Fairtax4me

You need to measure the diameter of the rear sway bar to find out what size you have to order the correct size bushing. The end links are a ball-joint style on the 2000 and up cars. Look up the parts on a parts store website like Rockauto. eBay can be hit or miss for car parts unless you know exactly what you're looking for.

The only reason I brought up adjusting the MC pushrod is to make sure the MC piston is able to return all the way to the back of the bore. If the pushrod is adjusted so there is very little thread inside the U-bracket, that could start pushing the MC piston forward, which could cause it block the vent port in the MC. There's almost no way you'll get it to bleed properly if the vent port is blocked. As for pedal free-play, there is no adjustment. The pushrod adjusts pedal height, which will change the pedal height at the release point of the clutch. If you adjust the pushrod to its longest point (least amount of thread in the u-bracket. This will raise the standing height of the pedal) this will allow more pedal TRAVEL, which will in turn increase slave cylinder travel by a small amount, but adjusting this too far can cause the vent port in the MC to be blocked. There is no adjustment on the slave cylinder that I'm aware of. Like Gloyale said, the slave cylinder pushrod should extend roughly 3/4" when the pedal is pushed down. If you have at least that much travel at the slave cylinder, the problem is not a hydraulic issue.

Any bolt extractor set I've ever used on rounded heads just rounds them even more. These especially since they have a flange head, the extractor can't go on far enough to get the proper bite. The best option is probably to hammer on the next smaller size 12 point socket. A torch is no good in that area because the heat may damage the wheel bearing or cook the axle boot. You can replace the bolts with grade 8 metric bolts from the hardware store if they carry them in the proper length. More than likely you'll need to get some spare bolts from a junkyard.

If this car is like the old ones the ABS control module (computer) is under the passenger front seat... But it should be somewhat water resistant. If you poured a whole 5 gallon bucket in the floorboard that may be an issue. The pin that needs to be grounded changed a few times over the years IIRC. How many wires are in the plug? Try grounding one at a time and see if the ABS codes start flashing.

Try adjusting the clutch cable a bit tighter.

That sounds like a major head gasket leak.

That's normal. There should be NO pressure in the hydraulic lines until you start pushing the pedal. If you are unable to press the slave cylinder pushrod back into the cylinder, that's because the vent port in the master cylinder is blocked. This would become a major problem as the fluid heats up. Brake fluid does expand a bit when it gets hot, and the expansion of the fluid would cause the slave cylinder to start pushing against the release fork, thus making the clutch start to slip. The vent port in the MC allows fluid to be released back into the MC reservoir, to avoid pressure buildup in the system. When you press the pedal, the MC piston moves over and covers the vent port, then the pressure builds and fluid is moved through the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder. By pushing the slave cylinder pushrod in, you're just forcing fluid backwards through the MC and up into the reservoir. The Slave cylinder should not apply pressure to the fork when you are not pushing on the pedal. Pressure against the fork causes the TOB to engage the pressure plate and will cause the TOB to spin constantly, which will overheat and wear out the bearing. Normally there should be some heavy grease on the end of the SC pushrod where it meets the socket on the release fork to keep it from jiggling or rattling. I still think the release fork may be to blame here. The release forks on these have roughly a 2:1 ratio. I.E: An inch of travel at the Top equates to a half inch at the Bottom. IIRC the Hydraulic clutches have a closer ratio than that since the fork is shorter in length than the old cable systems. Probably closer to 1.5:1 ratio. But you'll only see about 3/8" of travel at most at the pressure plate end of the fork, since that's all that's required to fully release the clutch. Seeing the fork flex would be difficult since less than 1/8" of flex is enough to make the difference between full release and partial release of the clutch. You can certainly can try a longer pushrod. Just don't make it so long that it bottoms the slave cylinder piston against the back of the cylinder. Did you happen to keep the old slave cylinder? You might try comparing the pushrod on that cylinder to the new one.

This happens sometimes when trailer hitch wiring gets corroded. Could also be a corroded ground connection. The ground for the rear lights is behind the trim in the right rear quarter panel area. If the lights on the hatch are staying on, that could be due to broken wiring where it bends to go from the body to the hatch inside /near the rubber flex boot deal.

This is a 2.2 vs 2.5 deal. Only difference between a 2.2 and 2.5 clutch is the pressure plate. The 2.5 pressure plate has a higher clamp force to deal with the higher power output of the 2.5. The pressure plates actually even look very similar, but the 2.5 pressure plate has a stronger spring. TOB and clutch disc will be the same. The turbo models have the different TOB and on those the pressure plate is different to match that. All of the NON-turbo cars use the same TOB, regardless of engine. . The 2.2 flywheel should bolt on fine, there may be a difference in outside diameter compared to the 2.5 flywheel, so you may need to use a 2.2 starter. Compare the flywheels next to each other before putting the new one in.

I think I may know what's going on here. The older cars are starting to have problems with the MAF sensors. A solder joint cracks in the sensor and the sensor signal drops out intermittently. It usually doesn't set a CEL unless it happens 3-4 times in a drive. And even then it may not do it. When the ECU loses the MAF signal it cuts fuel entirely or almost entirely and the engine will flat out stall. If the car is moving this will feel like you turned the key off. Hitting the throttle makes no change, except the more you open it the more the car slows because the engine is sucking in and compressing more air. That compression is not being turned into power because there is no fuel. Everything will still work just the same. No lights (battery charge, oil pressure, ABS, or CEL) will turn on because as far as the car is concerned the engine is still spinning, everything is fine. Tach still reads normally, speedometer still reads normally except for the needles swinging down as engine speed gets lower. All the right signals are still going to the same places, just the engine isn't getting any fuel. After a few seconds the loose connection is remade, the ECU delivers fuel again and the car drives on as normal. See if you can pick up a used MAF sensor from a nearby junkyard (usually under $40) and pop it on and see if the problem goes away.

Slave cylinder. This method pushes most or all of the air and fluid in the slave cylinder out through the open bleeder on the slave while you compress the piston. The the piston sucks fresh fluid through the line and pulls any air out of the line with it. That air is then expelled when you repeat the process. 1. Open bleeder 2. Press slave cylinder pushrod IN and hold 3. Close bleeder 4. Release slave cylinder pushrod If the slave cylinder does NOT have a bleeder, its becomes a bit trickier to bleed properly. Generally you have to completely remove all of the hydraulic lines and the slave cylinder, fill the slave cylinder with fluid, point the opening upwards, attach the line loosely and pour fluid in until it trickles out around the line. Snug the line then cap the other end to keep the fluid in. Fish it all back into the car connected together and attach it to the MC. Then you can pump the slave cylinder a few times to push bubbles at the top end of the line up into the MC and hope they work their way up into the reservoir.

It doesn't hurt to have a guage set IF you plan to do AC work on a lot of cars. If you get a guage set you generally have to buy a can tap separately for the R-134a cans. A guage set certainly isn't necessary to recharge a system though. You can buy one of the recharge kits at the parts store. Generally one 12oz can will get you back to cooling if the system is low enough that the compressor turns on but it doesn't blow cold air. If the compressor doesn't turn on, you probably need 16-18oz. A 12 oz can will usually do it for the newer systems that only hold 17-19 oz.

That's what I'm not sure about. Why would the Forester airbags be made by a different manufacturer? I kind of wonder if the affected vehicles are only US built vehicles? With the Forester being produced only in Japan, the different supplier might make sense.

Anytime ive replaced these bushings on other cars they're a royal PITA to press into the linkage rods. I always end up using a couple of sockets taped to a vice to shove them into the rod. Find a suitable sized socket to press on the large end of the bushing. Tape the bushing to the socket, tape the socket to the vice jaw. Tape a socket that just slightly larger than the small end of the bushing to the other jaw. Fit the rod over the bushing and hold with one hand, turn the vice with the other hand and "clunk" it pops together. I have tried using pliers, but those usually damage the new bushings. A c-clamp could work but you need about 5 hands to hold everything.

I don't see the Forester in any of the recall lists. Why would those be left out? My GF just bought an 06. I'm wondering if I should unplug the damn things as a preventative measure.

Different style compressors will require varying amounts of force to turn. Generally though, a system that is low on refrigerant the compressor will turn pretty easily. Where-as one that is fully charged will have more resistance. Low refrigerant is the most common culprit. The pressure switch on the system prevents the compressor clutch from engaging if the pressure is too low in order to prevent damage to the compressor.

You either have a huge vacuum leak or the throttle cables are adjusted way too tight. Did you remove just the throttle body? Or the entire manifold?

The pinch joint has nothing to do with the axle. It only clamps around the lower ball joint. Even if you drill the broken bolt out, the ball joints rust into the knuckle and are just as impossible to remove. Remove the axle nut and tap the end of the axle with a hammer a few times and it should start to slide. If it doesn't, then a puller may be needed. Remove the upper strut bolt, and loosen the lower strut bolt and the knuckle will swing out enough to pull the axle out.

If the MC is adjusted too far forward the vent port in the bore may be blocked. Adjust the MC pushrod so it is pulling the pedal forward just slightly, this will ensure the MC piston is pulled all the way to the back of the bore. Crack loose the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Unbolt the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and hold it in your hand so you can push the pushrod by hand back into the cylinder. Open the bleed screw, push the pushrod all the way in and hold it there while you close the bleed screw. Now slowly let the pushrod back out. Do this two or three times. Check/Add fluid to the MC reservoir each time to avoid pulling air back into the MC. Bolt the slave cylinder back to the bellhousing and make sure to tighten the bleed screw down snug. This is the best and quickest way I've found to bleed hydraulic clutches on most cars. It may help to stick a small piece of hose on the end of the bleeder and run the hose into a bottle to avoid making a mess.

These cars will decelerate quite a bit when you take your foot off the throttle compared to other cars. The high final drive ratio combined with relatively high engine speed (~3,000 rpm) gives these a more pronounced engine braking effect than most other cars. But the thing to pay attention to is engine speed. If the engine speed is around 3,000 that's normal for 4th gear. If engine speed is up around 4,500 rpm, that could mean the trans is staying in 3rd gear, and that will cause a much harder deceleration when you take your foot off. The hesitation when accelerating could be due to the trans being stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear, then downshifting to 1st while trying to accelerate. Does the AT TEMP light work? Does it blink 16 times when you start the engine?

2000 will be an EJ 251. Should swap into a 99 Forester just fine. Check the timing spockets since the cam and crank sprockets may be different on the 99 and 2000.

I put a new axle from Napa on my GFs 95 a few months ago and it works pretty well. It has the same style and size cups as a Subaru axle. I don't remember the cost off hand. She works for Carmax so she gets a good discount through Napa.

I flat out refuse to use Monroe. I've used them in the past and was very dissatisfied with the ride quality. I replaced a set of shocks on a volvo and the leaking shocks with 250k miles on them had a better ride than brand the new Monroe's I put on it. I drove the car about a mile, took the Monroes off and returned them to the parts store. A few years later I saw a "How It's Made" video that showed how they build their shocks and struts and what I saw scared me away from the Monroe brand entirely.

I've had this trouble before with the aftermarket roll pins. My solution... Bigger hammer. You do need a good solid purchase on the pin with a large punch, but if you can get a solid hit with a 1.5-2lb hammer it will get the pin past that notch and all the way through. It's definitely easier to use a Subaru roll pin, but sometimes it just isn't feasible to get one. Dealer is too far away, or closed for the weekend and you need the car Monday morning, etc. I've started grabbing them out of junkyard cars. Most of the ones I knock out are cruddy replacements and I just toss them, but the few Subaru ones I find are worth keeping.

That cover sure is trashed! I'd agree it was overheated pretty bad at some point. Someone may have replaced the cover on the other side already. Its a non-interference 2.2 though. Run it naked (no covers). Clean up the crank and slather a bunch of antiseize all over the snout so that sprocket doesn't rust to it again. The words "oil pump gasket" scream "I'm gonna leak". Anaerobic flange sealant is the best stuff for the oil pump. And it doesn't leak. RTV makes little globs that can clog the oil feed passages for the rocker arms and those are very time consuming to remove and tear down just to clean the clog out of them.