab used the Tech2 scanner. If you want to do some work a Megasquirt can be bought for about $300, but you pretty much have to set everything up yourself and do the tuning yourself. The best option for a tune is to find a shop that specializes in Subaru tuning and get them to tune it. You might spend $500-1000 but you get a tune from someone who's familiar with the system and can dyno the car to get the most out of it.

It would just blow a fuse. Have you checked all of those? Be sure to check the ones under the hood too.

Not always. MAF failures for the 95-96 years are becoming more common. If you're adventurous you can pop the cap off the sensor housing and try resoldering the joints where the pins from the connector join the pins coming off the PCB.

The later Saab CAN stuff is all GM so there are a lot of cars that use the same software. Older stuff maybe not, but I'm sure the older stuff is similar to other European makers. Bosch's xx-Tronic systems and such.

I had that problem with a key from Lowes. I had to modify it a bit because the crappy machine they use didn't cut it right. I get all my keys from a local locksmith now and they always work perfect.

90 has an odd Air control valve that's kind of flaky and they're known to fail. Check the injector plug to make sure it's plugged in all the way first. Also check for dirt/corrosion inside the plug. A bad injector will change the way the engine runs and throw off idle control feedback to the ECU, so figure out the injector first then move on to other things. Cylinder layout: 3-|-4 1-|-2 Front of car The evap solenoid isn't really necessary (make that a low priority) but if you want the light out pop a used one on it and that should be taken care of.